Bright Star WorkSafe/Industrial LED Line

http://www.flashlight.com/ <--Check out that URL. Bright Star came out with some LED models for their 2xxx line. I hope that the LED 2618 has a better switch system than the incandescent model's switch system. It should be like the switch mechanism on the 1618 from back in the 1940's-1960's. Those lasted forever and I am sure there are masses of them that are still in good working order. I did a google search for them on other sites. Unfortunately, besides the company's website there were none available online. I hope they are out soon and more importantly that they are AMERICAN MADE. There is also the WorkSafe line that the company website says are coming soon. The 6 Volt Lantern boasts a VERY decent 90 lumens. I hope that these new lights are made domestically. The website says NOW SHIPPING for the 2618 model, but I see no place to order it. I have mixed feelings about this because I can almost assume that the light engines are foreign made, but I hope that I am WRONG. Anyone else know about this?

The Razor models are listed on BrightGuy.


-- 3 x AA alkaline cells

-- Meets ALL known Safety Regulations

-- No LED Regulation

The Razor models have been around for positively 3 years, maybe more. I was referring to the 2618, 2217 and 2224 models. They have been upgraded to LED. This came as much of a shock to me. There is a supply house in my area that I went to today and they are looking up the price and availability for me. I am looking at buying a 2618, just for the hell of it. Also a representative from Bright Star told me they are indeed American made. Hopefully the supply house can special order me one, especially since they have free shipping to their store.

Well the supply house was NOT able to special order me a 2618 LED because they could only purchase them by the case of 24 (or $400 worth.) I DON'T blame them. However, I was able to score one off of Bright Guy for a grand total of $18.25 ($12.25 base price; $6.00 shipping.) Though the shipping was quite high it was almost worth it. I ordered it on the 29th and it arrived at my doorstep on the 31st. Now: The lamp module gives off 40 Lumens and I must admit that the beam is VERY tight. The draw back is that it uses the exact same switch as the incandescent 2618. This switch does NOT last very long. I hadn't even used it for 24 hours and already I need to give it a good shake when I turn it on. They should seriously bring back the switching mechanism that was used on the old 16xx models. About the supply house: It is owned by Motion Industries http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/index.html . I have bought many flashlights from them before and I am quite pleased with their customer service. They have a WIDE selection of industrial-type flashlights. My local branch is Voohrie's Supply. There is a Streamlight SL-20X sitting pretty on the shelf, I have my eyes dead set on it. I like to buy my batteries from them, as well. I bought the batteries for my 2618 LED from them today. I scored 2 D sized Rayovac Industrial Alkalines from them for $1.97 (including tax.) Motion Industries also sells other tools as well, such as Klein. I do NOT work for this company, but I would if I could.

I wouldn't worry about the switching mechanism of the Razor line. With an impact resistance of 1m it should be sturdy enough, and based from the pictures on their page it looks quite accessible and easy to switch on. But looks can be deceiving, so I'm gonna have to test it for myself. All in all though looks like a decent enough light for an LED. Do give us a feedback when you get your hands on one.

lesliemorris85 said:

I wouldn't worry about the switching mechanism of the Razor line. With an impact resistance of 1m it should be sturdy enough, and based from the pictures on their page it looks quite accessible and easy to switch on. But looks can be deceiving, so I'm gonna have to test it for myself. All in all though looks like a decent enough light for an LED. Do give us a feedback when you get your hands on one.

Click to expand...

I am NOT talking about the Razor line. I am talking about the WorkMate 2618 LED. It has a wonderful light engine: 40 lumens for 200 hours on a single set of 2 D size batteries. The slide switch on the other hand is pitiful. I have only been using it since February 1 and it already flickers. It also usually needs a good shake or strike to keep it on if it is moved. The switch system is easily replaceable and I am almost positive Bright Star would send me a new switch (contact strip, screw and slide button) but the thing is that they would have to keep sending me one every few weeks. I have bought two of the incandescent WorkMate 2618s almost three years ago and the switches gave out on me for those two. Back in the 1940s Bright Star came out with the 1618 model flashlight. There are still plenty of them out there that still work. They are on ebay every now and then. They are the "Kel Lite of industrial flashlights" as I call them. I have even owned one, it preformed very well (could kick myself for giving it away.) I wish they would bring back the switch system from the 1618 and put it on their current models, the 2618 and 2618 LED. It would also be nice to have a metal ring on both ends of the light (like in the 1618) and NOT just in the tail end (like the 2618.) It would be nice if someone at Berkshire Hathaway (Koehler-Bright Star's parent company) would read this post and do something to correct this defect. I will be getting the 2217 LED when it becomes available. I have owned the 2217 incandescent for almost three years and it works nicely. WHY? Because it has better switch system. Check out the website http://flashlight.com . Bright Guy is a good place to order flashlights.

ericjohn said:

I am NOT talking about the Razor line. I am talking about the WorkMate 2618 LED. It has a wonderful light engine: 40 lumens for 200 hours on a single set of 2 D size batteries. The slide switch on the other hand is pitiful. I have only been using it since February 1 and it already flickers. It also usually needs a good shake or strike to keep it on if it is moved. The switch system is easily replaceable and I am almost positive Bright Star would send me a new switch (contact strip, screw and slide button) but the thing is that they would have to keep sending me one every few weeks. I have bought two of the incandescent WorkMate 2618s almost three years ago and the switches gave out on me for those two. Back in the 1940s Bright Star came out with the 1618 model flashlight. There are still plenty of them out there that still work. They are on ebay every now and then. They are the "Kel Lite of industrial flashlights" as I call them. I have even owned one, it preformed very well (could kick myself for giving it away.) I wish they would bring back the switch system from the 1618 and put it on their current models, the 2618 and 2618 LED. It would also be nice to have a metal ring on both ends of the light (like in the 1618) and NOT just in the tail end (like the 2618.) It would be nice if someone at Berkshire Hathaway (Koehler-Bright Star's parent company) would read this post and do something to correct this defect. I will be getting the 2217 LED when it becomes available. I have owned the 2217 incandescent for almost three years and it works nicely. WHY? Because it has better switch system. Check out the website http://flashlight.com . Bright Guy is a good place to order flashlights.

Click to expand...

Ah okay, I already see your point.

1) Is the 2618 a resistor and power LED for a long, steady decline to 200 hours,
or, is there some regulation pulling 200 hours out of a pair of "D" cells...?

2) You've also piqued my interest in the 2217 model...what is it about the switch in this model that makes it superior?

3) What LED (company, model) is in the 2618 you bought?

LEDAdd1ct said:

1) Is the 2618 a resistor and power LED for a long, steady decline to 200 hours,
or, is there some regulation pulling 200 hours out of a pair of "D" cells...?

2) You've also piqued my interest in the 2217 model...what is it about the switch in this model that makes it superior?

3) What LED (company, model) is in the 2618 you bought?

Click to expand...

1) I have no idea of the internal circuitry of the LED module, but I think it is pretty damn good to give off 40 lumens for 200 hours. I know that the 2618 flashlights are flimsy as it is, so I didn't want to tamper with it anymore than I had to.

2) The switching mechanism is more permanent, waterproof and has very few moving parts. It is a 3-way switch; Off, Signal and On. When the switch is slid upward, it pushes down on the contact strip and completes the circuit. Same principle as the switch on the G.I. flashlights, but build much better. Made of VERY rugged plastic. I have had my 2217 incandescent for almost 3 years it works pretty decent. Take a look at the 22xx models on Bright Star's website. They are known as the Work Safe Series. There is also the Work Safe 21xx series that have the same switch mechanism as the 2618. Avoid those like the Plague. I learned my lesson from the 2618. Bright Star is letting me exchange my 2618 LED for a 2217 LED which I think is VERY noble of them. The 2217 LED has just as much lumens and the same battery run time as the 2618 LED, plus a much better switch and it is also explosion proof. I am sure it will be a hit in my area once it hits the supply house shelves. We have plenty of oil/gas related operations, many chemical plants, grain elevators and sugar factories in South Louisiana. I don't know of any explosion proof flashlight that has the brightness, run time for this price (I am guessing between $8 and $20.)

3) I don't know, because as I said before; the 2618 is very flimsy and I didn't want to tamper with it any more than I had to. I am sure happy with Bright Star's customer service though. I hope they take my consideration of bringing back the design of the 1618 (search for it on the Flashlight Museum) and put an LED light engine like they have in their current models. That would sure be a hell of a flashlight.

I hope I have been helpful. Even though Bright Star has a poor switch system on thier 21xx and 2618 models, I would still reccomend them. They do have some other lights that are awesome (I would love to get my hands on a Right Angle Responder.) Their customer service is also wonderful and they stand by their products.

LEDAdd1ct said:

1) Is the 2618 a resistor and power LED for a long, steady decline to 200 hours,
or, is there some regulation pulling 200 hours out of a pair of "D" cells...?

Click to expand...

ericjohn said:

...I think it is pretty damn good to give off 40 lumens for 200 hours.

Click to expand...

Thank you for responding.

That is the point of my question—

I am betting dollars to donuts that it is *not* giving 40 lumens for 200 hours.

LEDAdd1ct said:

3) What LED (company, model) is in the 2618 you bought?

Click to expand...

ericjohn said:

1) I have no idea of the internal circuitry of the LED module.

Click to expand...

Could you post a clear picture, or upload, and provide a link to a clear picture of the LED?

There are many members expert at identifying LEDs.

LEDAdd1ct said:

Could you post a clear picture, or upload, and provide a link to a clear picture of the LED?
There are many members expert at identifying LEDs.

Click to expand...

I am exchanging it for a 2217 LED this upcoming Thursday. Sorry and no offense I am NOT going to try and take it apart. NO way in hell do I want to void the warranty.

That is the best image I could get of the LED. I got my light in this past Friday. I refuse to dismantle it because, while it is rugged enough for use on work, taking it apart might do some damage to it. A replacement for it would be hard enogh to find, since they haven't hit the shelves or online retailers yet. I got mine as a special replacement for my 2618 LED that was flickering horribly. This one doesn't flicker at all because it has a solid connection. I got it directly from KBS.

If the image I posted isn't clear enough, then ask customer service exactly what kind of LED is used in there. I would ask, but I figure I've bothered them enough. The email address is [email protected] .

It is easily bright enough (40 Lumens) to illuminate your work detail in any dark, enclosed location. It also claims to run for 200 hours on a set of batteries, but I don't yet know how true that is. This light comforms not only to UL Class 1 Division 1 (Groups A,B,C,D,E,F,G) standards, but UL 913, CSA 222.2, No. 157, Intrinsically Safe and Temparature Code T5. I would be safe to say that it is probably the safest and brightest 2 D explosion proof flashlight. AND: It is American Made! This light easily kicks the Energizer MS2DLED's behind or any other comparable light that I have ever seen or read about.

If you work for a company that deals with potentially explosive materials or an industrial supply house that sell this type of equipment, then suggest to your purchasing department to order a case or two. I am sure they will be a coveted item and don't be surprised if your workers begin to take them home. I believe that they normally cannot be purchased individually, but only in a case of 26.

ericjohn said:

Sorry and no offense I am NOT going to try and take it apart. NO way in hell do I want to void the warranty.

Click to expand...

There is absolutely no need to do so. There are hundreds (thousands?) of photos taken of LEDs on CPF through the glass or plastic lens
which allow one to clearly identify the LED.

The picture you posted is very small.

My email is in my signature.

Would you mind emailing to me a copy of the photo?

If you place your camera an inch in front of the lens and use macro mode,
you can get a very detailed picture which in no way will void the warranty.



Although it is difficult to tell, it appears to be an XP-Something. Can't tell if XP-E or XP-G.

Could you post a photo of the superior switch mechanism?

I just emailed them, so, we will see what they say:

Subject: Bright Star 2217 LED...

Hello! I have some questions.

1) What LED is used in the Bright Star 2217? Cree XP-G, XP-E, etc.?

2) What efficiency bin is used? R3? R4? R5? etc...

3) What tint is used?

4) What type of switch is used?

5) Does the light use a simple resistor, or, a driver circuit?

6) Is the 200 hour output a long, slow, steady decline, or a flat, regulated curve?

I used the LED calculator linked here with the following parameters, assuming a Cree XP-G R5 efficiency bin:

Desired LED Current: 105mA

LED Forward Voltage: 2.790 V

Battery Input Voltage: 3.0 V

Battery Capacity: 16000 mAh
(an Energizer "D" alkaline can supply approximately 16000mAh at 100mA draw)

Converter Efficiency: 90%

Runtime: 147.47 hours

So with intermittent use, 40 lumens is possible for about 148 hours.

7) How have you arrived at the 40 lumens for 200 hours figure?

8) Does this include 148 hours at 200 lumens and decreasing output for the remaining
52 hours? If this is the case, it is still an excellent bargain.

9) I would very much like to purchase one for testing and evaluation, depending on your answers to my questions. Is there a telephone number where I can speak with someone who can help me? I would be proud to support an American business.

~Many thanks,

Flashlight Enthusiast

EDIT: Assuming there is a decent driver in there which can really pull 140+ hours out of a pair of "D" cells, I think we are obligated to swap the LED for an XP-G2 R5 for a few extra lumens...

LEDAdd1ct said:

There is absolutely no need to do so. There are hundreds (thousands?) of photos taken of LEDs on CPF through the glass or plastic lens
which allow one to clearly identify the LED.

The picture you posted is very small.

My email is in my signature.

Would you mind emailing to me a copy of the photo?

If you place your camera an inch in front of the lens and use macro mode,
you can get a very detailed picture which in no way will void the warranty.



Although it is difficult to tell, it appears to be an XP-Something. Can't tell if XP-E or XP-G.

Could you post a photo of the superior switch mechanism?

I just emailed them, so, we will see what they say:

Subject: Bright Star 2217 LED...

Hello! I have some questions.

1) What LED is used in the Bright Star 2217? Cree XP-G, XP-E, etc.?

2) What efficiency bin is used? R3? R4? R5? etc...

3) What tint is used?

4) What type of switch is used?

5) Does the light use a simple resistor, or, a driver circuit?

6) Is the 200 hour output a long, slow, steady decline, or a flat, regulated curve?

I used the LED calculator linked here with the following parameters, assuming a Cree XP-G R5 efficiency bin:

Desired LED Current: 105mA

LED Forward Voltage: 2.790 V

Battery Input Voltage: 3.0 V

Battery Capacity: 16000 mAh
(an Energizer "D" alkaline can supply approximately 16000mAh at 100mA draw)

Converter Efficiency: 90%

Runtime: 147.47 hours

So with intermittent use, 40 lumens is possible for about 148 hours.

7) How have you arrived at the 40 lumens for 200 hours figure?

8) Does this include 148 hours at 200 lumens and decreasing output for the remaining
52 hours? If this is the case, it is still an excellent bargain.

9) I would very much like to purchase one for testing and evaluation, depending on your answers to my questions. Is there a telephone number where I can speak with someone who can help me? I would be proud to support an American business.

~Many thanks,

Flashlight Enthusiast

EDIT: Assuming there is a decent driver in there which can really pull 140+ hours out of a pair of "D" cells, I think we are obligated to swap the LED for an XP-G2 R5 for a few extra lumens...

Click to expand...

I will take a picture of the LED as soon as my wife's digital camera charges and will be more than happy to send it to you.

As for the XP-, I am NOT familiar with the different types of LEDs. The only difference between LEDs is I know there are Nichia, Luxeon and Cree. I am much more familiar with PR incandescents.

I will also be more than happy to send you a picture of the switch mechanism, but I can also easily explain it. It works on a similar principle as the switch on the MX-99x/U and similar lights. The switch is bigger (easier to use,) all plastic (high impact polypropylene, IIRC) and much more rugged. The switch is waterproof and has off/on/signal positions.

Here are several pictures of the switch:











Those 16xx lights, IMHO, are the "Kel Lite of industrial flashlights." Some of these are 70+ years old and still in working order.

Here are some pictures of the vintage 16xx versions:








Unfortunately, those were discontinued decades ago. They pop up on ebay every now and then and sell for around $20-$40 if they are in decent condition. Those in less than good condition sell for much less.

The replacement model to the 16xx was the 26xx. They have a similar switch system, but the former is basically infinitely superior to the latter as far as switch is concerned.



This a picture of their current 2618 LED




I hope that gives you a decent view of the LED, but if not I will give some pictures as soon as my wife's camera charges. I assume the 2618 LED and 2217 LED modules are the same, but I am not sure.

As for the efficiency bin, tint, use of a simple resistor or driver circuit and run time; I have no clue. You will have to ask a KBS design expert for those details.

Here's how to get in touch with them:

Koehler Bright Star
380 Stewart Road
Hanover Twp, PA 18706

800-788-1696

Customer Service:
[email protected]

Sales:
[email protected]

Photos are courtesy of:


Koehler-Bright Star
http://flashlight.com

AND

The Flashlight Museum
http://flashlightmuseum.com

In other words; I do NOT own them!!

I have an earlier rendition of the Bright Star 2224 coming. The switch is metal, not plastic.

ericjohn said:

I will take a picture of the LED as soon as my wife's digital camera charges and will be more than happy to send it to you.

Click to expand...

Awesome!

Fabulous pictures of the switch as well.

ericjohn said:

This a picture of their current 2618 LED

Click to expand...

That photo is great. I am 90% sure that is a Cree XP-G, which means with a high quality driver,
140 hours of regulated runtime is possible.

ericjohn said:

Here's how to get in touch with them...

Click to expand...

Emailed them early this morning and no response back yet...I am patient.

I'll call them the next time my availability aligns with their business hours.

Thanks for all the great information.

To provide a little background on LEDs:

1) Cree has many different products in their line
2) The XP-G is one of the most popular
3) The XP-G2 is the more efficient, "second coming" of the XP-G
4) The XP-G and XP-G2 are rated in terms of how efficient they are in turning electrical energy into light energy
5) Those ratings are graded in bins, such as R2, R3, R4 and R5

Here is a website to play with:

Link

ericjohn, do you have a multimeter handy?

If so, would you be willing to do a quick current test at the tail on the 2217 LED?

This would be the easiest way to see if the claimed 200 hour runtime is bogus...

LEDAdd1ct said:

ericjohn, do you have a multimeter handy?

If so, would you be willing to do a quick current test at the tail on the 2217 LED?

This would be the easiest way to see if the claimed 200 hour runtime is bogus...

Click to expand...

I do not follow you. I have a multimeter but it does not read Amperage (A.K.A. I or current.)

How would I be able to test the tail cap? It is not like some of the bygone KBS flashlights that have a butt plug for hooking up to probes. God that sounds so dirty, but anyway. I am at a total loss on how I would exactly carry this out, so would you be kind enough to further explain?

ericjohn said:

I do not follow you...How would I be able to test the tail cap?

...I am at a total loss on how I would exactly carry this out, so would you be kind enough to further explain?

Click to expand...

I'm sorry; I forgot you were primarily an incandescent guy.

I'll clarify:

In CPF parlance, there are two common ways to measure the current flowing in an LED flashlight.

1) One is "at the emitter" which means the actual current the LED is seeing. This shows, literally, how much current is "at the emitter."

2) The second is "at the tailcap." This measures the current being pulled from the cells. Depending upon what figure you get, this would
give an indication as to whether the quoted runtime is realistic.

3) According to the rough estimates here, to sustain a runtime of around 140 hours, I would expect to see a current draw "at the tailcap" of between 95 and 115 mA. If you get figures far away from that in either direction, then either the runtime, the output, or both are off.

Does that make sense?

I realize you wrote that you do not own a multimeter with the ability to measure current.

If you come across one, I'd love to know.