Surefire 6P 2001+?

Tiresius

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Sep 19, 2009
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Fresno, CA
Thanks to craig and all the donators, I was able to get a Surefire 6P LED. I was surprised at how his light was in a great shape when it came in. He even started the boring process so I decided to finish up his work. A custom bezel and AR coated lens will be needed to replace the stock lexan one and the crappy plastic retaining ring.

Enough said, I was very happy to get this. However....

After the advanced LED technology, I was surprised that at one point, we thought that this light was bright :D It's so dim now compared to my ET D25LC2.

Here's the light:

IMAG0533_zps030453da.jpg


Noticed the scuff marks on the inside? They are signs of a boring attempt that called to my attention.
IMAG0532_zps1a8e4ec0.jpg


IMAG0534_zpsfef94841.jpg


IMAG0536_zpsb03243f9.jpg
 
Last edited:

enomosiki

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
1,109
When you can afford it, get a Cryos from Oveready or Beefy Head from FiveMega, a high-current switch and a high-powered drop-in. Depending on your setup, you will get a whopper that will blast out anywhere from 1,000 to 2,000 OTF lumens.
 

Tiresius

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Sep 19, 2009
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Fresno, CA
I plan on building a retaining ring and other parts for the McClicky switch I had gotten from a local flashaholic for doing mod to his light. As for the head, I will have to wait. All my time and money is being put into school as it is closing in fast.
 

ElectronGuru

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Aug 18, 2007
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Oregon
That line/ridge inside the tail end is actually from the factory. Unsure of the purpose, buts consistent across all models (p/c/z).
 

yellow

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Oct 31, 2002
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Baden.at
I d guess it was meant to ease inserting batteries ...
(wider diameter thus getting them in goes quicker)
 

Tiresius

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Sep 19, 2009
Messages
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Fresno, CA
That line/ridge inside the tail end is actually from the factory. Unsure of the purpose, buts consistent across all models (p/c/z).

On the head-side, it's actually for their drop-in spring to seat properly. When I did the bore, I noticed that I needed to leave that part on. As a result, I left a 2mm portion of the inside for that specific part. Most drop-in's will not fit once you removed that ridge.

As for the tail-end, it's made so the tail-cap will fit properly? The tail-cap diameter is slightly smaller than the inside of the body.
 

enomosiki

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
1,109
On the head-side, it's actually for their drop-in spring to seat properly. When I did the bore, I noticed that I needed to leave that part on. As a result, I left a 2mm portion of the inside for that specific part. Most drop-in's will not fit once you removed that ridge.

As for the tail-end, it's made so the tail-cap will fit properly? The tail-cap diameter is slightly smaller than the inside of the body.

You are correct. Towards the head, the inner rim is there so that the drop-in or the spring to make proper contact with the tube, so that current can flow.

As for the tail side, the rim is there so that the LOTC can properly function. Without it, the press-for-momentary and twist-for-constant UI wouldn't work.
 

Tiresius

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Sep 19, 2009
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965
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Fresno, CA
The LOTC still works with the light bored at 18.4mm for the 18650 cells. A very very snug fit. Air-tight :D
 

Tiresius

Enlightened
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Sep 19, 2009
Messages
965
Location
Fresno, CA
Hey guys, Just a mechanical question but have you guys bored some surefire lights and noticed the inside is not bored straight? I aligned mines and bored it. The body turned true but the inside bore is slightly off.
 
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