Malkoff help...Can I do this???

ThumperACC

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Hi All,

I've been going over the Malkoff site and the Malkoff threads and my head is spinning.

First, a question: How long is the MD2 flashlight with head and clicky (shrouded that can tail stand), with hi/lo ring?

Now on to my desired Malkoff light...I'd like to buy/build the following:
- 1x123 cell tube
- Clicky switch (shrouded tail stand capable)
- Hi/Lo ring
- Malkoff head for M series dropin
- M series dropin (60 series for use with IMR-16340 or 30 series for use with Lithium CR-123)

Is the above do-able??
Am I missing anything??
How long would it be??

Thanks,
ThumperACC
 

cland72

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Not doable with a single 123 light. Your only option is to get the MD2 host for the options you require. The good thing is a M60/61 drop in will accept voltage up to 9v, so you could use 1x18650, 2x123, or 2xrcr123
 
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cland72

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Which options would I have to give up to keep it a single 123 light?

Thanks

hi/lo capability.

You could get a VME head with a single cell Surefire E body, and keep a clicky switch. However, for tail standing you'd have to get a scout or defender-style rear tailcap. You will not have high/lo mode.
 

archimedes

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Could also give up clicky switch and get a McE2S instead for high/low ... usually very hard to find, but one happens to be up in WTT at the moment :)
 

GeoBruin

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I see what you're trying to do here Thumper and you're not alone. Surefire made the 3P and Solarforce makes the L2M which are both single 123 compatible P60 hosts but while both will house a Malkoff drop in, neither permits the use of the Hi/Low switch.

The reality is in the P60 form factor, most people are willing to add the 1 - 1.5 inches to their light to get the ability to run an 18650 or 2 primaries whereby dramatically improving run time. The MD2 is already among the shortest P60 hosts, and I found it much smaller in the hand when it showed up that I had thought looking at it in pictures. Here's a quick shot I took of it with a Sharpie. I measure it at 5 and 1/16th inches.

sIOXtsd.jpg


If it's too big to pocket carry, it's because of the overall size and width of the head, not really because of the length. As much as I would like a single cell Malkoff, I still don't think I could carry it in my pocket. Now the new MDC that's due out any day... well that's a different story :)
 

ThumperACC

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I see what you're trying to do here Thumper and you're not alone. Surefire made the 3P and Solarforce makes the L2M which are both single 123 compatible P60 hosts but while both will house a Malkoff drop in, neither permits the use of the Hi/Low switch.

The reality is in the P60 form factor, most people are willing to add the 1 - 1.5 inches to their light to get the ability to run an 18650 or 2 primaries whereby dramatically improving run time. The MD2 is already among the shortest P60 hosts, and I found it much smaller in the hand when it showed up that I had thought looking at it in pictures. Here's a quick shot I took of it with a Sharpie. I measure it at 5 and 1/16th inches.

sIOXtsd.jpg


If it's too big to pocket carry, it's because of the overall size and width of the head, not really because of the length. As much as I would like a single cell Malkoff, I still don't think I could carry it in my pocket. Now the new MDC that's due out any day... well that's a different story :)

Thank you very much for your answer/insights. Yes, you are close in divining my real intent. See, I have an HDS clicky that is almost perfect. Durable as anything, super efficient, good throw, etc. But...what it lacks is the ability for me to decide the light level before I turn it on. I don't want to click to the level I'm interested in. I can have it come on at max (tactical use) but then for EDC, coming on at max and clicking down to 15 lumens is less convenient than I want (hey, I'm a flashaholic what can I say :D). I can have it come on at 15 lumens (very useful for EDC) but almost useless for tactical use (try clicking on and rapidly going to max without shutting it off or entering brightness setting mode). I also want to have momentary at both max and low.

Nirvana for me would be the Surefire setup with the tailcap that you press for low momentary, press harder for max momentary, turn for low constant on, turn further for max constant on. And even better is this implementation with the control ring where instead of low it is the control ring setting (which surefire has in some of their larger lights like the Invictus I think). But, I want this in a light that is tough and is less than 4 inches. I pocket carry and it winds up horizontal in my pocket and 4" is the max that works in that orientation.

I carry a second control ring light (Jetbeam RRT-01) for ultimate versatility but I'm finding that I don't use the HDS for anything but max brightness and carrying a light for single purpose is not what I am after.

So, a Malkoff with hi/lo with clicky and under 4" would be close enough to what I really want to be useful to me.

Are there options I am missing (even non-Malkoff)?

ThumperACC
 

cland72

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Check out the Surefire U2. It has a control ring selector and click switch, but it is just shy of 6 inches so longer than you prefer.
 

fresh eddie fresh

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The New Surefire EB1 and the older L1 both have the two stage tactical tailcap you mentioned. The tailcap from a Surefire AZ2 is two stage, and compatible with all of the C series bodies.
 

ThumperACC

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The New Surefire EB1 and the older L1 both have the two stage tactical tailcap you mentioned. The tailcap from a Surefire AZ2 is two stage, and compatible with all of the C series bodies.


I've considered the EB1. Love the interface, but 2 things stand out. It can't tailstand (I know I forgot to mention that is important to me as well) and the low is too low. 5 lumens is lower than I'd like. 15 is more like it (I understand the low on a Malkoff is 10-20 which is right where I want to be).

Can you tell me what a C-series body is? I've not heard of this before.

Thanks
 

archimedes

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....Can you tell me what a C-series body is? I've not heard of this before.

Thanks

This term refers to the compatibility between parts on numerous SureFire models, and includes C-series (C2, C3), as well as P (6P, 9P), Z (Z2, Z3), G (G2, G3), and even certain M (M2 only) and L (L5 only) torches ...
 

tjswarbrick

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I don't have my HDS clicky yet, but I thought it was programmable to have it come on in one mode with a quick click and a different mode with a long press. Perhaps it is a double-click and not a long press. With luck I'll find out soon.
Love my SUrefire/M61's, but I usually have another light on me, too.

Sorry - it's not quite on topic, but my EagleTac Ti D25C Clicky does for me what you're looking for:
Rugged (Ti), Reliable (not a problem in nearly a year of daily carry, and a few drops), single 123, bright (I got the XM-L,) - admittedly not the farthest throw - for that, I'd choose the XP-G2. 3 inches long.
I turn off memory mode so it starts in low (~ 20 lumens, I believe) with the head loose (I actually start in moonlight, but usually double-tap to low-medium, because SOMETIMES I do want to start in moonlight.) Or, before turn-on, I can tighten the head to select Turbo. You may want to check it out. No momentary, though.
 

ThumperACC

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I don't have my HDS clicky yet, but I thought it was programmable to have it come on in one mode with a quick click and a different mode with a long press. Perhaps it is a double-click and not a long press.

You are right. It is close to what I want but to achieve that you need to give up momentary. Also this...you have click (say 170 lumens) and click-press/hold (at 15 lumens). But if you go the click-press/hold route you have to put up with the click setting(170 lumens) for ~1/2 second while the flashlight figures out you're not clicking but click-press/holding instead.


Sorry - it's not quite on topic, but my EagleTac Ti D25C Clicky does for me what you're looking for:
Rugged (Ti), Reliable (not a problem in nearly a year of daily carry, and a few drops), single 123, bright (I got the XM-L,) - admittedly not the farthest throw - for that, I'd choose the XP-G2. 3 inches long.
I turn off memory mode so it starts in low (~ 20 lumens, I believe) with the head loose (I actually start in moonlight, but usually double-tap to low-medium, because SOMETIMES I do want to start in moonlight.) Or, before turn-on, I can tighten the head to select Turbo. You may want to check it out. No momentary, though.

I'll have to check this one out again. I've looked before and discounted it for some reason. Momentary is important to me though.

Thanks,
ThumperACC
 
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GeoBruin

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How about a Surefire L1 with a VME head? I understand there might be some slight modification necessary (removing the driver circuit from the E1) but it's doesn't seem that bad and it'll meet all your criteria.
 

tjswarbrick

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You are right. It is close to what I want but to achieve that you need to give up momentary. Also this...you have click (say 170 lumens) and click-press/hold (at 15 lumens). But if you go the click-press/hold route you have to put up with the click setting(170 lumens) for ~1/2 second while the flashlight figures out you're not clicking but click-press/holding instead.

ThumperACC

Thanks for the clarification.
If I understand correctly, this sounds perfect for my use. (YMMV, of course.)
Fast click if/when hi is needed quickly. If I'm in a hurry, lo probably won't be what I'm looking for, so a 1/2 second hold to get there is okay.
I guess I hadn't thought about it taking momentary away - but I don't see how you could implement both, so logically it makes sense.

I backed out of my MD2 purchase, so I can't try it myself. Has anyone tried an MD2 head and Tail on an L2M body? If they fit, could a Malkoff/Elzetta hi/lo ring be integrated with that?
If you have a Malkoff host already, the SolarForce is likely affordable enough to give it a try.
 

MartinDWhite

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You could also buy the MD2 body and have it custom modified to be a "MD1" single CR123A cell length body. Send me an MD2 body and I will shorten and re-thread the tail end for $40 (plus $5 shipping). PM for more details.

PS: If you want to complain about the price (as many have done) remember this is one off custom work. That costs money and time.
 

cland72

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You could also buy the MD2 body and have it custom modified to be a "MD1" single CR123A cell length body. Send me an MD2 body and I will shorten and re-thread the tail end for $40 (plus $5 shipping). PM for more details.

PS: If you want to complain about the price (as many have done) remember this is one off custom work. That costs money and time.

Based on what my friend charges to cut down and rethread barrels, I'd say $45 is a bargain.
 

ThumperACC

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You could also buy the MD2 body and have it custom modified to be a "MD1" single CR123A cell length body. Send me an MD2 body and I will shorten and re-thread the tail end for $40 (plus $5 shipping). PM for more details.

PS: If you want to complain about the price (as many have done) remember this is one off custom work. That costs money and time.

Interesting idea...PM sent.
 
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