Zebra SC52 let the modding commence... NOT!

Overclocker · Jan 26, 2013

The good news first. I've found a way to pop off the SS bezel and glass with absolutely ZERO scratches (dremel only for irony):

Now for the very very bad news. The MCPCB is also the PCB for the driver electronics. Which means no easy emitter swaps!!! A pity since I've got XML2 and XPG2 neutrals just begging to be transplanted in

Erik1213 · Jan 26, 2013

If you're careful, you can reflow the XM-L2 LED on the factory MCPCB. I use low temperature solder paste to make it easier to reattach LEDs without damaging nearby components.

Overclocker · Jan 26, 2013

Erik1213 said:
If you're careful, you can reflow the XM-L2 LED on the factory MCPCB. I use low temperature solder paste to make it easier to reattach LEDs without damaging nearby components.

could that be done in situ?

bansuri · Jan 26, 2013

Nice find, overclocker. I was getting antsy waiting for ZL to put out some other tints and was going to dig in to one. At some point the amount of work and potential risk to the light outweigh the benefits of an emitter swap. Hard to tell from the pic, but it doesn't look like the board wants to jump out and be modded. Goo covered board, soldered screws, ugh.
Im sure there are financial and reliability gains to be had by consolidating and streamlining the manufacturing process. The light they make now reflects the lessons learned from previous models, hopefully fewer failures and easier(cheaper) to make.
Suggestion to ZL, release all the tints at once!!! This Cool first, other tints later is a pain.

Swede74 · Jan 26, 2013

Overclocker said:
The good news first. I've found a way to pop off the SS bezel and glass with absolutely ZERO scratches

I hope it wasn't TOO easy - like so easy that it might pop out by itself if stored in the glove box of a car that is driven on bumpy roads, or used as a bike light.

I try not to find flaws on lights that live up to all my expectations and more, like the SC 52 does, but I would have preferred a screw-on bezel, even though I'm not much into modding myself. OK, I admit, I lack the skills.

I think that a poll would show that most flashaholics, even those who never plan to open their lights, would rather have a screw-on bezel than a press fit. I could be wrong though.

Overclocker · Jan 26, 2013

bansuri said:
Nice find, overclocker. I was getting antsy waiting for ZL to put out some other tints and was going to dig in to one. At some point the amount of work and potential risk to the light outweigh the benefits of an emitter swap. Hard to tell from the pic, but it doesn't look like the board wants to jump out and be modded. Goo covered board, soldered screws, ugh.
Im sure there are financial and reliability gains to be had by consolidating and streamlining the manufacturing process. The light they make now reflects the lessons learned from previous models, hopefully fewer failures and easier(cheaper) to make.
Suggestion to ZL, release all the tints at once!!! This Cool first, other tints later is a pain.

yeah seems like a lot of work probably not worth the risk. tint is a perfectly fine cool white anyway, just prefer a 5000K. needless to say i'm not waiting for zebra's 4300K

Overclocker · Jan 26, 2013

Swede74 said:
I hope it wasn't TOO easy - like so easy that it might pop out by itself if stored in the glove box of a car that is driven on bumpy roads, or used as a bike light.

I try not to find flaws on lights that live up to all my expectations and more, like the SC 52 does, but I would have preferred a screw-on bezel, even though I'm not much into modding myself. OK, I admit, I lack the skills.

I think that a poll would show that most flashaholics, even those who never plan to open their lights, would rather have a screw-on bezel than a press fit. I could be wrong though.

don't worry the ring is press fit very well. it's not coming off under normal circumstances.

Erik1213 · Jan 26, 2013

Overclocker said:
could that be done in situ?

Most definitely not. There is way too much heat sinking for you to ever get the board hot enough to desolder the LED.

legtu · Jan 28, 2013

i find it kinda weird that no seems to be interested in knowing how to pop-off a press fitted bezel w/o doing any damage.

anyway, how did you pop-off the bezel? those blobs near the 2 screws, are those solder blobs?

Overclocker · Jan 28, 2013

legtu said:
i find it kinda weird that no seems to be interested in knowing how to pop-off a press fitted bezel w/o doing any damage.

anyway, how did you pop-off the bezel? those blobs near the 2 screws, are those solder blobs?

i could tell you but you'd have to sign an NDA first LOL j/k

PM sent!

yes solder blobs

stp · Jan 28, 2013

Overclocker said:
i could tell you but you'd have to sign an NDA first LOL j/k

PM sent!

yes solder blobs

I would like to know too, pretty please :wave:. Also any chance for macro photo of the not usually visible side of the bezel? My H51 is tempting me to replace the bezel with new threaded one to mount diffuser. I was always scared by the operation to remove the old bezel.

Overclocker · Feb 17, 2013

bansuri · Feb 17, 2013

That's starting to look less like a NOT and more of a MAYBE!
2 blobs at 4:00 for the switch(?), blobs on the 2 screws, and the blob at 11:00 that has a wire coming through the board,(maybe from the + terminal).

Illum · Feb 17, 2013

Integrated LED engines are getting more and more popular these days, one for the ease of assembly and the other for more accurate thermal compensation.

Fireclaw18 · Feb 17, 2013

Illum said:
Integrated LED engines are getting more and more popular these days, one for the ease of assembly and the other for more accurate thermal compensation.

I think another reason is compactness. Having the driver board also contain the LED saves a considerable amount of room in the light. It's not surprising that some of the smallest lights like the SC52 and DQG series use integrated boards. It does suck for us modders though who want to swap in other emitters.

Overclocker · Feb 18, 2013

bansuri said:
That's starting to look less like a NOT and more of a MAYBE!
2 blobs at 4:00 for the switch(?), blobs on the 2 screws, and the blob at 11:00 that has a wire coming through the board,(maybe from the + terminal).

haha oh well the solder blobs shouldn't be too hard to wick off with desoldering braid

the next problem is the board seems to be bonded with that gray stuff, seems to be thermally conductive silicone

and there are probably components on the other side.... which would make hotplate reflowing of the LED practically impossible

i think i should just give this one up. the tint is fine anyway...

carl · Feb 18, 2013

And I thought those stainless bezel rings were threaded on. So even the one on the much larger S6330 is probably pressed on. The bezel ring seems really skinny with very little piloting surface for the press fit - so pressing it on more than once can and may result in a looser press fit the second time around - much less multiple disassembly-reassembly cycles.

How did you get it off?

Are you going to freeze the ring and warm up the housing when you reassemble? Use some lubricant? Or just press everything back together at room-temp?

moshow9 · Feb 18, 2013

carl said:
So even the one on the much larger S6330 is probably pressed on.

Bezel on the S6330 looks to actually be threaded. See vinhnguyen54's post here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...n-the-making&p=4124929&viewfull=1#post4124929

carl · Feb 19, 2013

moshow9 said:
Bezel on the S6330 looks to actually be threaded. See vinhnguyen54's post here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...n-the-making&p=4124929&viewfull=1#post4124929

thanks! That ring does look threaded.

simba · Feb 20, 2013

The only way I know to remove the ZL bezel was to break the lens and pry open it so as to not damage the retain ring.thats how I change my sc60 to a nicha emitter.Really like to find out the innovative method that you use. Thanks

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