Fenix TK22 for home defense shotgun?

dwburke811

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My current HD gun is a Glock 26(recently got a Gen 4 26 and now keep my "old" 26 in the top drawer of my night stand as a "full time" HD gun); I've been dropping hints that I wanted to get a shotgun and last night my girlfriend asked for a model number, so hopefully they'll be one under the tree. If there isn't I'm still going to get one for myself in January. Going to go to the store tomorrow to finalize my decision, but fairly sure I'm just going to start with a 870 with a 18" barrel and build "my" ultimate HD gun. I'm not worried about having every accessory right out of the gate, but do want to put a light on it before I even load it for the first time.

Is a TK22 up to the task of being mounted on a shotgun, and working 100%, 100% of the time? Hopefully it will never be used, but if it ever is it has to be perfect. I would most likely get the remote switch for it at the same time.

Thanks, I'm really looking forward to getting it and going to the range with 250 rounds; my body might not like it too much, but I love getting and learning "new" guns, even if they're old (my favorite will always be when my dad gave me his S&W Model 36 on my 21st birthday; honestly don't like the gun, but still).
 

kj2

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It has springs at both ends, Fenix gun mount fits and a remote switch can be added. Should be working fine :)
 

Overclocker

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It has springs at both ends, Fenix gun mount fits and a remote switch can be added. Should be working fine :)

spring on + end isn't strong enough to cushion the battery upon shotgun recoil. will bottom out and battery will hammer the circuit board

for shotgun i'd go with a 4sevens maelstrom G5 or X7. battery isn't "floating" on springs, so no hammering effect. also no circuit board right in front the battery so the forward momentum of the battery is absorbed by a plastic structure
 

Vortus

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Be about $100 more, but an elzetta is designed for it. Made using only Malkoff and primaries its 100% functional 100% of the time. Can order exactly set up how you want it.
 

american

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Just dont practice with the light attached it will hold together for a few shots if you ever need it

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
 

Patriot

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I'm with Overclocker on this one.

I'm sitting here looking at the TK22 and thinking to myself "man... I just don't think I'd put this on any of my shotguns, even a semi-auto one."

This isn't to say that it wouldn't hold up for quite some time, it's just that when I spend money on a weaponlight, I want it to be a dedicated weaponlight design that's been demonstrated over time to work in that roll.

If you used CR123's and wrapped them with a little masking tape or used them in a plastic sleeve, the effects of battery mass acting upon the springs could be greatly reduced but to me, that's a finicky solution.

My thoughts would be to get a TK22 for your nightstand and a weaponlight for your shotgun.
 

dwburke811

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I want to get something that I can put on with a lithium primary and more or less have it become part of the gun. Even though in reality it probably wouldn't make a difference I don't want to get used to handling it w/o the light when I'm (hopefully never) going to be using it with the light when I'm half asleep. I guess it's going to be a SureFire or the like.

Also looking into the Marine Magnum 870; FL is humid, depending where I'm at I'm either on the ocean, 1/2 a mile or 5 miles from the water, and honestly I just like the way the Ni looks. The price hurts, but of all the things I waste money on why not spend some here.
 

dss_777

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I'd suggest a single level light with a rear clicky. I'm uncomfortable with multi-level/programmable lights for this role. Plus, the Fenix has momentary-only tail switch, and the side-switch would be very ackward to use, assuming the mount doesn't bugger up access to it.

Current hot-ticket weaponlight is the Surefire P2X single level, in my opinion. Similar price, simpler interface and excellent build quality.

Not sure what mounting solution will work with the 870, or how much more that would cost, but this also needs to be taken into consideration. Without rails, good mounts are few, and tend to be expensive.

Whatever you get, keep the light on the gun and train, train , train.

:thumbsup:
 

dwburke811

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There's a few forward grips I've been looking at that have a rail. My only worry is that even with a 18" barrel it might be too big for me; I'm thinking of grabbing some PVC and making a mock up and see how it moves. Not sure why I'm going to bother doing this, because I really want that Marine Magnum now and even if it was hard to move I'll still want it just as bad.
 

SimulatedZero

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Yeah, a shotgun might be pushing it with this light. I've seen videos on youtube where people mounted the TK21 with no problem, but I would be more comfortable with a simple, one mode P60 drop-in with a good host.
 

TMedina

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Shotgun recoil is seriously abusive to flashlights. Whether one shot or the entire tube, you want to be able to count on your light.

For me, at a minimum, a Malkoff drop-in. After that, you can run with your choice of hosts: Surefire, Elzetta, Solarforce, and your choice of mounting options.

If you want to spend the money, you could explore buying a dedicated weapon light, but that's usually more expensive than the "mount+host+drop-in" route.
 

Patriot

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I'd suggest a single level light with a rear clicky. I'm uncomfortable with multi-level/programmable lights for this role. Plus, the Fenix has momentary-only tail switch, and the side-switch would be very ackward to use, assuming the mount doesn't bugger up access to it.


So true...and it's a reminder that what we're talking about is a task light or hand held "tactical" light. Even though I think it's a really nice light the more I use it, it's just not designed for the weaponlight roll.
 

think2x

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spring on + end isn't strong enough to cushion the battery upon shotgun recoil. will bottom out and battery will hammer the circuit board

for shotgun i'd go with a 4sevens maelstrom G5 or X7. battery isn't "floating" on springs, so no hammering effect. also no circuit board right in front the battery so the forward momentum of the battery is absorbed by a plastic structure

I had an Armytek Predator on my Mossberg but the light would flicker just from racking a shell into the chamber. Now I have the G5 and it isn't effected by chambering a shell but I have yet to fire it either.
 

CreeCrazy

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I had a Surefire on my Mossberg 500 for years and it worked 100%, 100% of the time.
 

BurnBrighter

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Thanks, I'm really looking forward to getting it and going to the range with 250 rounds

Please update when you've done this. I'm looking forward to finding out.

And has anyone ever made a light fail on a shotgun like the op might do? I really like the TK22, but I already broke down and picked up a TK75 and (2) PD32ue.
 

ThirstyTurtle

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I never thought about the recoil of a shotgun breaking a flashlight. I leave one of my first flashlights (a 3*aaa Coleman @ ~150 lumens) on my shotgun...

O well, at least I'll see the burglar long enough to get the first shot off, haha.
 

TEEJ

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Yeah, the shotguns can whack a light apart in a worst case scenario. The AR15 is very gentle in comparison for example.

My Klarus XT11 has held up well to pumpgun use though, never an issue. I've had some el cheapo lights I experimented with fall apart under the same stresses though, even heads falling off due to insufficient thread overlaps, etc. Some other lights get hammered by the cell slamming around or the electronics get jarred and boards come loose inside, solder lines crack, etc.

A buddy of mine went through 4 surefires on his though, all replaced under warranty...but the 4th is in a drawer as he doesn't trust it for duty. He went with a Klarus XT11 instead. My SF was fine though, so I guess its a pot luck thing.
 

TMedina

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What the frack? What model of SF did he have mounted? And what kind of shotgun?
 
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