Oveready Exclusive Malkoff XPG-2 Neutral drop-ins!

I didn't see a topic on these drop-ins in this subforum, so get them on oveready.com while they're hot. 4000kSho, N, NL,NLL, and NLL.

4000k is WAY too warm for my taste.
4500k is my bottom limit for warm, and even that is a bit too warm, but I can tolerate it if I have to.
My favorite Malkoff neutral tint is the XRE-Q5 that they used in the M60. Nice creamy white, and not yellow.

Its a question of approach/philosophy.

Gene started at 5000K and when he got complaints about 'blue in the beam', he changed warmer until the complaints stopped. He settled on 4000K during this process and has stayed with this color since. Other shops are happy with 5000K and avoid complaints about to yellow. We 'split the difference' between yellow and blue by going with 4500K.

In reality, CREE is not as good with color control as Nichia so no CREE based K value will be truly white, especially this soon in the life cycle of a new LED. Go with Nichia for optimum color. Go with CREE for power/lumens.

ElectronGuru said:

Its a question of approach/philosophy.

Gene started at 5000K and when he got complaints about 'blue in the beam', he changed warmer until the complaints stopped. He settled on 4000K during this process and has stayed with this color since. Other shops are happy with 5000K and avoid complaints about to yellow. We 'split the difference' between yellow and blue by going with 4500K.

In reality, CREE is not as good with color control as Nichia so no CREE based K value will be truly white, especially this soon in the life cycle of a new LED. Go with Nichia for optimum color. Go with CREE for power/lumens.

Click to expand...

I know.
It's hard to please everybody with tint.
In most cases, I'm fine with a cool tint, especially if it's clean white like these XPG2 in the new triples.

I have the Neutral XPE Triple in my other light, and I like it. It looks nice on trees and stuff.
But I like the clean white XPG2 better.

I'm firmly in the 3500-4500 camp. Anything higher tends to the green/blue end, lower and you get back to incan tints which can have their uses but in general I like a whiter light.

Either way, more options are always good. Any idea on the lumens rating on each version?

Cerealand said:

Any idea on the lumens rating on each version?

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In the Malkoff Junkie thread Gene posted the following outputs:

M61NSHO 350 Lumens
M61N 300 Lumens
M61NL 160 Lumens
M61NLL 85 Lumens
M61NLLL 60 Lumens

which he said he got on two primaries in a 6P.


I have a quick question tho, are these 4000k or 4500k? Just that the website says 4000 but your post seems to suggest that you asked Gene to make them at 4500-

ElectronGuru said:

Gene started at 5000K and when he got complaints about 'blue in the beam', he changed warmer until the complaints stopped. He settled on 4000K during this process and has stayed with this color since. Other shops are happy with 5000K and avoid complaints about to yellow. We 'split the difference' between yellow and blue by going with 4500K.

Click to expand...

The malkoff M61 XP-G2 appears to be 4000k. The quote below is from the Torchlab H Drop-in thread.

ElectronGuru said:

We're currently delayed by 'perfectionists dilemma'. 4000K XPG2 are available and this is a standard Malkoff neutral so we have neutral Malkoffs. Premium bin 4500K XPG2 (our standard triple neutral) are taking longer to find in quantity than original estimates.

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Sorry for the confusion. We aim for 4500 when buying LEDs for our own projects. These are made at our request but are made to Genes specifications.

M61Ns are made with 4000K XPG2 LEDs.

M61N sold out...more inbound?

How did I miss those? *is there an ETA? how about a N-HO model?*

We are working to restock and may have more of the main model by the weekend. As the XPG2 is more efficient, we are also doing the first ever LLLL model. Other models may follow.

HO and SHO have the same boards and power levels, just different LEDs:

HO - XPG
SHO - XPG2

So there's no way to make an XPG2 HO at the standard power levels.

ElectronGuru said:

We are working to restock and may have more of the main model by the weekend. As the XPG2 is more efficient, we are also doing the first ever LLLL model. Other models may follow.

HO and SHO have the same boards and power levels, just different LEDs:

HO - XPG
SHO - XPG2

So there's no way to make an XPG2 HO at the standard power levels.

Click to expand...

What is the LED driven at in the M61N-XPG2? I see it draws only 650ma, but a buck driver is used?

around 1 amp to the led if i remember

N/Apower said:

What is the LED driven at in the M61N-XPG2? I see it draws only 650ma, but a buck driver is used?

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Max for the XPG2 is 1.5a for 488 lumens at the emitter.
I'd suppose that it is somewhere near that.
Neutrals and warms don't use less power, they just have less light output at the same power usage.

The normal configuration for the M61 is two batteries. Buck driver is appropriate.
Forward voltage for the XPG2 is 2.8v.

Great, so this weekend?
I will watch the site, thanks

Shipping is slower this month, pushing them to now

Also available, the first M61NLLLL

ElectronGuru said:

Shipping is slower this month, pushing them to now

Also available, the first M61NLLLL

Click to expand...

Wow, I had literally forgotten about this when I remembered that Christmas is sometime in a week or two and my Dad wanted a new pen-light. I ordered him a 4Sevens Preon with the XPG Neutral tint (limited edition) and that reminded me to check your website. I also ordered an M61N 300L module.

I am hoping to replace the head on my M600C with it. I really like the M61SHO that I bought from Gene a while back, but it just isn't made for 2 CR123's, and I would rather give up a bit of output to get some real run-time out of it as hunting hogs, etc. is also something I will use my SBR for, so we will see. The VME/M600 really is a slick setup. My only regret is that Gene uses brass instead of aluminum. That makes it an ounce or so heavier, and I am not sure why he uses brass vs. aluminum. It would seem aluminum would be better than brass on every front, but this isn't the thread for that. I look forward to my module!

What is the CRI of this module?

N/Apower said:

My only regret is that Gene uses brass instead of aluminum. That makes it an ounce or so heavier, and I am not sure why he uses brass vs. aluminum. It would seem aluminum would be better than brass on every front, but this isn't the thread for that. I look forward to my module!

What is the CRI of this module?

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No, brass is not as conductive as aluminum, but there is something to be said for mass, too. Think of it as extra 'space' to store heat, so it doesn't need a large body to dump into.

I don't have specific CRI values (70-80), but here's a good post on 61N color:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...hread-Part-2&p=4083026&viewfull=1#post4083026

ElectronGuru said:

No, brass is not as conductive as aluminum, but there is something to be said for mass, too. Think of it as extra 'space' to store heat, so it doesn't need a large body to dump into.

I don't have specific CRI values (70-80), but here's a good post on 61N color:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...hread-Part-2&p=4083026&viewfull=1#post4083026

Click to expand...

Certainly a good debate to be had over mass vs. conductivity, but Malkoff underdrives his modules so I don't think it's an issue, either way. I think weight is more the point. Especially for me, who is mounting this on the end of an SBR in a VME head on an M600C weapon light. Ounces lead to pounds. Especially out near the muzzle. Also, nothing would be given up by using aluminum. Nothing that's not academic, anyway.