Fenix PD 32 UE Issue

last month, I got the PD 32 UE and fell in love with it. It is perfect for reading. As some may recall, the on/off switch gave me trouble and people here talked me through changing it, but in the end, I returned it.

I missed having it and purchased another this week. After a few days, the same issue has arisen: the on/off switch works intermittently, or, it only works in holding down the button.

I purchased it, with the 10% discount from Long Horn Tactical (same place I got the TM 26), who provide excellent customer service, and will readily refund.

I posted here in case anyone else has an issue.

I did try changing batteries, but to no avail, and have found it to be an intermittent problem; not consistently giving me trouble. I used good batteries and when it was not working properly, it did not respond to various other batteries. A half hour later, it was fine again.

Longhorn said that they have not had any issues, nor have heard of any from customers.

Perhaps I have just been unlucky.

I love the design and I love the diffuser cap's perfect fit, and soft reading light. It is a great EDC and all purpose house light.

Check if the head is fully tightened. Also try tightening the silver retaining ring which holds the switch in the tailcap.

I think it was exactly what happened with my PD32UE a few days ago. Short after that the retaining ring in the tailcap came loose, and then I cannot get it on place again. I think I need a tool for that. Tried with my Quark tool but it's too small size...

I did do the tightening...on both models.

I think something may be wrong in production, which is why I posted.

When it arrives back at Longhorn Tactical this week, they will put a battery in and see it is working fine. This is the tough part as the problem is intermittent only.

Doesn't a forceps work?
Or fine needlenose pliers.
Or maybe a modded fork?

same. i use medical forceps.

yes the pd32ue is a blinding great light, but same sadly cos the button went all flimsy loose on me. i wasnt impressed after just several weeks.

i tightened it some few times too as well. the button feels too cheap now it seems. and now, for their next new out pd32g2, they are using blister packs which saves cost, so obviously quality somewhere is suffering...its all about profits as usual these days.

i sold it on to someone who had more patience, and so now im moving on, - looking at the ZL SC600wMkII. it seems I have moved away from fenix cos of this really.
i do miss the pd32ue a lot, but i cant take that chance returning again, and again. loved the diffuser.

will try ZL now and hope they are better.

best wishes on that stuff.

GunnarGG said:

Doesn't a forceps work?
Or fine needlenose pliers.
Or maybe a modded fork?

Click to expand...

Hey everyone:

I have a PD32UE as well . . . can blame it (more than anything else) for my recently recurring fascination with flashlights.

I haven't had this issue with the PD32UE, but coincidentally encountered this same problem recently with an EagleTac T20C2 that I've had for quite a long time.

This may not be the issue with the OP, but getting the switch-retaining collar to the point of "I thought it was tight but really wasn't tight" can be quite easy to do, especially when trying to use an "improvised" tool - fork tine, etc. These hidden threads may not be the most cleanly cut things in the world and an improvised tool can apply force at an angle, making a guy think he had things pretty well snugged up when, in fact, they weren't . . . and the parts were basically just binding against each other.

Edit: I should have noted originally: this is not a switch issue, as such. But it might be relevant because, when I encountered it with the T20C2, I would have SWORN that the switch was acting up, based on the way the light was behaving . . . especially the fact that it would sometimes work by holding the switch in.

A "snap ring pliers" is probably the best tool (generic tool, at least) for the task. These usually come in pairs (for "internal" vs. "external" snap rings, either will work for this task) and usually come with several types of interchangeable tips. Unless one has other uses, this is definitely one of those cases where you do NOT need to invest in a quality tool. The pairs I have were purchased eons ago from one of those outfits that stops in town and sells stuff out of a semi-trailer. They wouldn't hold up to much of anything serious, but are definitely adequate for this task and allow a person to apply much more uniform force to the threaded switch holder. After getting my T20C2 "fork tight", I quickly noticed the return of problems . . . digging out the snap ring pliers quickly revealed that I only originally had the "appearance of snugness".

One other odd thought - just something to try for curiosity, if you haven't: the body/battery barrel on the PD32UE is "reversible" - at least it is on mine - in other words, both ends are threaded the same and each end can accept either the head or the tailcap. It might be interesting to try (if you haven't) swapping the head and the tailcap. This reverses the orientation of the pocket clip, so it may not be an acceptable "fix". But if it seems to have an effect, it may help zero in on what might or might not be the problem, something weird like a machining irregularity that is causing the problem. When the head and the tail are "tight", one assumes that the bare (un-anodized) ends of the battery tube are making the necessary contact with the bare metal on this inside of the tailcap and the conductive ring on the driver board in the base of the head, but if the threaded portion of the tube was a bit short (or something else was out of tolerance), this may not be the case. At these points of contact, the difference between an "open" and "closed" electrical path is a pretty thin margin.

Like I said, not sure if these thoughts are on target - but they may be something that could help a person spot the possible problem. I've really found this light to be ideal for many uses, so I can sympathize with difficulties that could result in having to do without it!

Tim

I got mine fixed. First, the switch has to be screwed in counterclockwise. Second, ring-splitter pliers are best, but two ends of a paper clip will work, but it'll need to be tightened beyond that once it's seated.

SeamusORiley said:

last month, I got the PD 32 UE and fell in love with it. It is perfect for reading. As some may recall, the on/off switch gave me trouble and people here talked me through changing it, but in the end, I returned it.

I missed having it and purchased another this week. After a few days, the same issue has arisen: the on/off switch works intermittently, or, it only works in holding down the button.

I purchased it, with the 10% discount from Long Horn Tactical (same place I got the TM 26), who provide excellent customer service, and will readily refund.

I posted here in case anyone else has an issue.

I did try changing batteries, but to no avail, and have found it to be an intermittent problem; not consistently giving me trouble. I used good batteries and when it was not working properly, it did not respond to various other batteries. A half hour later, it was fine again.

Longhorn said that they have not had any issues, nor have heard of any from customers.

Perhaps I have just been unlucky.

I love the design and I love the diffuser cap's perfect fit, and soft reading light. It is a great EDC and all purpose house light.

Click to expand...

jirik_cz said:

Check if the head is fully tightened. Also try tightening the silver retaining ring which holds the switch in the tailcap.

Click to expand...

I tightened mine counterclockwise, and it seated perfectly. Works without fail now.

This was the information I needed! :thumbsup:

Without success I tried to get the retaining ring back after it loosened by itself. Tried with a pair of scissors but without result. Actually I didn't think about that the retaining ring shall be tightened counterclockwise. Recently I tried to get it back and it did without problem. Now I can use PD32UE again!