Where can I buy the official Fulton LED Kit?

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user1016

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I have a few Fulton MX-991/U's lying around, some already have Nite Ize mods in them, but I'm curious to see what Fultons official kit is like. On their website, they have a brochure for a LED Conversion kit:

https://www.fultonindoh.com/store/brochures.html

Does anyone know where I might be able to get one? I've contacted them multiple times but they won't reply to my emails for some reason. I'd call them but I've also never called overseas.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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The promotional material claims 50 lumens at one watt.

Testing for the Cree XM-L2 T6 efficiency bin (link here) shows:

Drive Current: 350mA

LED Forward Voltage: 2.819

2.819v * .350A = 0.98665 watts

This comes to 163.22 for one watt, or, 161 lumens at just 350mA.

The upgrade kit Fulton is selling claims 50 lumens at one watt.

A Cree XM-L2 T6 is therefore three times more efficient.

I am not a math expert, so someone please correct me if I got this wrong.

EDIT: I overshot! The table states that at a drive current of just 100mA,

you are treated to 46.05 lumens, very close to the Fulton's 50 lumens,

but, at 170.87 lumens per watt!

This means:

2.695v * 100mA = 0.2695 watts for 46 lumens, vs. one whole watt for 50 lumens!

Link to Fulton Brochure PDF

That being said, it costs me nothing to make a phone call, and I absolutely love digging around and pulling up information.

I would be happy to phone them for you and post publicly what they say.

So far:

1) What LED are you using?
2) What is the runtime?
3) Where can it be purchased?
4) Do you have any distributors in Australia?
5) Do you ship directly to Australia?
6) How much is the dropin?
7) If you do ship to Australia, how much to do so?

Let me know if you want me to add anything to the list. :)
 
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LEDAdd1ct

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Just called but the person with the answers isn't in yet...will report when I hear back from them...
 
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user1016

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Just called but the person with the answers isn't in yet...will report when I hear back from them...

Awesome, thanks! Very much appreciated. Also just read it further, must the AA battery mod be installed to use it? If so, it might just be what I need.

I just received a clone of the Fulton MX-991/U in the mail which is basically a mini AA version, surprisingly it was already pre-equipped with a LED rather than the usual incandescent globe that cheapies have. Surprisingly, it wasn't just a tiny AA-sized LED, but in fact, one of the largest I've seen. Think of the Nite Ize 10mm LED mod, and add half a centimeter to the tip. It had an enormous LED mod in it which produces a slightly blue-ish light, good hotspot but not much flood, more or less the same power as the Nite Ize mod. Will get beamshots later tonight when it gets dark, but my ipod camera isn't that impressive, I doubt it'd capture it.

Either way, if I can get one of these official Fulton LEDs, I may as well deck the mini "fulton" out with one! I figure if it proves to be reliable, it may make a good, inexpensive EDC light (it fits in my pocket without being obvious, unlike a large heavy bulky Fulton), but I'd love to try modding something more beefy into it some day, again having such a small size and light weight, it feels like it could be turned into a beefy mini light, with the advantage of having a belt clip.

ABPWS6m.jpg

bY6IDUE.jpg


Thanks for the incredibly detailed information too! I have plenty of good spare LED mods, however, call me unusual, but I'm curious in getting one of their LED kits for sake of getting the "authentic/officially made product" you know? It's kind of like my Maglites. I have a few modded ones, but I also wanted to get one that I could fit out with the plain vanilla official Maglite 3 watt LED mod.
 
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LEDAdd1ct

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If you are craving the "official" product, there is certainly nothing wrong with it.

My personal opinion (as voiced above) is that you are leaving lots of lumens/runtime on the table by using their "official" version which, compared to the modern stuff, is woefully obsolete.

With respect to cell size, I can imagine no advantage to the smaller "AA" cells other than less mass, which will (in Earth's gravitational well, which I presume is where you will be using it) result in less weight. :)

Haven't heard back from them yet, but I will post back when I do.

If I don't hear back from them in three to six business days, I'll phone them again.
 

StarHalo

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The NiteIze 10mm drop-in will give you ~60 hours regulated runtime using D cells, which is the only drop-in worth the time/money if you're not going to go with the 140 lumen TerraLux.
 
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user1016

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If you are craving the "official" product, there is certainly nothing wrong with it.

My personal opinion (as voiced above) is that you are leaving lots of lumens/runtime on the table by using their "official" version which, compared to the modern stuff, is woefully obsolete.

With respect to cell size, I can imagine no advantage to the smaller "AA" cells other than less mass, which will (in Earth's gravitational well, which I presume is where you will be using it) result in less weight. :)

Haven't heard back from them yet, but I will post back when I do.

If I don't hear back from them in three to six business days, I'll phone them again.

I'm not very tech-savvy (ie can't build led mods, solder stuff etc) What would make a good drop-in mod with a normal maglite-krypton-bulb-style-flange/size etc. They fit perfectly in the mini fulton. The only thing I'm aware of is that there's no heatsink for this torch, but I'd be keen to try and throw in the most powerful drop-in available.

Also, could you add to the list; does Fulton ship to Australia? They have an "international inquiries" page but again, they don't seem to be receiving or responding to any of my emails. Could you also ask if the N42-4 is still available (a straight blue and white flashlight of theirs, known as a "telecommunications model).

Hope this isn't too much to jot down, but if you're able to ask them, that'd be really swell!

The NiteIze 10mm drop-in will give you ~60 hours regulated runtime using D cells, which is the only drop-in worth the time/money if you're not going to go with the 140 lumen TerraLux.

I'm fond of the 10mm drop in, I have one in my Fulton MX-991/U, however, I have noticed that it has a problem with flickering after a while. I'm not sure what causes this, but it works flawlessly for about 15 minutes, and then begins to develop an arrhythmic flicker, sometimes going out completely for a second and coming back on. Could it be the Fultons lack of a heatsink? I had it on for a very long time during the tornado and blackout we had here a few weeks ago and tested it a few times, finding that it consistently began flickering after being on for 10-15 minutes. The Fulton is brand new so I'm not sure if the Fulton is to blame, it was also sitting completely still at the same time.

Alternatively, would one of these Terralux (tle-6ex?)s work in a Fulton with no heatsink?
 
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StarHalo

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My [incan/stock] Fulton flickers just because the reflector contact is a lousy design, I've never gotten it to work reliably. I'd wager if you put a regulated drop-in in mine, it would exhibit the same behavior.

And I have no idea if the TerraLux requires a heatsink, but you'd only be damaging the LED if it were an issue; it would most likely just dim faster than it's rated lifespan, and you'd have to replace it every couple of years..
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Question list updated with additional questions.

I have a direct link to a sales page where you can purchase the blue and white telecommunications light.

Please email me (please do not PM me as my box fills up, I lose track, and I wind up not seeing the PM) with "Blue and White Fulton" in the subject line. My email is clearly visible in my signature.

I can email you a website where you can purchase the blue and white telecommunications version.
 
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user1016

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My [incan/stock] Fulton flickers just because the reflector contact is a lousy design, I've never gotten it to work reliably. I'd wager if you put a regulated drop-in in mine, it would exhibit the same behavior.

And I have no idea if the TerraLux requires a heatsink, but you'd only be damaging the LED if it were an issue; it would most likely just dim faster than it's rated lifespan, and you'd have to replace it every couple of years..

Fair enough, a LED is easily replaceable, given that the incandescent bulbs blow often anyway, it's not like it'd be unusual to have to replace the LED, but it would give me indication something is wrong.

I'll let you know if I come up with a means of fixing the contacts on the Fulton to work reliably. It appears to only happen with my standard army one, the rest (Telecommunications models etc) work fine.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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There is a seller on e-Bay selling XP-E PR-based LED dropins.

I wrote him/her and asked about getting these updated with XP-G2.

From my research, there is no one out there selling a classic PR-based LED dropin with XP-G2.

For efficiency, this would blow away the Fulton LED Kit and many others.

I will let you know when he/she writes back...
 

ZMZ67

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I'm not very tech-savvy (ie can't build led mods, solder stuff etc) What would make a good drop-in mod with a normal maglite-krypton-bulb-style-flange/size etc. They fit perfectly in the mini fulton. The only thing I'm aware of is that there's no heatsink for this torch, but I'd be keen to try and throw in the most powerful drop-in available.

Also, could you add to the list; does Fulton ship to Australia? They have an "international inquiries" page but again, they don't seem to be receiving or responding to any of my emails. Could you also ask if the N42-4 is still available (a straight blue and white flashlight of theirs, known as a "telecommunications model).

Hope this isn't too much to jot down, but if you're able to ask them, that'd be really swell!



I'm fond of the 10mm drop in, I have one in my Fulton MX-991/U, however, I have noticed that it has a problem with flickering after a while. I'm not sure what causes this, but it works flawlessly for about 15 minutes, and then begins to develop an arrhythmic flicker, sometimes going out completely for a second and coming back on. Could it be the Fultons lack of a heatsink? I had it on for a very long time during the tornado and blackout we had here a few weeks ago and tested it a few times, finding that it consistently began flickering after being on for 10-15 minutes. The Fulton is brand new so I'm not sure if the Fulton is to blame, it was also sitting completely still at the same time.

Alternatively, would one of these Terralux (tle-6ex?)s work in a Fulton with no heatsink?

I have had the same experience with flickering on the Fultons and switch problems as well.Not sure I would invest too much money in upgrading one of these lights.FWIW I have a couple new Fultons that have never really seen any serious use and just tried a couple LED drop-ins.The first,a Dorcy 10mm worked but I found that it started to flicker in short order.The second,a Terralux TLE-6EXB fits in the Fulton but you can't use the plastic bulb retaining ring.The TLE-6EXB is designed for Maglites and has a wider base than the standardPR base.Even though I couldn't use the retaining ring the TLE-6EXB worked fine and seemed to be held solidly in place by the flashlight contact "spring." Interestingly it did not exhibit the same flickering as the 10mm,perhaps making better contact because of it's larger size and lack of the plastic retaining ring.The TLE-6EXB is significantly brighter than the 10mm I tried but it isn't all that impressive compared to typical high powered 3V LED lights.The Maglite that the TLE-6EXB is designed for really doesn't have significant heatsicking itself so I don't think that the lack of heatsinking in the Fulton would be a huge issue. Keep in mind that there are limitations to lights without heatsinking and the Fulton with a TLE-6EXB might not be a very good light to run for long periods of time.Long story short the TLE-6EXB is more "OK" than impressive in the Fulton from my short test but might be worthwhile if you really like the Fulton angle-head.
 
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user1016

Guest
There is a seller on e-Bay selling XP-E PR-based LED dropins.

I wrote him/her and asked about getting these updated with XP-G2.

From my research, there is no one out there selling a classic PR-based LED dropin with XP-G2.

For efficiency, this would blow away the Fulton LED Kit and many others.

I will let you know when he/she writes back...

Thanks very much! Will be interested to hear what they say.

I have had the same experience with flickering on the Fultons and switch problems as well.Not sure I would invest too much money in upgrading one of these lights.FWIW I have a couple new Fultons that have never really seen any serious use and just tried a couple LED drop-ins.The first,a Dorcy 10mm worked but I found that it started to flicker in short order.The second,a Terralux TLE-6EXB fits in the Fulton but you can't use the plastic bulb retaining ring.The TLE-6EXB is designed for Maglites and has a wider base than the standardPR base.Even though I couldn't use the retaining ring the TLE-6EXB worked fine and seemed to be held solidly in place by the flashlight contact "spring." Interestingly it did not exhibit the same flickering as the 10mm,perhaps making better contact because of it's larger size and lack of the plastic retaining ring.The TLE-6EXB is significantly brighter than the 10mm I tried but it isn't all that impressive compared to typical high powered 3V LED lights.The Maglite that the TLE-6EXB is designed for really doesn't have significant heatsicking itself so I don't think that the lack of heatsinking in the Fulton would be a huge issue. Keep in mind that there are limitations to lights without heatsinking and the Fulton with a TLE-6EXB might not be a very good light to run for long periods of time.Long story short the TLE-6EXB is more "OK" than impressive in the Fulton from my short test but might be worthwhile if you really like the Fulton angle-head.

Reliability is my primary goal over brightness, I've been hoping to make a Fulton that is more or less a "survival light", running some kind of mod that is low lumen, but has an extremly good runtime and reliability, for use in such events as long time blackouts. When I need brightness, I have a Mag 3D with a Seoul P7 which does the brightness job just fine :thumbsup:

Thanks for your insights though, I may investigate a TLE-6EXB regardless and see how it goes.
 

LEDAdd1ct

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Reliability is my primary goal over brightness, I've been hoping to make a Fulton that is more or less a "survival light", running some kind of mod that is low lumen, but has an extremly good runtime and reliability, for use in such events as long time blackouts.

I would abandon this light.

The switch is a known source of problems, and it is riveted in place, making it a labor of love to work with.

There are other hosts that can achieve your goal with replacement parts that are much more easily maintained. The body is of very high quality, and to be honest, I pursued the same goal for several weeks.

However, I abandoned it because of the switch.
 

StarHalo

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I've been hoping to make a Fulton that is more or less a "survival light", running some kind of mod that is low lumen, but has an extremly good runtime and reliability

The NiteIze 10mm is the power outage drop-in for sure, but there's always going to be that buggy contact; I would solder a wire between those two contacts to resolve it. The TerraLux is about output over runtime, not a good choice for a distance runner..
 
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user1016

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I would abandon this light.

The switch is a known source of problems, and it is riveted in place, making it a labor of love to work with.

There are other hosts that can achieve your goal with replacement parts that are much more easily maintained. The body is of very high quality, and to be honest, I pursued the same goal for several weeks.

However, I abandoned it because of the switch.

Fair enough. Got any recommendations. I like utility in a light, and the Fulton has plenty (belt clip, angle configuration, able to be stood up and aimed on its own).

The NiteIze 10mm is the power outage drop-in for sure, but there's always going to be that buggy contact; I would solder a wire between those two contacts to resolve it. The TerraLux is about output over runtime, not a good choice for a distance runner..

I might put a high output model in the tailcap for when high brightness situations arise, and keep the 10mm in there for now. As painful as it sounds to work with a Fulton, I think I'll give it a go, nothing to lose from it as I have a few lying around. Thanks for your suggestions! :)
 

sween1911

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Standby for Thread Revival... CLEAR!

Got two Fultons en route from the bay for my kids. I had one when I was a kid (70's-80's). Loved the lenses, the tailstanding and the general utility. My kids already have a fleet of led lights, Mags with LED drop ins and such, but I was getting nostalgic and I knew these would be fun. Following along this (and a few other threads) for tuning tips and tricks. Already planning on grabbing PR drop-ins for them. I remember (one of) my main complaint(s) was the flimsy spring contacts in the head that would get bent out of alignment and lose connectivity. Always thought about some way to solder or otherwise hardwire those to the bulb socket in the reflector. Also now that I think about it, the mod for tailcap resistance commonly done for Maglites might also work too.
 
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sween1911

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Got 'em today. Grabbed a cheap Ray-o-vac PR led "30 lumen" drop in for each of them at Walmart. Cut some PVC pipe, wrapped with tape for instant 2D-to-2AA conversion spacer. They work well except my son has a hard time working the switch. Any tips for loosening this up?
 

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