What do I need to get started modding?

I want to build my own D26/P60 drop-ins, and swap LEDs on factory lights. What tools and electrical knowledge do I need?

Obviously I need a soldering iron and helping hands, but do I need a DMM? Special pliers to unscrew the pill from the head of lights? That sort of thing.

Are most drivers programmable? For example, can I tell the driver to pull 1A, 1.2A, or 1.4A on high, or am I stuck with whatever I get?

I've read wquiles guide: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257554-Introduction-to-modifying-flashlights
and HJK's guide:http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ds-are-adapted-for-different-battery-voltages

but I didn't see the answers to these questions in there.

First question: Do you plan on building your own stuff from a solid stock? If so, you'll need a lathe machine and/or milling machine. I use a combination of both to achieve the stuff desired.

I usually use a fine neeled nose plier to remove most of the things.

Drivers are often preset with modes so you'll need to select the right one. IE: Input voltage min/max, amperage, modes.

To swap emitters, all you need is an exacto knife to pry the mpcb off the pill. Sometimes they're epoxied so you'll need to put some muscle into it. Before doing any type of swaps, go to the manufacturer's website and look up the spec sheet of the new emitter you're going to do. Make sure the current setup will not exceed the recommended specs.

I'll give you a huge tip on soldering. Always apply flux to the area to be solder (wires, joints). With enough heat, it'll absorb the solder on easier and give a cleaner weld.

I'm not planning to produce my own flashlight bodies. I have a Maratac AA Stainless Steel that has hideous violet tint, and I'd like to swap in a Neutral or HCRI emitter and install a 2-mode driver like the current gen lights.

My motivation is to improve the tint and/or output of lights I already own, and build up some drop-ins when I want to upgrade emitters or try something new in my P60 host.

a heatgun is quite useful for doing swaps on heads that are a nuisance to come off. Some folks boil the glue off but I prefer to avoid the hassle of looking for an o-ring to replace the original one. Solder iron, Solder (rosin core), flux to speed up the soldering process and avoid burning components, vice to hold the work down and a pair of steady hands

A micrometer is the most useful tool to have as a modder. It'll help you determine the size in diameter, thickness and dept of the parts you need to replace. You cannot go buying any parts and try to fit them without measuring the dimensions of the ones you already have.

I second a micrometer, you'll never know how much you needed it until you have one. A DMM is also an absolute must.

Almost all drivers you pull are not adjustable. very few are. The programmable ones cost many times more than static ones.

If you want to make drop ins then you need a lathe, no way around that.

Another way to swap emitters is a hot pan (read: search reflow soldering).

I would recommend skipping the soldering iron, adding a few bucks, and getting soldering station. What temperature works with one solder and emitter wont work with another. The soldering station giver you the ability to work on them all with one unit instead of a dozen. Also before you solder an emitter go the website and look at the spec sheet. There it will tell you what the maximum temperature is and how long it can be there. Along with voltage and amperage and so on.

Tiresius said:

a heatgun is quite useful for doing swaps on heads that are a nuisance to come off. Some folks boil the glue off but I prefer to avoid the hassle of looking for an o-ring to replace the original one. Solder iron, Solder (rosin core), flux to speed up the soldering process and avoid burning components, vice to hold the work down and PATIE​NCE

A micrometer is the most useful tool to have as a modder. It'll help you determine the size in diameter, thickness and dept of the parts you need to replace. You cannot go buying any parts and try to fit them without measuring the dimensions of the ones you already have.

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Fixed!

Enjoy the modding, have fun with it. Once you get started you'll be hooked! And then you will be spending more money on parts than whole lights would cost.

Edit - Apologies for the 3 posts.

Thanks for the tips. None of it seems too difficult, but I'll want to practice I'm sure.

About the driver current, I'm confused by this statement on vinhnguyen54's P60 sales page: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ns-All-Copper-Bonded-PCBs-even-XP-G2s-MT-G2-)

Section 2) Current/Amp Choice

• I can set the circuit driver from 380mA -5,840mA

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It sounds like he can program his drivers to pull current in multiples of 380mA, or am I misunderstanding something here?

Yes, he is assembling his drivers. Each AMC7135 chip provides 380mA of current. The more chips, the more current. What I was referring to before were lights you take apart. Most drivers you take out are set and that's that.

I have the Weller WES51 station, you should take a look at it. I thought about the WESD51 but for almost twice the price the only thing the differs is the readout and maybe a watt or two of accuracy. Save the 70$ and buy your parts or another light to work on.

Let me warn you, once you start... you can't stop. Modding lights is like pringles!!

A magnifying lens/lamp is highly recommended if you plan on soldering LEDs and drivers.