Surefire G2 Nitrolon with DX r5 dropin.

välineurheilija

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So i ordered a Surefire G2 nitrolon from Oveready because i have allways wanted that light.
now i know about the heat problems but i dont want an aluminum head!
my question is will i damage the light with the r5 dropin when it heats up?(i am not worried about damage to the dropin module :devil:)
thanks in advance :)
 

dougie

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I suspect that you may possibly see some blistering to the G2 lens before the Nitrolon bezel sustains damage if the forward temperature were to get too high. The LED module will invariably be damaged by being housed in a G2 Nitrolon bezel and will fail in some way. This speed of the LED's demise is impossible to predict but the only thing which 'might' prolong its life would be to not use the light for more than a few seconds at a time. If this is impractical my suggestion is to get another and more suitable flashlight for your purposes.
 

välineurheilija

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I suspect that you may possibly see some blistering to the G2 lens before the Nitrolon bezel sustains damage if the forward temperature were to get too high. The LED module will invariably be damaged by being housed in a G2 Nitrolon bezel and will fail in some way. This speed of the LED's demise is impossible to predict but the only thing which 'might' prolong its life would be to not use the light for more than a few seconds at a time. If this is impractical my suggestion is to get another and more suitable flashlight for your purposes.
Thanks for your reply.i dont know yet how much i will be using the light when i get it but i dont think the dropin will give any more heat out the front than the original P60.anyway if i have more use for the light i will put the P60 in it or get a lowlumen led dropin when i can afford one.Do you happen to know any cheap lowlumen dropins? :)
 

twl

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In the text for the G2 Nitrolon ad on Oveready, they specify 500ma as the max drive current for the drop-in.
So, if you have a moderately powered XPG drop in that is equvalent to the Malkoff "L" or "LL" drop-ins, that should hold up.

If it is a multi-mode module with a current of over 500ma on high, then you must use that high mode only for bursts, so that you don't overheat it. Sustained use of lower modes with lower current drives should be okay.
The concern is about sustained heat from drive current over 500ma, not just a short burst.
 

dougie

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I can't help you with where to find low lumen modules for your light but would suggest that you either save up for a Malkoff unit or try to find one second hand on the market place. At the end of the day if preserving the G2 in its original form is important to you but you don't want an alloy bezel you can't do better than a Malkoff M60L or LL as it will work a charm without any dramas with overheating either the bezel or module when in prolonged use. Of course there are loads of cheap Chinese made modules out there you could use and some might be OK and others might not but it will be a rather hit and miss affair. However, YMMV.
 

Tana

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Actually, I bought Solarforce XML T6 3-mode driver (says 100-60-30% or something) but I was surprised that it was delivering less than 1A to the LED on high (0.85A at 4.1V, 0.60A at 6.1V and 0.45A at 8.4V, measured at tailcap with Fluke 117, less than an amp to LED with all three battery setups)...

Installed it into my black G2 and using around the house now... I ordered it to use driver for something else and LED for linear driver but figured out it was awesome for nitrolon bodies, even without metal Z44 as high is being used almost - never...

Oh, the driver on it is GREEN from the bottom... it has the same appearance as 0.8-4.2V XPG 3-mode driver only not red but green... if it may help to distinguish which module I'm talking about... talking about underdriven XML's... :)
 

välineurheilija

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Actually, I bought Solarforce XML T6 3-mode driver (says 100-60-30% or something) but I was surprised that it was delivering less than 1A to the LED on high (0.85A at 4.1V, 0.60A at 6.1V and 0.45A at 8.4V, measured at tailcap with Fluke 117, less than an amp to LED with all three battery setups)...

Installed it into my black G2 and using around the house now... I ordered it to use driver for something else and LED for linear driver but figured out it was awesome for nitrolon bodies, even without metal Z44 as high is being used almost - never...

Oh, the driver on it is GREEN from the bottom... it has the same appearance as 0.8-4.2V XPG 3-mode driver only not red but green... if it may help to distinguish which module I'm talking about... talking about underdriven XML's... :)
Thanks for the info.i might check some multimode xml from solarforce.i didnt find the one youre talking about,maybe they replaced it with some xml u2 models?
 

välineurheilija

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I measured the dx dropin in a Surefire 6P with Eagletac 16340,s and i got 560 mA draw but it still gets quite hot if its on for longer than 15 minutes :)
 

Tana

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Thanks for the info.i might check some multimode xml from solarforce.i didnt find the one youre talking about,maybe they replaced it with some xml u2 models?

It was some time ago but I believe it's this module:

http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=40&id=430

Only now they only sell two at once... you may wanna check with Jo if you can order only one and if he can confirm if the driver is green... I'm tempted to try to run this on 3xCR123, just to check if it can go above 8.4V but am afraid to burn the driver... and I apologize for misled levels, these ones posted on their site represent current draw I measured much better... :)
 

välineurheilija

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It was some time ago but I believe it's this module:

http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=40&id=430

Only now they only sell two at once... you may wanna check with Jo if you can order only one and if he can confirm if the driver is green... I'm tempted to try to run this on 3xCR123, just to check if it can go above 8.4V but am afraid to burn the driver... and I apologize for misled levels, these ones posted on their site represent current draw I measured much better... :)
Hey i have one of those! :) i tought you meant a green sticker on the module :)
 

Tana

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Hey i have one of those! :) i tought you meant a green sticker on the module :)

If you already have it, then great... If 500mA is safe for XPG for Nitrolon bodies (according to Gene Malkoff who really does his R&D) then 0.8 or 0.9 to XML should be safe as well... maybe I'm wrong in my reasoning but XML has 4x bigger LED base than XPG thus producing less heat than XPG at the same amperages... so if 500mA is on the safe side for XPG, 900mA for XML should be at least at the very limit... :)

So far LOVE mine... I'm thinking actually to shave the LED a little to create more concentrated beam (which with then require to replace SMO reflector with OP to get rid of artifacts) but that's another story... :)
 

välineurheilija

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If you already have it, then great... If 500mA is safe for XPG for Nitrolon bodies (according to Gene Malkoff who really does his R&D) then 0.8 or 0.9 to XML should be safe as well... maybe I'm wrong in my reasoning but XML has 4x bigger LED base than XPG thus producing less heat than XPG at the same amperages... so if 500mA is on the safe side for XPG, 900mA for XML should be at least at the very limit... :)

So far LOVE mine... I'm thinking actually to shave the LED a little to create more concentrated beam (which with then require to replace SMO reflector with OP to get rid of artifacts) but that's another story... :)
I will test how much heat it gives in a 6P full blast and then decide if i can put it in the G2 :)
 

välineurheilija

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Update:I put the DX r5 dropin in the g2 that i received today and ran it for 15 minutes.I took the dropin out and it was hot but not handburning and certainly not plasticmelting :) we will see how the dropin holds up but im liking the nitrolon :)
 

välineurheilija

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Latest update:i have now a yellow G2 with the Solarforce dropin that Tana mentioned (thanks) and i put a Mclicky in there and now i am very happy with the setup.It can run very safely at least 20 minutes on high but i dont even need that power so often :party:
 

johnjohnalmand

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i have a g2 and i just got the aluminum bezel for it. i want it to be crazy bright. i dont know much about measuring a lights intensity except for lumens. i had a surefire 6px defender (200 lumens i think) and loved it. i would like for my g2 to be atleast that bright or brighter! any suggestions?
 

välineurheilija

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i have a g2 and i just got the aluminum bezel for it. i want it to be crazy bright. i dont know much about measuring a lights intensity except for lumens. i had a surefire 6px defender (200 lumens i think) and loved it. i would like for my g2 to be atleast that bright or brighter! any suggestions?
Check out Malkoff devices.I think you can use the M61 module when you have the aluminium head on it,otherwise they recommend not to run for more than 15 minutes in a plastic light.
Edit:i checked it you can use it with the metal head and it has 385 (OTF) lumens.
 
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