Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + more!

selfbuilt

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Warning: pic heavy, as usual. :whistle:

M3X045.jpg

M3X048.jpg

M3X046.jpg


It was a little over two years ago that I review the first model in the M3x-series of lights from Olight – the SST-50-based M31. This was quickly replaced with by the XM-L-based M3X, which now sports the new XM-L2 emitter (to be reviewed here).

Physically not much has changed, but let's put the new XM-L2 version through its paces and see how it compares to some other modern "throw" lights in my collection. :whistle:

Manufacturer Reported Specifications:
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).

  • Assembled with the latest Cree XM-L2 LED [Reviewer's note: Olight informs me my sample is a T6 output bin]
  • Two brightness levels and Strobe
  • Output/Runtime: Hi 1000lm (1hr 20min), Lo 300lm (5hr)
  • Supports 3x or 4x CR123A, or 2x18650 Li-ions
  • Beam intensity: 84,100cd
  • Beam distance: 580m
  • Impact resistance: 2m
  • The Crenellated bezel and tail designed for close combat
  • ATM (Active Thermal Management System) prevent flashlights, LED and other components from high temperature, it raises the reliability of the product.
  • Smooth reflector offers perfect beam and long throw
  • Shatter and scratch resistant and anti-reflective double coated ultra clear lens,
    light transmission rate of 99%
  • Highly water resistant to IPX-8
  • Removable stainless steel clip
  • Dimensions: 1211mm / 8.30" (L) x 63mm / 2.48" (D)
  • Weight: 266g / 9.38oz (without battery)
  • Included accessories: Extended Tube*1; Holster*1; Battery Magazine *1; O-ring*4
  • MSRP: ~$130
M3X037.jpg

M3X038.jpg

M3X040.jpg


The M3X comes in a presentation-style plastic carrying case, similar to the other M-series lights from Olight. Inside everything is firmly secured in cut-out foam. You will find the light with battery extender tube, manual, warranty card, battery carrier, spare o-rings, and belt holster.

M3X010.jpg

M3X010.jpg

M3X030.jpg

From left to right: CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15.

With battery extender in place:

M3X014.jpg

M3X021.jpg

M3X027.jpg

From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Olight M3X; Crelant 7G5CS; Klarus XT-30; Nitecore MT40; Thrunite Catapult V3; Sunwayman T40CS.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

Olight M3X no Extender: Weight: 260.9g, Length 211mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
Olight M3X with Extender: Weight 277.8g, Length 244mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
Olight M31 no Extender: Weight: 258.1g, Length 209mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
Olight M31 with Extender: Weight 275.1g, Length 245mm, Width (bezel): 62.3mm
Crelant 7G5CS: Weight: 334.5g, Length: 247mm Width (bezel): 64.0mm
Eagletac GX25L2: Weight: 198.3g (with battery pack: 290.1g), Length: 224mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
Eagletac SX25L2: Weight: 279.4g (with battery pack: 470.3g), Length: 239mm, Width (bezel): 47.0mm
Klarus XT30: Weight: 283.1g, Length: 247mm, Width (bezel): 58.0mm
Niwalker 750N1: Weight: 408.0g, Length: 269mm, Width (bezel): 58.6mm
Sunwayman T40CS: Weight: 296.7g, Length 227, Width (bezel): 63.5mm
Thrunite Catapult V3: Weight: 434.8g, Length: 254mm, Width (bezel) 58.0mm, Width (tailcap) 35.1mm.

The M3X has the same basic dimensions as the earlier M31 and M3X models, with a fairly wide head for this class.

M3X058.jpg

M3X060.jpg

M3X052.jpg

M3X062.jpg

M3X061.jpg


Physically, the build of the M3X hasn't really changed over the years. The M3X comes with matte finish type-III (hard) anodizing, in black. Rather than traditional knurling, the M3X continues to have the trademark Olight raised checkered pattern to help with grip. I typically find Olight lettering is bright and clear, and the M3X is no exception.

Screw threads are not anodized on the battery tubes, but there is anodizing on the tailcap screw threads. So lock-out is possible, although it may not be as robust as where both sets of matching threads are anodized.

The attached clip can be removed by unscrewing the retaining ring above it and pulling the clip off. The cover hides the attachment point in use.

The tailcap switch is a typical forward clicky, with good feel. Both the bezel opening and tailcap have raised scalloped edges. Like earlier lights, the M3X can also tailstand.

The included 3xCR123A/RCR battery holder is optional – you don't need to use it in this configuration, but it does remove battery rattle if you choose to. The bore width of the body tube is wide enough to accommodate protected 18500/18650, so thinner CR123A cells are prone to some rattle. At the very least, it makes a good storage holder for an extra set of cells.

Note the spring in the head, so high capacity flat-top batteries can be used. All my 18650 cells fit, but some of the longer cells seemed to be under a fair amount of tension.

M3X XM-L2 T6:
M3X054.jpg

M3X036.jpg

M3X031.jpg


As before, reflector is smooth, and both wide and deep. Coupled with the XM-L2 emitter Cool White emitter (which was well centered on my sample), I would expect very good throw.

Note that you can distinguish the XM-L2 (shown above) from the original XM-L by the lack of bond wires over the die surface now, and the use of a silver mask (instead of green) outside the die/dome area. In case you are wondering, here is what the original SST-50-equipped M31 looked like:

M31 SST-50:
M31018.jpg

M31028.jpg


User Interface

User interface has been updated from the original M31, but I'm not sure when this change occurred among the M3X models.

As before, turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

You choose output mode by the position of the head – tight for Hi, loose for Lo. You access strobe by doing a loosen/tighten or tighten/loosen head switch in under one second. There is no mode memory for Strobe – upon turning off/on, the light always returns to the defined constant output head state.

On the previous M31, you would do loosen/tighten switches of the head to move through all the output states (Lo > Med > Hi > Strobe, in sequence).

Video:

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen.

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

PWM/Strobe

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – The M3X is current-controlled like its predecessors. :)

M3X-Strobe.gif


The strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.5Hz frequency (as before).

Beamshots:

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on 2x AW protected 18650 batteries. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

M3X-XML2--Beam001.jpg
7G5CS-Beam001.jpg

XT30-Beam001.jpg
SX25L2-Beam001.jpg


M3X-XML2--Beam002.jpg
7G5CS-Beam002.jpg

XT30-Beam002.jpg
SX25L2-Beam002.jpg


M3X-XML2--Beam003.jpg
7G5CS-Beam003.jpg

XT30-Beam003.jpg
SX25L2-Beam003.jpg


M3X-XML2--Beam004.jpg
7G5CS-Beam004.jpg

XT30-Beam004.jpg
SX25L2-Beam004.jpg


The M3X has a very wide spillbeam for this class, with a sharply defined hotspot. This is the classic "thrower" style, and you can probably tell from the above that this light will throw far.

Of course, the true test will be in outdoor shots. :whistle: The snow is nearly gone here, so I should be able to get to these soon. In the meantime, here are some indoor shots. These will at least allow you to compare the throw and spill of the lights. For your reference, the back of the couch is about 7 feet away (~2.3m) from the opening of the light, and the far wall is about 18 feet away (~5.9m). Below I am showing a series of exposures, to allow you to better compare hotspot and spill.

7G5CS-M3X-XT30-Basement10.gif

7G5CS-M3X-XT30-Basement25.gif

7G5CS-M3X-XT30-Basement100.gif


The M3X definitely has the brightest (and largest) hotspot among by best 2x18650 XM-L-based throwers. :thumbsup:

M3X-7G5CS-SX25L2-10.gif

M3X-7G5CS-SX25L2-25.gif

M3X-7G5CS-SX25L2-100.gif


I've thrown another XM-L2 light into the mix above (Eagletac SX25L2), but clearly it can't compete with the standard head. Eagletac will be sending me Turbo heads for those series, so we'll see how they do when they arrive.

UPDATE JUNE 18, 2003: Below see a comparison of the M3X to the Eagletac SX25L2 Turbo head, and ArmyTek Barracuda - two recent XM-L2 lights.

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground).

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. :)

Barracuda-M3X-SX25L2T.gif

Barracuda-M3X-SX25L2Tz.gif


As you can see, the M3X is an outstanding thrower, with a wider spillbeam than the other lights (especially the Barracuda). The Barracuda has the highest centre beam lux throw in my collection at the moment, but the M3X XM-L2 is very close. Again, ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.


Testing Method:

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

Throw/Output Summary Chart:

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).

M3X-FL1-Summary1.gif


The Olight ANSI FL-1 output and throw specs for the M3X seem very good – my measures match them closely. :)

The 91,000cd center beam intensity makes this the furthest throwing reflector-based 2x18650 light in my collection at the moment. Only the aspherical (collimator) lights are able to beat it (and even there, not by much). :eek:oo:

XM-L2 vs XM-L
I realize all this emitter talk may seem confusing, especially for those that don't keep up on the fine details of LEDs. :whistle:

Basically, these new XM-L2 emitters are very similar to the old XM-L, but built on a new process. Directly comparing back to XM-L is complicated by the more stringent testing and reporting measures Cree is now using for XM-L2 output binning. But there is actually an easy conversion - if you look up the Cree spec tables under the same conditions, you will see that the new XM-L2 bins are exactly two bin steps brighter than the same bin number on XM-L. So a XM-L2 T6 is basically the same thing as a XM-L U3. This is part of the reason for the switch to the new process - there is now more "headroom" on the new XM-L2 platform, and higher output XM-L2 emitters can ultimately be produced.

In terms of lumens though, you have to keep in mind how the binning process works. Given the ~7% range within each bin, this means that for any given specific XM-L2 sample could be anywhere from ~7-20% brighter than a comparably bin-numbered XM-L sample. This is presumably where that "up to" 20% brighter statement comes from in the Cree literature. :rolleyes: But you need to keep in mind that on average, a XM-L2 T6 should be ~13% brighter than a XM-L T6, for example. You really have to think of these things statistically – the bins are a range, and you don't know where exactly in the range any given sample will fall.

Olight doesn't typically publish output bin specs for their lights, but they have confirmed with me that my M3X sample uses a T6 output bin.

Output/Runtime Graphs:

M3X-Max18650.gif

M3X-Hi18650.gif


On max, the M3X has very high output for the class, with no sign of any sort of step-down. It is interesting to compare it to the original M31 – as you can tell from the 2x18650 runtimes above, the M31 was clearly driving its SST-50 emitter very hard (i.e. runtimes were relatively low for the class).

It is interesting to note that the "Lo" on the M3X is brighter than the "Med" mode of most other lights. Efficiency of the XM-L2-equipped M3X seems very similar overall to the Eagletac GX25L2, at all levels. Both Olight and Eagletac are known for their efficient current-controlled circuits. :)

Let's see how the Olight lights compare on 2x18500 (which fit into the light with the extender in place):

M3X-18500.gif


These lights are not well suited to 2x18500, given how hard they are driven on 2x Li-ion sources (i.e., you are better sticking with good capacity 18650 cells). But it's nice to know the option is there if you need it.

For the CR123A runs, I am comparing below the M3X and M31 to a number of 3xCR123A and 4xCR123A lights (with the 3x runs in dotted lines, 4x runs in solid).

M3X-HiCR123A.gif


The Hi mode of my M3X performed better on CR123A primary batteries than my earlier M31. :)

But to understand why, I need to first explain the apparently unusual behavior of the M31 on 3x and 4x primary battery sources (i.e., those rapid dips and partial recoveries). The older M31 is driven high enough on Max to trip the PTC safety devices of most primary CR123A cells, when run over a sustained period.

Simply put, a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) functions kind of like a resistor or circuit breaker, and is incorporated into every primary CR123A battery. Technically, they are thermistors – circuit devices whose resistance varies with temperature (in this case, resistance increases with temperature, aka a posistor). Battery PTCs are of the "switching" type, which means their resistance rises suddenly once a certain critical temperature is reached. I have previously observed that there are marked differences in the speed in which made-in-the-USA cells will trip compared to made-in-China cells (i.e., made-in-the-USA cells trip earlier). My CR123A testing is done with made-in-China Titanium Innovations cells, which tend not to trip as easily. This conclusion, based on extensive testing in another light, is thoroughly discussed in this thread.

The point is that once the temperature reaches a certain threshold (which varies according to the battery manufacturer), the PTC resistance rises and current limitation kicks in, causing a rapid drop in output. Over time, the temperature drops and the cells recover, showing an uptick in output. This is what you are seeing on the earlier M31 traces above, which was hard on all primary batteries (even on my more forgiving Titanium Innovation cells).

I am happy to report that the M3X doesn't seem to heat/drive the cells to the same level as the M31 (i.e., no sign of PTC engagement in these tests, using the same brand of cells as before). :thumbsup: That said, I can tell that the M3X current draw on Hi is still hard on the primary cells - I saw clear evidence of wrapper damage near the PTCs after these tests. Note that this wrapper damage issue is not unique to this light - I've seen signs of this before on many heavily-driven 2x and 3x/4xCR123A lights. But it suggests that had I been using made-in-the-USA cells (which trip earlier), it is possible that PTCs may have engaged to limit the current on the M3X as well.

As such, I continue to recommend you do not run any of the M3x-series lights on Hi for extended periods on 3x or 4xCR123A cells. I would also recommend Olight introduce a step-down feature in this light, as they have in a number of their other models (e.g. the recent M22 and S20).

As with my other recent Olight lights, ANSI FL-1 runtime specs are consistent with my results. :) Recall that I use lower capacity 2200mAh 18650 cells, and that the FL-1 standard calls for time to 10% output (not 50%, as reported above).

Potential Issues

All M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi, with no automatic step-down feature. As such, I recommend you do not run the light on Hi for extended periods of time on primary CR123A or 2x18500. On Hi, the light is really best suited for 2x18650.

Light lacks a true Lo mode (i.e., the included Lo is more like the "Med" mode of most lights in this class).

There is no bundled diffuser with the M3X, unlike other M-series Olights. However, the standard Olight filter from SR50/SR51 fits and works perfectly.

Preliminary Observations

First, the headline: the XM-L2-equipped M3X is the furthest throwing reflector-based 2x18650 light in my collection at the moment. :wave:

It is an impressive level of throw, coming close to some aspherics I've seen in this size. The M3x series has been around for a while now, and Olight has clearly optimized it for max output and throw in this class. I am happy to report that the M3X's ANSI FL-1 specs for output, throw and runtime appear to be very accurate.

Those familiar with the M3x build will find little has changed in external appearance. User Interface has been simplified from the earlier M31, with just two constant output modes now (set by head tight or loose) and "hidden" strobe (accessed by a head twist). :thumbsup: This is different from earlier models, where head twists were used to change between three constant output modes and strobe (in sequence). I suspect most will find the new interface an improvement, but it does mean you lack a true Lo mode now.

I have always liked the wide battery flexibility of this series, both with the extender (i.e. 2x18650, 4xCR123A) and without it (i.e. 2x18500, 3xCR123A). But as I have noted in previous model reviews, this series is highly-driven on Hi (with no sign of step-down). As such, you may want to take care not to run the light in extended periods on CR123A or lower capacity 18500s (i.e., best to use good quality, high-capacity 2x18650 for extended Hi mode runs).

At the end of the day, this series remains a torch-bearer (pardon the pun) ;) for the reflector-based heavy-throw class. With appropriate common-sense about battery configurations on Hi, I think you will find the new XM-L2-based M3X is worth consideration in the massive throw class.

----

M3X was provided by Olight for this review.
 
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holylight

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Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m

Thanks2.
 

Swede74

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Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m

I'm sorry to chime in when I have so little to say, but there seem to be an error in the caption for the photo that shows three lights side by side. (#9 from the top) It says "From left to right: AW Protected 18650; CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15." but I can only see the primary cell and the lights.

With that out of the way, I thank you again for another great review. I'm amazed by how frequently you post them - are Canadian days by any chance 25 hours long?
 

selfbuilt

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Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + m

I'm sorry to chime in when I have so little to say, but there seem to be an error in the caption for the photo that shows three lights side by side. (#9 from the top) It says "From left to right: AW Protected 18650; CR123A; Olight M3X; Surefire UB3T; Jetbeam RRT-15." but I can only see the primary cell and the lights.
Yeah, I guess I'm just too used to having 18650s in my pics, must have typed it automatically. Fixed. :)

I'm amazed by how frequently you post them - are Canadian days by any chance 25 hours long?
Yeah, I have been burning the candle at both ends lately. But things will be going back to my historical norms for the next couple of months, I expect.
 

Eagle 1

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thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out :(
 

SureAddicted

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thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out :(

Using CR123s will gain you more lumens plus runtime over RCR123s.
If peak output is your primary concern, then you'd go with cr123 then rcr followed by 18650. If runtime is your concern, then you'd go cr123, 18650 then rcr123.
 

selfbuilt

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thanks for the great review! just got the light and i'm wondering if i should use 4x rcr123s? cant seem to figure it out :(
The manual makes no mention of RCR, or the max circuit range. Clearly, 3xRCR should work (given that it take 4xCR123A), but I don't know if 4xRCR is supported. 4xRCR ran fine in my original M31, but I haven't tried it in the M3X, so can't say for certain.

In any case, I think you are better using 2x18650 or 2x18500 as a rechargeable option. You loose capacity when you go down to multiple RCRs, and there is no advantage in terms of output (i.e., you just lose runtime). The M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi As such, I don't recommend 3xRCR (standard ICR) on Hi, as you will likely be running the cells pretty close to the maximum discharge rate.
 

AEHaas

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Without the extender I can pocket this light. I would call it the new King of Throw for easy to carry lights. If you need more time use the extender. If you need more light that is still portable use a Polarion.

This light is like having an Olight SR90 but in a much smaller package.

Am I missing something, why is there not much more discussion in this thread?

aehaas
 

selfbuilt

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This light is like having an Olight SR90 but in a much smaller package.
Am I missing something, why is there not much more discussion in this thread?
Yes, that's a good analogy.

I'm guessing the lack of interest in the thread stems in part from the fact that it is an existing physical build (i.e., the M31 and original M3X have been around for awhile here). So there's not much that has changed from previous reviews, except some interface differences - and of course, the throw. ;) Probably human nature, but I suspect people would have been more interested if it had a new model number and different styling (even if the functionality remained the same). :whistle:
 

LiteHead

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Thanks, selfbuilt, for shrinking my bank account (again).

Quick note about the defuser (or lack there of):

My SR51 defuser fits perfectly on the M3X. I like to use it more as a protective cover for the lens, but it works great at defusing the beam.

If people out there don't have an SR51, they can order the defuser for one from Olight.
 

selfbuilt

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My SR51 defuser fits perfectly on the M3X. I like to use it more as a protective cover for the lens, but it works great at defusing the beam.
If people out there don't have an SR51, they can order the defuser for one from Olight.
Yes, I can confirm the SR50/SR51 diffuser fits and works fine on this light. I'll add that note to the review. It is available seperately, although it would have been nice if Olight had bundled it directly.
 

selfbuilt

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I have updated this review with outdoor beamshot comparisons of M3X to the Eagletac SX25L2 Turbo head, and ArmyTek Barracuda - two recent XM-L2 lights. :)

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground).

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. :)

Barracuda-M3X-SX25L2T.gif

Barracuda-M3X-SX25L2Tz.gif


As you can see, the M3X is an outstanding thrower, with a wider spillbeam than the other lights (especially the Barracuda). The Barracuda has the highest centre beam lux throw in my collection at the moment, but the M3X XM-L2 is very close. Again, ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera.
 

whatswrongwithmee

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I've noticed that some US ebay sellers are selling these for, A LOT cheaper. Why the sudden deep price drops for 1000 lumen version?
 

Capolini

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I've noticed that some US ebay sellers are selling these for, A LOT cheaper. Why the sudden deep price drops for 1000 lumen version?

Greta review SB,,,,,,,,,,,,My addiction is calling again!

I have noticed that also! A $40 difference!! It is always a risk when you don't buy it off a dealer and get all the benefits most of them offer! I think the warranty would probably be out the window buying it from ebay/amazon ect.
 

Capolini

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The manual makes no mention of RCR, or the max circuit range. Clearly, 3xRCR should work (given that it take 4xCR123A), but I don't know if 4xRCR is supported. 4xRCR ran fine in my original M31, but I haven't tried it in the M3X, so can't say for certain.

In any case, I think you are better using 2x18650 or 2x18500 as a rechargeable option. You loose capacity when you go down to multiple RCRs, and there is no advantage in terms of output (i.e., you just lose runtime). The M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi As such, I don't recommend 3xRCR (standard ICR) on Hi, as you will likely be running the cells pretty close to the maximum discharge rate.

SB,,,,Can it use the longer 18650 protected batteries? 69 to 70mm?

I looked up the AW 2200Mah 18650 you were using and they were on 67.8mm.

Thanks
 
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selfbuilt

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Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo

Should be fine. Typically, longer cells work fine in multi-cell length lights. If anything, it is shorter cells that typically have a problem in these lights (due to low tension).

EDIT: to clarify one point - a potential issue with longer cells is too much tension on the batteries. This could lead to denting of the cells, especially the positive terminal (if it uses a very thin button top, for example).
 
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Capolini

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Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo

Should be fine. Typically, longer cells work fine in multi-cell length lights. If anything, it is shorter cells that typically have a problem in these lights (due to low tension).


Thanks SB! :thumbsup: I saw on your review that the battery tube was wide enough for protected 18650, was not sure about the length!

I pulled the trigger on this one last night!! ;)

I got it for $6 cheaper than I got my M22!! :eek: That is with the warranty[2 year] included!! It does not have the lumens that the TK-75 has but it has similar PBI and with only 2X 18650!!! It seems like a great torch!!
 

Capolini

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Aug 4, 2013
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Location
Valley Forge, Pa.
Re: Olight M3X (XM-L2, 2x18650, 3x/4xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + mo

"Expectations beyond logic result in disappointment!!"

That is one of my quotes. the logical thing to do is wait and see until you get the product[whatever it may be] and don't get your hopes up to much!

I just got the M3X a few hours ago and I am sending it back.

It is a shame because I know it is a great light, I just got a dud! At least I think so.

Center Beam: Not focused, blurry ,distorted with Mickey Mouse ears at 1,5, 7 and 11 o'clock. These were wall shots from about 7' away.
Also a very Yellow tint unlike any of my other XM-L or L2 torches.

I knew I was sending it back after that. I took it out anyway and noticed after about 10 minutes on high [FLASHBACK!] there was "Condensation" under the lens! About 1.5 times the diameter of a pencil.

I know it can be an impressive light by the throw I saw and I like the fact that although a bit long with [9.7"] it is relatively light.

Anyone else have any of these issue?? Rabbit ears, yellow tint and the worst,,,,"Condensation" under the lens?

feedback appreciated
 
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