Best Malkoff Setup for Emergency Bag???

ash211

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The title says it all. Looking for a light for an emergency pack. I'm looking for a decent amount of light for a loooooong time and was wondering which drop in you guys would suggest. Ultimately I would like to use AA batteries because they are cheap and easy to find but CR 123's are possible too. I'm guessing rechargeables would be out of the question because there probably won't be any power if its a serious enough emergency.

thanks
 

scout24

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Depends on your definition of a decent amount of light... An MD3 body will run 2xAA with a sleeve or wrapped in an index card or two to stop rattle, paired with an M31L in an MD2 head with the high/low ring. This will give you a nice high beam, and a long running low. An MD2 body, head, and high/low ring paired with an M61LL would work nicely for 2x123, too.
 

TMedina

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An M31LL can run on a pair of AAs or a single CR123. A Surefire G3 or a Solarforce 2-cell host with extension can handle two AA primaries.

Personally, I'd opt for a Malkoff M61LLL (if you can still get one), or a Malkoff M61LL -and- a stand-alone AA light.

There are pros and cons either way; I like the idea of an extra light to serve as a backup - something like a Fenix E11 or E21.
 

twl

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I have a different take on it.
I would use an M61 in a 3-cell body.
This allows 3 primary 123 cells, or 2 17500 cells(or 2 18500 cells, if the body is bored), or 2 14500 cells, or 2AA cells.
In all the cases but the 2AA you actually have decent batteries in the light. If you have to put the crappy AA batteries into your precious survival light, then it's the last resort. It will still put out some light, but not as bright as with the real batteries.

BTW, the very first batteries to disappear off the shelves in an emergency situation will be the AA.
There won't be ANY AA batteries available in an emergency. Anywhere.
It's the WORST possible emergency battery choice, and they are the worst batteries you could ever put into your "survival flashlight".
But, you can accommodate them as a last-ditch possibility if you have to, with a 3-cell body and an M61.
It's MUCH better to actually have REAL batteries.
 

Quiksilver

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An emergency bag is a little different from long-term "end of civilization" bag.

Emergency bag should have contingencies to take care of requirements from 1hr to 72hrs and up to 168hrs.

IMO, Surefire G2 + Malkoff M61LL, but carry around an M61 as well.

Battery availability shouldn't be a concern for an emergency up-to-one-week bag, as you should have those batteries on hand already.

Battery availability only becomes a concern in protracted situations when your supply may run out and commercial supply chain is broken.

In that case, you'll want batteries that have the lowest demand. High demand batteries will command a high market/barter price, or may be unavailable altogether.

Low demand batteries will be easier to attain and have lower after-market barter price since few will have a use for them.



Some areas have different battery requirements. I know in mine from previous emergencies, AAA/C/D cells are gone immediately, but there is virtually no demand for CR123, CR2 batteries ... AA demand is rather normal, as most people dont have emergency-related equipment that runs off AA, usually its just TV remotes and clocks and stuff like that for AA.

As a result, I've stockpiled CR123 for personal use, and when they're on sale I buy up some D-cell batteries for barter value. I want to be on the Demand side of CR123s, and the Supply side of D-cells.
 

dss_777

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I've settled for the low output Malkoff dropins in G2L bodies for the cars. Mine are M60LF dropins, but I would be just as happy (or happier) with M61LL dropins instead. Since these are single output lights, I prefer the longer runtime of the LL version, and might even consider the LLL version if that were still available.

Plus, the all Nitrolon lights are more comfortable to hold between your teeth to see when changing a tire... when it's raining... in the dark. Don't ask me how I know that. :(

I prefer CR123 batteries for this application, because they last a very long time stored, won't leak and damage the light. I've just had too many things get ruined by alkaline batteries in auto-destruct mode.

I think a good spotter would be a luxury, but I'd always choose less light and longer run-time if the SHTF. I'm more likely to need the light for close-in work- mostly to see what's in front of me for route finding and working on stuff.

My current EDC choice is an older style MD2 with M61, high/low ring, and delrin ring with pocket clip. Nice balance of throw and run-time, the low level is much more useful than I ever imagined, and couldn't live without it. The batteries do get used up more quickly than I'd like for a true SHTF light, so if I were doing it all over again, I'd run a M61L dropin with high/low ring in MD3 body for max runtime and most versatility in output.

I always carry spare batteries, as well, and love the PowerPax battery holders for that. I also use a short section of bicycle inner-tube with 2 CR123 cells inside that's attached to the light itself. It keeps two backup cells with the light, just in case of rapid bailout/grab-and-go situations.
 

GeoBruin

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Two ways to go:

1) Malkoff MD3 with High/Low Switch and M31. Then get an 18mm to 14mm Delrin spacer from Oveready (or use paper/cardboard or whatever else.) Then get 2 x CR123 dummy cells. Now you're ready for anything. You can take out the spacer and put in the dummy cells to run off a single CR123 in full regulation at full brightness plus the advantage of the low for longer run time. Pull out the dummy cells and put in the spacer and you can run 2 x AA and still get full regulated output and enjoy the benefits of the low mode.

Pros: Full regulated output on CR123 and AAs
Cons: Extra dummy cells to carry around, limited runtime on a single primary before having to change the cell.

2) Malkoff MD3 with High/Low switch and M61. Still need the spacer of your choice but no need for dummy cells. Now you can run 3 x CR123 primaries at full regulated output and still have your low mode, or you can put in your spacer and your AAs and get a lower unregulated output that will still last quite a while. You should still get some light on low but I don't know how much or for how long.

Pros: Full output and big runtime on 3 primaries, no need to carry dummy cells.
Cons: Unregulated on 2 AAs

Both good setups that will make you more well prepared and more flexible than most.
 

fresh eddie fresh

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The LLL's are a good time! If you are looking for something cheap(ish) and reliable, an M61LLL in a 6P with a couple of extra CR123s will give you a decent amount of light for a long time, and also be able to sit around on a shelf or in your car for quite a few years.
 

cland72

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Try this:

Surefire 9P
Malkoff M31LL(L?)
2xCR123 sized dummy cell
AA sleeve

Then you could run 2xAA, or 1xCR123 in a pinch. It would be a battery omnivore.
 

TMedina

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BTW, the very first batteries to disappear off the shelves in an emergency situation will be the AA.
There won't be ANY AA batteries available in an emergency. Anywhere.

This should be highlighted and underlined.

Anyone who has tried to "emergency shop" right before or right after a disaster can tell you with absolute certainty - you would be lucky to find dust on store shelves, never mind anything that might be even remotely construed as useful. This includes every conventional battery type available.

The OP is already thinking ahead and planning out an emergency bag to minimize the "emergency shopping" scenario. Regardless of what flashlight configuration you choose to use, always have options and backup plans.

Your options should always include: a secondary light and "battery awareness". That means extra batteries so you don't have to rely on likely empty shelves and, ideally, the flexibility to use different battery types, depending on what you can find.
 

TMedina

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Try this:

Surefire 9P
Malkoff M31LL(L?)
2xCR123 sized dummy cell
AA sleeve

Then you could run 2xAA, or 1xCR123 in a pinch. It would be a battery omnivore.

Heh. I wonder if Gene could be convinced to do a trial run of M31LLL modules.

I'd pre-order two up front. :hitit:
 

archimedes

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Very interesting thread !

Since many of these hosts are capable of holding 3x primaries (to be long enough for 2x AA), but using "low-voltage" LE's, I'd be concerned about an accidental :poof: from "incorrect" batteries, especially in an actual emergency (lending or borrowing the light, darkness, confusion, stress, etc).

Some of the setups needing "dummy cells" are also potentially an issue.

Whenever I swap around various Malkoffs between hosts, I try to triple-check matching the voltage.

Any special system(s) or ideas for minimizing this risk? Prominent labeling, leaving spacers in place or attached somehow, a reminder placed inside the tube ... would like to hear good ideas :)
 

ash211

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I always planned on having backup lights and extra batteries I just figured AA batteries would be easier to find/savage than cr123's. I also figured it would be cheaper/easier to stock up on AA's but I guess when you figure that AA's have have the energy of cr123's they may not be that cheaper. I guess I should go with a ll or lll M61 with a bunch of cr123's then have a 9p Surefire with an M31ll as a backup with some extra AA's.
 

Kestrel

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An M31L or M31LL in a three-cell SF, as prior posters have noted. Runs well on 1xCR123 or 2xAA. From the M31 thread:
[...] my Malkoff M31W emergency car kit:

M31Setupwtext.jpg


12+ hours of full-bore runtime utilizing both AA and CR123 fuel sources. I did pretty well at keeping the overall cost down, this entire setup was ~$190, not bad IMO. And there is the option of the ubiquitous AA alkaline for further use of this setup away from home.

~12 hours @ ~240 lumens or ~1200 hours @ ~2 lumens (with the 5mm LED DD module). The M31L or M31LL would provide substantially more 'high' runtime, albeit at a reduced output. The two-cell spacer is better than two single-cell spacers to give a better chance of protecting the low-voltage M31 from excessive voltage - it is obviously different than a CR123 in the dark; one cell and the spacer in the three-cell SureFire body is all that's needed.

Edit: Folks really need to keep in mind that a true emergency light needs to be able to run off of single CR123's. The reason is that after 5-10 years of storage, unused CR123's can range from ~80% of capacity down to ~zero capacity. A light that requires 2 CR123's puts you at the mercy of your weakest cell, giving you substandard performance at a minimum and provides a definite safety hazard if a CR123 reverse-charges. You may not have your ZTS battery tester handy in this situation to evaluate which cells have degraded substantially, and you'll be having to troubleshoot your light at the very time you will not have the leisure of being able to do so.

The other aspect of this is that you have the ability to safely utilize 'used' cells. It is an exceedingly poor idea to put used CR123's in series - again, it creates a severe performance issue and a very real safety issue. As the "Long Emergency" plays out, you will find that you have a smaller and smaller stash of new CR123's and a growing pile of used CR123's at varying states of discharge. While these used cells might not be up to the job of powering our modern 'lumen blasters', they can still safely and reliably power a relatively low power 'battery vampire' utility light @ ~5-10 lumens for considerable periods of time, saving your increasingly-valuable new matched-set CR123's for critical emergency duties.

I have been thinking of these aspects for many years now and I believe that the above considerations are critical.
 
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flashy bazook

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I always planned on having backup lights and extra batteries I just figured AA batteries would be easier to find/savage than cr123's. I also figured it would be cheaper/easier to stock up on AA's but I guess when you figure that AA's have have the energy of cr123's they may not be that cheaper. I guess I should go with a ll or lll M61 with a bunch of cr123's then have a 9p Surefire with an M31ll as a backup with some extra AA's.

No no, go back to your first idea. The best option is the M31LL with 2xAA. Gets you at least 5 hours of runtime with Eneloops, or 7+ hours with Alkalines. If you really want lithium batteries, you can still get them in AA format! (the Energizer E2's). So you still have access to the lithium advantages, which include long shelf life, wide range of operating temperatures, and light weight. And they are less "dangerous" than possibly old C123A's.

As to the flashlight body, you can get a 2xAA with VME head from Malkoff, or a FiveMega, or even (high end) a McGizmo 2xAA Ti body with a titanium VME head (the Ti head from Malkoff).

The Malkoff 2xAA is pretty tough, and is great if you are happy with a twisty; it's also almost as small as possible for a 2xAA light. The other two choices are clickies, with the McGizmo having the more reliable tailswitch. The Malkoff VME head is a bit smaller than the FiveMega, so the latter may have a bit more throw. So you got plenty good choices there now.

You get about 60-70 lumen output, which is pretty good for most needs. The M31LLL will have output that will be rather low if you need the flashlight outdoors. With 60+ lumens you can easily get around outdoors.

Avoid the G2 nitrolon variants, it is not tough enough for emergency use, the tailcap is a weak point (think of plastic threads...).
 
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ishmael

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I use M31 and/or M31 LL in a VME 2xAA body and head and an M61NLLLL which is a much nicer light tone than the 61LLL they replaced, in 9p bodies with an extender and an oveready sleeve to allow AAs without rattle though they will function without the sleeve.
 

Darvis

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M31LL or M31L in a 9P length body and here's why (as others have said):

Invest in some dummy cells (2 cr123 spacers and 1 AA spacer)

Now, you can run off of one primary cr123, 2xAA's or even 1xAA...

I usually travel with this rig and 4 M60LL's ready to roll.

When I camp, it's the M31LL and a single AA rig.
 

NotRegulated

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I have also seriously considered options for an emergency light over the years. What has been posted above is very well thought out advice.

You are looking for a light for an emergency pack. Just like in an emergency response bag, you may need to fairly self sufficient for 72+ hours. If you have room, it is also wise to consider additional/ duplicate lights because your primary can be lost or damaged. I base my primary kit on CR123's and lithium AA's. I can carry plenty of batteries with my kit for each.

I also pack two additional lights: one that uses C cell batteries and a light that uses D cell batteries. I don't keep batteries in them. Now you have the ability to use C and D batteries if they come available. I have the Streamlight 33202 ProPolymer 3 C-Cell 10-LED Flashlight and a 2 D-cell Maglite LED for this purpose. I also use these lights for loaners. The Streamlight costs around $30 and the Maglite 2 D cell LED on sale is $15.
 

Tracker II

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For my money, the best emergency set-up may be Gene's upcoming, three-mode, MDC running on a single AA with no dummies or spacers required.

Combine this with a few boxes of Energizer AA primary lithiums having a 15-year shelf-life and you have a true emergency package that you can stash away and forget about any maintenance for a decade or more.
 
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