whiskypapa3
Enlightened
Poor Man\'s MagCharger
I added a charging port to a Mag 3D. The center disk covers a 1/4in magnet, the outer ring is the negative contact
The temporary connector (don't have the right spring yet} is held on to the port by a second 1/4in magnet whcih compresses the spring about 1/8in against the negative contact ring.
The magnets are held in small cups made of a short brass tube with a tin plated steel bottom. It is extremely difficult to solder to the magnets as the Curie point is only about 250C and is not very abrupt. An attempt to solder a contact with TIX solder in an oven at 150C reduced the magnets holding force by about half. Brass cups gave the same result, ergo the steel bottoms which act as field extenders. The holding force is about 90% of what two magnets in direct contact are. The contact wires could now be soldered to the cups before the magnets were inserted and super glued in place. The cup was super glued into an insulating ring that just passes through the grounding ring. The other cup was pressed into the end of the plastic connector body.
A 1/2in hole was drilled in the Mag body where the rear end of the switch is and the switch was modified to hold a diode and route the wire to the magnet contact.
The diode was pasted down with epoxy putty and the contact wire connected.
The switch was pushed back into the body and the contact fished out and passed through the grounding ring.
The ring was pressed into the body and the center contact pressed into the ring and cemented with a touch of super glue.
No wires from the tailcap with all the problems they cause and a "factory made" look.
Just add batteries and the charger of your choice...
I added a charging port to a Mag 3D. The center disk covers a 1/4in magnet, the outer ring is the negative contact
The temporary connector (don't have the right spring yet} is held on to the port by a second 1/4in magnet whcih compresses the spring about 1/8in against the negative contact ring.
The magnets are held in small cups made of a short brass tube with a tin plated steel bottom. It is extremely difficult to solder to the magnets as the Curie point is only about 250C and is not very abrupt. An attempt to solder a contact with TIX solder in an oven at 150C reduced the magnets holding force by about half. Brass cups gave the same result, ergo the steel bottoms which act as field extenders. The holding force is about 90% of what two magnets in direct contact are. The contact wires could now be soldered to the cups before the magnets were inserted and super glued in place. The cup was super glued into an insulating ring that just passes through the grounding ring. The other cup was pressed into the end of the plastic connector body.
A 1/2in hole was drilled in the Mag body where the rear end of the switch is and the switch was modified to hold a diode and route the wire to the magnet contact.
The diode was pasted down with epoxy putty and the contact wire connected.
The switch was pushed back into the body and the contact fished out and passed through the grounding ring.
The ring was pressed into the body and the center contact pressed into the ring and cemented with a touch of super glue.
No wires from the tailcap with all the problems they cause and a "factory made" look.
Just add batteries and the charger of your choice...
