Troubleshooting Needed: Nailbender + 6P

Hey guys,

I've been having issues since I got my Nailbender drop-in, and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I've already talked to Dave many times and we aren't really sure what the issue is. And I'm kind of tired of bothering him.

Basically, when I screw down the back cap on my light (to turn it on), sometimes it comes on fine, but most times it flickers on and either 1) Comes on normal, or 2) Goes to the blinky low-battery mode, even if the batteries are fresh.

Sometimes even if I am clicking the switch between modes it'll all of a sudden drop down into low battery mode, again even with fresh batteries (2xCR123 or 17650...or whatever the size is).

It's just incredibly annoying. I like having 2 lights available, but not when one is unreliable to the point where I am afraid to use it.

Anyone got feedback on what I can do with my multimeter to troubleshoot this?

EDIT: Dave discovered that the issue was lack of thread locker on the threads between the reflector and the pill. Shorts out the light.

Try to wrap the drop in with foil.

glockxj said:

Try to wrap the drop in with foil.

Click to expand...

What would that do?

Ensure the module is getting proper ground to the host

jcw122 said:

What would that do?

Click to expand...

Still happens

Make sure the retaining ring inside the tailcap is screwed, all the way down.

Seems You have an unstable electrical connection.
Do You use the spring that comes with the module?
If not, put it in and try again.
When it works safely You found the problem

When there is no gap between body and bezel remaining, leave it like this.
If there is a gap, cut away parts from the spring and retry ... till there is no gap anymore.
thats just for cosmetics, but ...

wrapping (enclosed sticky tape, or foil) will primarily increase thermal transfer (so do it) but not the connection. Especially not in a host that is anodized inside like an original 6P should be.

A 6p is not anodized inside, and yes foil will help with both heat transfer and a ground to the host.

yellow said:

Seems You have an unstable electrical connection.
Do You use the spring that comes with the module?
If not, put it in and try again.
When it works safely You found the problem

When there is no gap between body and bezel remaining, leave it like this.
If there is a gap, cut away parts from the spring and retry ... till there is no gap anymore.
thats just for cosmetics, but ...

wrapping (enclosed sticky tape, or foil) will primarily increase thermal transfer (so do it) but not the connection. Especially not in a host that is anodized inside like an original 6P should be.

Click to expand...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

ledmitter_nli said:

Make sure the retaining ring inside the tailcap is screwed, all the way down.

Click to expand...

It's a 6P, there is no retaining ring to screw down (unlike my 4Sevens light).

yellow said:

Seems You have an unstable electrical connection.
Do You use the spring that comes with the module?
If not, put it in and try again.
When it works safely You found the problem

When there is no gap between body and bezel remaining, leave it like this.
If there is a gap, cut away parts from the spring and retry ... till there is no gap anymore.
thats just for cosmetics, but ...

wrapping (enclosed sticky tape, or foil) will primarily increase thermal transfer (so do it) but not the connection. Especially not in a host that is anodized inside like an original 6P should be.

Click to expand...

Yes, I am using the spring that came with the module. And yes, the inside is annod.

glockxj said:

A 6p is not anodized inside, and yes foil will help with both heat transfer and a ground to the host.





Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Click to expand...

Mine is annoed inside of the bezel, not inside of the body.

Exactly what part is supposed to contact what other part when acting as the ground? This is incredibly frustrating....I just want a working light!

just because the metal looks metal is not a sign of not being anodized
;-)

inside the body, there is that 1st flat part (smallest diameter) - the seat of the spring.
the insert itself also has a seat for the spring (the big spring that fits over the outside)
so when using the spring it shouldnt be this side of the light/engine and it must be the end cap ...
:thinking:
when You play around with a metal part / a mulitmeter for measuring, instead of the tailcap ... does it happen also, or does it work safely then?


just to be on the safe side here, wipe away any dust/debrits from the end threads and inside the end cap

what end cap do You use? The original 6P screw / momentary push one?

yellow said:

just because the metal looks metal is not a sign of not being anodized
;-)

inside the body, there is that 1st flat part (smallest diameter) - the seat of the spring.
the insert itself also has a seat for the spring (the big spring that fits over the outside)
so when using the spring it shouldnt be this side of the light/engine and it must be the end cap ...
:thinking:
when You play around with a metal part / a mulitmeter for measuring, instead of the tailcap ... does it happen also, or does it work safely then?


just to be on the safe side here, wipe away any dust/debrits from the end threads and inside the end cap

what end cap do You use? The original 6P screw / momentary push one?

Click to expand...

Yes, I'm using the original end cap. I never had any issues when I had the original 6P incan bulb in. I do not think the problem is the end-cap as I used to use a 3nd party (whatever that cheap Chinese brand is) tail cap and had the same issues. The 3rd party cap was a clicky.

If you're using both the outer spring that came with the module (and the inner spring, which is not detachable), and it still has connectivity issues, then you're either screwing the bezel down too tight, or the module is defective and should be returned to Nailbender.

If you use the outer spring, there should be a sizable gap (see pic below).

cland72 said:

If you're using both the outer spring that came with the module (and the inner spring, which is not detachable), and it still has connectivity issues, then you're either screwing the bezel down too tight, or the module is defective and should be returned to Nailbender.

If you use the outer spring, there should be a sizable gap (see pic below).

Click to expand...

Yes, that's what mine looks like. What would be affected by tightening it down too hard? The reflector and the bronze-colored part are very strong. The issue occurs whether it is screwed down tightly or not. And what the heck would the point of having a light be if I can't screw it down to the point where it won't unscrew?

At this point I might just send it back to NB, with my host. Goodness.

jcw122 said:

Yes, that's what mine looks like. What would be affected by tightening it down too hard? The reflector and the bronze-colored part are very strong. The issue occurs whether it is screwed down tightly or not. And what the heck would the point of having a light be if I can't screw it down to the point where it won't unscrew?

At this point I might just send it back to NB, with my host. Goodness.

Click to expand...

Dude, I think you're wound a little too tight about this whole thing. It happens. NB will make it right.

I think the issue may have to do with the 1-2mm of anodizing inside of the drop-in-end of the battery tube. Gonna sand it off and find out!

OK I'm getting closer! Removing the anodizing does help, but it doesn't have any effect without the negative spring because the bezel doesn't put enough pressure on the module to put it down all the way to make enough contact! There's about 1mm gap where you can hear it rattling.

This still doesn't explain why it isn't properly grounding even with the larger spring.

At this point I'm going to send it back and see if Dave can figure it out. Thanks for the help guys.

Too bad you don't have another 6p to see if it's the module or the body.

If you live in So. Cal (LA area) come down to my pad and we diagnose it. Regardless Dave is a great guy to deal with if one of his modules came out bad he will fix/replace it.

BIGLOU said:

If you live in So. Cal (LA area) come down to my pad and we diagnose it. Regardless Dave is a great guy to deal with if one of his modules came out bad he will fix/replace it.

Click to expand...

I'm at the other end of the country But thanks. I'm shipping it to him today.