Convert G2 to 1 x CR123

Does anyone make a plug or something to take up the space? I recently bought a bunch of 3.7v 16340's to use in my G2 w/ a M60 drop in but for some reason it will not work with 2 x 16340's. Using some short pieces of wire I tested the M60 using only one of the 16340's and the output is seemingly as bright as using 2 x surefire 123's. I also tested it with 2 of the 16340's but the light would only flicker on and off. I am just looking for something to fill the space, or maybe a shortened body so I can use just one of the 16340's. Im not concerned with run time because i have PLENTY of spares.

If there is no option to accomplish this what would be a decent inexpensive drop in that would work using 2 x 16340's?

I believe the M60 is rated to 9.0v, so it should work quite well with two rechargeables. There are certain geometric challenges, though. All rechargeable RCR123s are not the same size as primary CR123s.

First, try this. Take the tailcap off. Insert 2 16340s properly. Connect the back of the rear battery to the rear contact in the body (You are replacing the spring and switch). Does it light nicely? If so, you've got a length problem - usually too short. Most people sing the praises of AW's cells for having special magic, and being the right size for most things. That's a $20-ish investment. In the meantime:

Yes, you can make a spacer. It absolutely must NOT be able to short the batteries out. I have heard of success in "stretching" the contact springs so that too-short batteries work well. This can also pull the spring out. Use a knife, slide it into the bottom of the conical spring, and press down. This may help avoid popping the spring out. Using needlenose pliers, GENTLY lift the tip of the spring a little bit (Less than 20% of its length). Did it get longer? Good. Now try it assembled.

A rigid spacer needs:

Cylindrical shape (Stable in battery compartment)
Conductive face and rear (to touch a battery and the spring)
Non-conductive 'rim' (To avoid touching the rest of the flashlight, disabling the 'off' switch)

It's basically like a dime, with a rubber 'tire' added onto the outside. What works? Good luck. And yes, you can use a 1-cell spacer (Conductive battery-sized thing, insulated cylinder wall), or get a 17670 cell (Twice the length of a 16340, a bit more than twice the capacity).

• Fully regulated output between 3.8 and 9.0 volts
• Below 3.8v it drops out of regulation and continues running with gradually declining output

Should run on two rcr123s (16340s) no problem
And definitely you do not want to short out the batteries.

Welcome to CPF Bauer,

I wanted to add, make sure not to run the M60 for long in the G2 since it's not a good host for heat sinking.

The heat from the drop-in has no where to go in that plastic head/body and might damage the drop-in.

THE_dAY said:

Welcome to CPF Bauer,

I wanted to add, make sure not to run the M60 for long in the G2 since it's not a good host for heat sinking.

The heat from the drop-in has no where to go in that plastic head/body and might damage the drop-in.

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This is the same reason why Surefire ran their LED at such a low amperage for this light. I've ran it hard at 1.4a on 8.4v back then. It took a crap 2 weeks later and the metal tube burned its surrounding plastics. I do not have the light anymore as it gave me too much trouble and sold it for $20 back then.

AnAppleSnail said:

First, try this. Take the tailcap off. Insert 2 16340s properly. Connect the back of the rear battery to the rear contact in the body (You are replacing the spring and switch). Does it light nicely? If so, you've got a length problem - usually too short. Most people sing the praises of AW's cells for having special magic, and being the right size for most things.

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Wouldn't a battery stack that's too long cause the same symptoms as a battery stack that's too short? The thinking is that if the battery stack is too long it'll prevent the contact in the tail cap from making solid contact with the end of the body and the result is flickering.

Give this a try: drop in two CR123a primaries then note the amount of space left between the top of the battery and the end of the body. Swap two RCRs in there and do the same. Is there more space between the end of the battery stack and the end of the body or less? If more then stretching the springs or adding a spacer at the end of the body tube, always at the negative end, should do the trick. If less then things get complicated.

Bauer said:

Does anyone make a plug or something to take up the space?

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yes, AW makes them, not cheap but well made. Lighthound had them last I remember, runs about $5 before shipping.

The rcr's seem to fill the body the same as the surefire 123's. I know the M60 is supposed to be able to handle 2 of the rcr's but for some reason it just wont. It's not because they don't fit because I tried just using wire's to connect the batteries to the M60 and it just flickers once then nothing, just like it does in the flashlight.

I tried the rcr's in a cheap utg el-228 and they work fine (not sure what safe voltage for the light is though) I'm thinking that my M60 is somewhat defective.

You can buy a dummy battery from AW or make one on your own. It's more satisfying to make it on your own. Took me about 30min to prepare one and 1 minute to forget all about it once it goes into a customer's light.

This solution would definitely be way more cool.

Thats pretty sweet but I'm not sure i want to cut it down. Unfortunately lighthound is sold out of the AW 123 spacers, not really sure where to begin with making my own. Any ideas?

Bauer said:

Thats pretty sweet but I'm not sure i want to cut it down. Unfortunately lighthound is sold out of the AW 123 spacers, not really sure where to begin with making my own. Any ideas?

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You can drop by a local machine shop and bring in a few inch of aluminum...Ask them to see how much they'll charge you to make one for you. If it's $5.00 or below, you're set. Just make sure you give them the exact dimensions you want.

Mines I made was 16.3mm long, 34.3mm diameter, the nipple is 5mm in diameter and 3.6mm long.

Bauer said:

Thats pretty sweet but I'm not sure i want to cut it down. Unfortunately lighthound is sold out of the AW 123 spacers, not really sure where to begin with making my own. Any ideas?

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http://www.batteryjunction.com/dummy-cr123a.html

and i think Aw sells some too.

AWs are heatshrunk aluminum slugs that costs $5 before shipping, I'd probably stay with BJ's unless you are doing something that draws uber high currents