Nitecore P25 problem right out of the gate.

BirdofPrey · Mar 4, 2013

Ok, got my Smilodon from Fasttech yesterday. While I'm impressed with the brightness, I have a fairly considerable problem.

I put a fresh Eagletac 2400 battery in and after a couple minutes of playing around with it, I noticed that the blue indicator light was rapidly flashing. I hadn't read the manual yet so I looked and found that this indicates a nearly dead battery. I knew this couldn't be right but I changed out for a freshly charged Eagletac 3100. Low and behold, same thing. More reading taught me how to use the voltage meter. Using this indicated 4.1 volts.

Confused, I continued tinkering. Found that highest settings would fail to come on intermittently.

I tried using the built in charger and the light would indicate that the battery was full and would not charge more.

I also notice when the light does come on high, the beam will faintly and erratically flicker. Not overly noticeable but it is there.

So now I'm at a loss. Suggestions? Attempt a replacement? Being that it came directly from Hong Kong, I think this may be a bit of an ordeal.

Just looking for ideas. If I can fix or get this fixed, I can see this as being an excellent work light (which is what I bought this light for).

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

buds224 · Mar 4, 2013

Just to try to rule out the batteries, you can try a pair of CR123 primaries and see how the light performs. If the same problems continue to exist on primaries, then I would think it's the light itself. I got mine from fasttech as well and it performs as expected. One of my favorites now.

holylight · Mar 4, 2013

BirdofPrey said:
Ok, got my Smilodon from Fasttech yesterday. While I'm impressed with the brightness, I have a fairly considerable problem.

I put a fresh Eagletac 2400 battery in and after a couple minutes of playing around with it, I noticed that the blue indicator light was rapidly flashing. I hadn't read the manual yet so I looked and found that this indicates a nearly dead battery. I knew this couldn't be right but I changed out for a freshly charged Eagletac 3100. Low and behold, same thing. More reading taught me how to use the voltage meter. Using this indicated 4.1 volts.

Confused, I continued tinkering. Found that highest settings would fail to come on intermittently.

I tried using the built in charger and the light would indicate that the battery was full and would not charge more.

I also notice when the light does come on high, the beam will faintly and erratically flicker. Not overly noticeable but it is there.

So now I'm at a loss. Suggestions? Attempt a replacement? Being that it came directly from Hong Kong, I think this may be a bit of an ordeal.

Just looking for ideas. If I can fix or get this fixed, I can see this as being an excellent work light (which is what I bought this light for).

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

couldnt help u much as i just got mine. is your battery flattop or button top?

because this p25 cannot accept flattop cell due to the restriction at +positive connection. maybe the cell didnt have a good contact point?

BirdofPrey · Mar 4, 2013

I may have fixed the problem. May have but not holding my breath.

I used alcohol on a q-tip and cleaned all contacts. Q-tip was filthy and black when done. Did same with threads. Same result. Also noticed that o-rings were bone dry and that all parts were difficult to unscrew.

Had just the slightest bit of deoxit gold left and used it on contacts, threads, and o-rings. Everything went back together much more smoothly.

Same battery setting off rapid flashing back in light. Turned on with no rapid flashing, no problems cycling modes, and highest mode being brighter than it was before (high and ultra high were almost indistinguishable before and now it's definitely a step up).

I haven't played around with it too much as I'm getting ready for bed but when I let the dog out I put it through it's paces with none of the original problems presenting themselves.

Also, couldn't try CR123s as I used my last one sometime back and haven't bought more since switching over to RCR123s in my tiny Quark.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

SeamusORiley · Mar 4, 2013

BirdofPrey said:
I may have fixed the problem. May have but not holding my breath.

I used alcohol on a q-tip and cleaned all contacts. Q-tip was filthy and black when done. Did same with threads. Same result. Also noticed that o-rings were bone dry and that all parts were difficult to unscrew.

Had just the slightest bit of deoxit gold left and used it on contacts, threads, and o-rings. Everything went back together much more smoothly.

Same battery setting off rapid flashing back in light. Turned on with no rapid flashing, no problems cycling modes, and highest mode being brighter than it was before (high and ultra high were almost indistinguishable before and now it's definitely a step up).

I haven't played around with it too much as I'm getting ready for bed but when I let the dog out I put it through it's paces with none of the original problems presenting themselves.

Also, couldn't try CR123s as I used my last one sometime back and haven't bought more since switching over to RCR123s in my tiny Quark.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

I am curious as to where you got it from specifically, if you got it from a discount seller in China? There have been questions about quality coming from them, and I wonder if the P25 is authentic. There were those who got knock off Skyray Kings who reported that the connections were all very dirty.

If that is not the issue, there are a few other things to consider:

1. Does the flashing warning that comes on early only come on during the Turbo phase?
2. Have you tried a Nitecore battery?

xed888 · Mar 4, 2013

SeamusORiley said:
I am curious as to where you got it from specifically, if you got it from a discount seller in China? There have been questions about quality coming from them, and I wonder if the P25 is authentic. There were those who got knock off Skyray Kings who reported that the connections were all very dirty.

If that is not the issue, there are a few other things to consider:

1. Does the flashing warning that comes on early only come on during the Turbo phase?
2. Have you tried a Nitecore battery?

It's in the OP.

Verndog · Mar 4, 2013

BirdofPrey said:
I put a fresh Eagletac 2400 battery in and after a couple minutes of playing around with it, I noticed that the blue indicator light was rapidly flashing.

Are you sure this isn't a typo and that is a EagleTac 3400?? Reason I ask is there are issues with the EagleTac 3400 making contact in Nitecore EC25's also. I think the button is a bit short on them.

kmorar556 · Mar 4, 2013

My P25 is working just fine, except the side switching blinking a few seconds after i turn on the highest setting, even on a full charge. Im using Nitecore 2600 in mine...But I haven't left the light on the highest setting for long, probably a min or so. Im gonna leave in on bright for 10 mins tonight and see what happens, ill let you know.

deniscure · Mar 4, 2013

Mine blinks also in Turbo setting, once a few seconds, but only after 1-2 minutes of usage upon fully charging it! I use a Nitecore 2300mAh.

Verndog · Mar 4, 2013

kmorar556 said:
My P25 is working just fine, except the side switching blinking a few seconds after i turn on the highest setting, even on a full charge. Im using Nitecore 2600 in mine...But I haven't left the light on the highest setting for long, probably a min or so. Im gonna leave in on bright for 10 mins tonight and see what happens, ill let you know.

This is a known issue with the EC25 also. I think the heavy power draw brings the voltage down enough to set off the 50% warning, but when you drop it back down to a "reasonable power draw level", the blinking should stop (on fully charged battery).

BirdofPrey · Mar 4, 2013

Verndog said:
Are you sure this isn't a typo and that is a EagleTac 3400?? Reason I ask is there are issues with the EagleTac 3400 making contact in Nitecore EC25's also. I think the button is a bit short on them.

Nope. Last time I bought 18650s, I'm not even sure the 3400s were available.

All I've got are 2400s and 3100s.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

BirdofPrey · Mar 4, 2013

As of right now, after the cleaning I gave it, the blink every couple of seconds is all I'm getting.

No more rapid blinking.

I can't give it a more thorough testing until Wednesday or Thursday when I'm off work again.

I'll not be taking it to work yet until I am reasonably confident that the problem is truly resolved.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

SeamusORiley · Mar 4, 2013

Verndog said:
This is a known issue with the EC25 also. I think the heavy power draw brings the voltage down enough to set off the 50% warning, but when you drop it back down to a "reasonable power draw level", the blinking should stop (on fully charged battery).

Mine does the same thing.

Sorry I did not read OP carefully enough. Interestingly enough, I ended up deliberately spending a bit more $ for it to get it from a US dealer, as I have had concerns about Fasttech and knock-offs, seconds, damaged goods, etc. I loved the idea of getting it at such a deep discount, but it was not enough money to keep me from ordering it in the US. I have also found that US dealers are aware of the deep discount prices and will match or come close if asked.

I love Nitecore quality and agree with those who cautioned me to use Nitecore batteries with Nitecore products. Even with the EC 25, I found today that the cheaper batteries sometimes just shut down, after 1 minute on Turbo, completely, but will be okay on lower levels, whereas I put the Nitecore battery back in, and it was fine. (I was testing some batteries today). I have thrown out more than half of my ebay "Fire" type batteries as non-working.

The P25 should arrive Wednesday here and I will post how it comes out.

kmorar556 · Mar 4, 2013

OK, just did a quick test the first time I got the light I charged the 18650 using the micro usb on the light to fully charge the battery. This time I used an actual 18650 charger and fully charged the battery (Nitecore 2600 Mah). Once it was fully charge I ran the light on full brightness for 10mins and the side switch light didnt even blink once! lol I was shocked! Hope this helps!
Btw at 5 mins the light was getting warm, around 7-8mins it was hot and at 10 mins it was hotter but around the head and the body was warm.

BirdofPrey · Mar 4, 2013

SeamusORiley said:
I love Nitecore quality and agree with those who cautioned me to use Nitecore batteries with Nitecore products. Even with the EC 25, I found today that the cheaper batteries sometimes just shut down, after 1 minute on Turbo, completely, but will be okay on lower levels, whereas I put the Nitecore battery back in, and it was fine. (I was testing some batteries today). I have thrown out more than half of my ebay "Fire" type batteries as non-working.

You are aware though that Eagletac brand batteries aren't "cheaper" batteries correct?

SeamusORiley · Mar 5, 2013

BirdofPrey said:
You are aware though that Eagletac brand batteries aren't "cheaper" batteries correct?

I am aware.

The batteries I purchased were not Eagletac but Ultrafire, and I threw out more than half. They were cheap, via ebay and some perform okay, at best. I was advised to use Nitecore batteries so that should I have need of warranty, using Nitecore batteries only might help my cause.

CarpentryHero · Mar 5, 2013

I wouldn't be using a battery under 2900mah for prolonged periods. To get 860 lumens, its pulling between 2.8 amps and 3.2amps (it's an educated guesstimate) and your going over the recommended draw using a 2400 mah.

using a 3400mah Darkmatter, my P25 doesn't rapid flash like it does with my 2600mah cells.

BirdofPrey · Mar 6, 2013

CarpentryHero said:
I wouldn't be using a battery under 2900mah for prolonged periods. To get 860 lumens, its pulling between 2.8 amps and 3.2amps (it's an educated guesstimate) and your going over the recommended draw using a 2400 mah.

using a 3400mah Darkmatter, my P25 doesn't rapid flash like it does with my 2600mah cells.

Maybe I'm missing something. A 2400 mah battery should handle the draw just as well as a 3400 but just not as long. Am I wrong in this assumption?

I used a 2400 Eagletac battery extensively last night with no issues.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

CarpentryHero · Mar 6, 2013

High quality cells, won't fail when drawed on hard, but you may not be getting full brightness. I've had lights that draw 5.6 amps, and although a 2400mah cell will let it turn on, it doesn't have the amperage, The brightness was a third of what it was with an IMR cell.

mAh means milli-Amp hours. A milli-Amp is 1/1000th of an Amp, so 1000 mAh is the ability of the battery to deliver 1000 milli-Amps for one hour or you could say 1-Amp hour. 2200mAh means the ability to deliver 2.2 Amps for an hour.

so think of it like the size of a hose, giving water per hour, your 2.4 inch hose doesn't have the same flow of a 3 inch hose. You'll still have water just less, you'll still have lumens just less

BirdofPrey · Mar 6, 2013

CarpentryHero said:
High quality cells, won't fail when drawed on hard, but you may not be getting full brightness. I've had lights that draw 5.6 amps, and although a 2400mah cell will let it turn on, it doesn't have the amperage, The brightness was a third of what it was with an IMR cell.

mAh means milli-Amp hours. A milli-Amp is 1/1000th of an Amp, so 1000 mAh is the ability of the battery to deliver 1000 milli-Amps for one hour or you could say 1-Amp hour. 2200mAh means the ability to deliver 2.2 Amps for an hour.

so think of it like the size of a hose, giving water per hour, your 2.4 inch hose doesn't have the same flow of a 3 inch hose. You'll still have water just less, you'll still have lumens just less

I may be wrong but the way I've always understood it, it doesn't mean it won't deliver the required amperage. Rather, it means it will deliver the required amps for less time.

That being said, I notice no difference in brightness between either battery. Just a difference in run time.

Sent from my ridiculously large Galaxy Note 2.

Nitecore P25 problem right out of the gate.

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