Hds Rotary High Cri vs 200 lumens

Grmnracing

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I am interested in buying HDS even though long wait times are possible. I never had any High Cri lights and I'm having a real interest in getting one.

I already have a couple EDC lights that are cool white. Problem is I can get a Quark High Cri for cheap or spend the extra money on the HDS.

I am concerned about run times. I want to know if there's a big difference in run times. I can only get one light due to the cost of the HDS.

Options are

HDS High Cri

HDS 200 lumen

FourSevens Quark mini High Cri
 

mesa232323

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I've been wondering the same thing. The specs on these lights aren't very impressive. Not sure what's so great about it. People obviously love these lights, and the customer is always right. So many options and I don't know which light purchase myself. Not trying to steal your thread.
 

WilsonCQB1911

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I've been wondering the same thing. The specs on these lights aren't very impressive. Not sure what's so great about it. People obviously love these lights, and the customer is always right. So many options and I don't know which light purchase myself. Not trying to steal your thread.

The beauty of these lights are that they can be anything you want them to be. They are fully customizable. Add to the fact that build quality, beam quality etc leave little for want and you have a great light. The HDS clicky is by far my favorite light because of all those things. Some of it is intangible, but I cannot recommend them enough.
 

neutralwhite

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thanks, being a HCRI brightness is acceptable for EDC but if your looking for more brightness, go cool white 200 Lumens. this HCRI is some less and is used for more colour work than real EDC. my EDC for brightness is an alpha light 6500k XM-L U2 with TIR optic!.
thanks

Do you have an HDS HCRI? I assume you do. How is it for EDC? Bright enough?


Steven
 

Sparky's Magic

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@Grmnracing: Have a look at Vinh's offerings (over on market place) - He does a Nichia 219 on very thich copper PCB's. He drives them pretty hard with no problems at all; heat management, runtime and tint are all fine and at 2.8A he will make you a drop-in that delivers about 300Lu. He is very helpful, guarantees all his work and is worth talking to.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ns-All-Copper-Bonded-PCBs-even-XP-G2s-MT-G2-)
 

cerbie

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Based on specs, runtimes on high should be similar, depending on what output bins are being used by HDS (note that 47's specs don't change by choosing an LED, and HDS' are minimums). With the HDS, you're getting mode programability (want <0.5lm? 10lm? 50lm?), burst (where the >1hr stated runtimes come from, basically), thermal throttling (it won't burn you, nor the emitter), battery health indication, and support for RCR123 cells (including output throttling based on detected chemistry). The HDS gives you more options, and when runtime becomes a practical issue, it will let you know, and drop in brightness to conserve battery, rather than leave you in the dark, which the 47s will do with aplomb. The HDS will also be really rugged and all, but the 47s is probably durable enough.

Outdoors, HCRI will let you see subtleties in terrain much easier, including animals, holes, vines, and so on. It can be the difference between seeing where you are looking, and seeing what's there. I have yet to encounter a snake (whew), but that seems to be a common thing that HCRI flashlights are really good at pointing out, based on testimonials. I won't complain if I don't get to find out about that one first hand :).
 

neutralwhite

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+1. excellent suggestion right there!. get in touch..

@Grmnracing: Have a look at Vinh's offerings (over on market place) - He does a Nichia 219 on very thich copper PCB's. He drives them pretty hard with no problems at all; heat management, runtime and tint are all fine and at 2.8A he will make you a drop-in that delivers about 300Lu. He is very helpful, guarantees all his work and is worth talking to.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?350519-vinhnguyen54-D26-P60-Dropn-Ins-All-Copper-Bonded-PCBs-even-XP-G2s-MT-G2-%29
 

Grmnracing

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@Grmnracing: Have a look at Vinh's offerings (over on market place) - He does a Nichia 219 on very thich copper PCB's. He drives them pretty hard with no problems at all; heat management, runtime and tint are all fine and at 2.8A he will make you a drop-in that delivers about 300Lu. He is very helpful, guarantees all his work and is worth talking to.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ns-All-Copper-Bonded-PCBs-even-XP-G2s-MT-G2-)

Thanks for the information. Sorry for my ignorance, any information on drop ins? I'm not very familiar with them.

Are these drop ins for certain lights? I'm assuming Surefire lights. Like the 6P?
 
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Grmnracing

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mbw_151

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I have several generations of HDS EDC lights. What I can tell you from my experience is that this is a light that covers 98-99% of my hand held applications. If you need 0.5 lumens the HDS does it. If you need 10 lumens if does that too. If you need 120 or 200 lumens it does that too, for a short time. If you need 500 lumens, well it doesn't do that, yet. I typically use 3 lights: an HDS EDC, a Surefire Minimus, and a SurefireC3/Malkoff M61NL. The HDS gets used most frequently but in short bursts, the Minimus gets used the most hours, and the Surefire/Malkoff (or any other single level, high output light) gets used rarely and mostly for fun. If you want a compact, highly durable handheld that you can use to maximize battery life and still have the light level you need on demand, the HDS it.
 

Maxbelg

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http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...DS-clickies-Mainly-High-CRI-**PHOTO-Intensive** This is a thread with some very nice pics of the HDS lights in question.
Please remember that this was the previous High CRI Clicky. The current High CRI Clicky compared to the current 200 Lumen offering can be seen here #1098.

I have a high cri Rotary and a 200 Lumen Clicky (and 2 Nichia 219 modded Clickys and another Rotary on the way) and EDC the high CRI Rotary. Lumen is more than adequate for any EDC task and remember that output values are out the front, furthermore many similar sized lights with greater output use XML LEDs so that they can publish amazing outputs in the specifications, but due to the floody nature of these emitters with a small reflector the intensity (lux) is less than the XPG offerings of HDS.

The HDS lights are the best EDC flashlights bar none according to me. The combination of features, robustness, quality and size is not found elsewhere. I think there are only 2 negatives: Price (although for the features and quality they are reasonable) and availability (this is a royal pain in the ... but may change one day.)
 

morelightnow

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You didn't specify what amount of light output you want your runtimes at, so I will just tell you my "scientific" opinion. A wise move may be to expand your horizons and add a HCRI light to your collection from HDS. It is a fine unit, built with a very pleasing emitter.

Before mine arrived, I was unsure if I would like the emitter color choice. I was not worried about output. The first time I turned it on high, I was totally amazed! The lumen output is amazing for a low bin emitter. My friends even commented on how bright it is. I know you did not ask about tint, but this led mimics an incandescent very well; not perfectly, but very well, and you should be aware of that.

What this means for you is that you may be able to run a HCRI HDS on a level below maximun and be happy with output. Then, you will have more runtime than is stated on the HDS website or by customers that have tested on high. The mystery is how much longer.
 

twl

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It's a personal choice that you need to get some exposure to before you decide.

The first thing that you need to know is that HCRI is based on the CCT(color temp), and is only applicable with that color temp. Many HCRI LEDs are in the "warm" category with color temps lower than 4000K CCT. These are the ones which people describe as being "like an incandescent lamp". In other words, not white. Be aware. It's going to look yellow or brownish in the beam. They do this to try to balance off the color spectrum, and it ends up not being a white light anymore. If you shine it on a white wall, or anything else white, it isn't going to look white. How this can be considered good color rendering when it can't even do white correctly, is quite a mystery to me. If you want white, this might bug you.

Second, the HCRI output is significantly less because they have to put all those layers of colored coatings on the LED to get that CCT. That output reduction might not be noticeable at close range, but the distance throw will be less. Sometimes it might be a lot less.
So, even if you like the High CRI beam color for where it reaches, the CRI is zero for distances that the light cannot reach. The higher power cool white LED will throw further.
Can it throw far enough for what you want?
Only you can answer that.

I have tried various CCT and CRI lights, and my opinion is that it is definitely a "see-able" difference in color-shading, but that the cool lights are still good enough for me to tell what colors things are.
So, it comes down to color-shade variations, and how important that is for your applications, IMO.
I decided that since I could tell what color it was with the cool light, and I could see a lot more with the cool light because it has higher output and goes further, that I didn't need to have that subtle color-shade distinction. I could tell if it was a red car, or a green leaf, or whatever, just fine. I wasn't doing color photography for National Geographic. I just need to be able to see in the dark. If my goal was to take in the breathtaking natural colors of various landscapes on nature walks, then maybe the HCRI would have been more important to me.
But my decision that I would prefer to have the higher output and more light from the cool, because I could see the colors well enough for my use, even if color rendering wasn't perfect.
 
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