Can the LOTC be adjusted?

The LOTC on my E1eHA doesn't exactly line up like my E2eHA. What I mean by that is the 2 indents don't match. Could I possibly turn the spring or is this an issue with the threading.

There's a little hole inside the spring that is hex shaped, maybe you can find a hex key that fits and turn that. See what it does and let me know too, cause I haven't been able to fine a hex key that fits that hole.

-YC

That hex screw holds in the metal cap part which holds the spring - I've pulled one of mine apart, after Don told me what the hex key size was (I think it was 3/32", but if you email Don he can probably tell you, I can't remember if thats it)
Beneath that metal cap there is a plastic piece which seems to attach to the rubber boot of the switch. I haven't been able to get that bit out yet..

You can actually just pull the spring out - it is only held in there by compression/friction.

Don has pulled these things completely apart - maybe he'll poke his head in and point us to some nice photos..

Graham

i've always wondered if the indents are milled at a specific location relative to the threads, or are they just milled randomly? i noticed the indent on my M2 tailcap needs to be turned exactly half a turn past the indent on the body to turn on, but my 6P needs about 2/3 of a turn past the indent on the body.

can anyone enlighten me?

My E2 and E2e both work the way I think they are supposed to....line up the dents and the momentary on works, back off a full turn from there and it is locked out, turn in past the dents less than a full turn for constant on. My C3 however was kind of hard to get the momentary to work with the dimples lined up...worked better with it turned at least a quarter turn past then toward full on. I took off the tailcap and basically stretched the spring a little and it seems to work more like it should now but i haven't looked at it close or thought much about whether that makes any sense.

logical: lenghtening the spring should just increase the tension required to turn on the light. the distance the button needs to travel would still stay the same, since the contact points are the lip of the barrel and the rim of the button.

Nihraguk-

Like I said...I hadn't looked at it that close or given it any thought. That makes sense. I'll look at mine at home tonight.

Maybe it seemed to work better for me after because the button had a more positive feel with the longer spring. It seems to be a little wonky/gritty compared to the E2 buttons.