Please Help: Spacer Need...

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

I have a 7C Maglite and a triple XM-L dropin ready for it.

I also have three 26650 3.2v LiFePO4 cells.

Thing is, we have some space left over.

While I could certainly post a "WTB" and pay someone to do it, both Lowe's and Home Depot are no more than a 20 minute bike ride away,
and I believe I can build this with some guidance.

What I Have:

1) A few bucks for parts
2) The dimensions
3) Home Depot and Lowe's
4) Screwdriver
5) Patience

What I Don't Have:

1) Drill
2) Saw
3) Vise
etc...

According to our friends at Wikipedia, the nominal length of a "C" cell is 50mm.

50mm * 7 cells = 350mm

I have three 26650 cells, which are by definition 65mm long.

65mm * 3 cells = 195mm

So:

350mm tube length - 195mm length of cells = 155mm extra

What do you guys think?

Do you know of any simple ways I can build a spacer for twenty U.S. dollars or less in parts?

It doesn't need to be fancy or particularly durable, as it will simply sit in the tube and I'll load the batteries behind it.

It should make firm contact with both ends.

Thank you!

TexasLumens · Apr 14, 2013

LEDAdd1ct said:
I have a 7C Maglite and a triple XM-L dropin ready for it.

I also have three 26650 3.2v LiFePO4 cells.

Thing is, we have some space left over.

While I could certainly post a "WTB" and pay someone to do it, both Lowe's and Home Depot are no more than a 20 minute bike ride away,
and I believe I can build this with some guidance.

What I Have:

1) A few bucks for parts
2) The dimensions
3) Home Depot and Lowe's
4) Screwdriver
5) Patience

What I Don't Have:

1) Drill
2) Saw
3) Vise
etc...

According to our friends at Wikipedia, the nominal length of a "C" cell is 50mm.

50mm * 7 cells = 350mm

I have three 26650 cells, which are by definition 65mm long.

65mm * 3 cells = 195mm

So:

350mm tube length - 195mm length of cells = 155mm extra

What do you guys think?

Do you know of any simple ways I can build a spacer for twenty U.S. dollars or less in parts?

It doesn't need to be fancy or particularly durable, as it will simply sit in the tube and I'll load the batteries behind it.

It should make firm contact with both ends.

Thank you!

You can pick these parts up at either place. This makes your spacer adjustable. I THINK if you will look in the washers bin at Lowes, you can purchase plastic washers to use since you don't have a drill. Look as well in the sliding door hardware parts. :sssh:

The screw is called a "Chicago Screw"... or in some places by other names. This might help. I hope. These parts should cost you less than $3.00. Save the rest for tools. Working with no tools is tough. Bike down to your local pawn shop and get yourself a little hand drill. ... I sure recall the days I had no tools and it was not fun. Good Luck. Dan.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

Thanks, Dan.

I like your idea a lot and will try it.

Will report back after the bike ride.

EDIT: Thank you for taking the time to post a picture. It really helps.

LilKevin715 · Apr 14, 2013

Copper pipe in the plumbing section cut down to size could work as well.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

Oh, that's a good idea!

But would I have to house the pipe inside something else?

I mean, I could have a long, thin piece of copper pipe to go from the uppermost positive battery terminal to the terminal at the top of the light.

But what would I put the copper tube in?

EDIT: I suppose I could thread it through some plastic washers that are roughly "C" battery size to keep it centered...

LilKevin715 · Apr 14, 2013

A copper pipe of 1/2" or 3/4" diameter wrapped with scotch tape could be used at the tailspring.

tjswarbrick · Apr 14, 2013

TexasLumens said:
You can pick these parts up at either place. This makes your spacer adjustable. I THINK if you will look in the washers bin at Lowes, you can purchase plastic washers to use since you don't have a drill. Look as well in the sliding door hardware parts. The screw is called a "Chicago Screw"... or in some places by other names. This might help. I hope. These parts should cost you less than $3.00. Save the rest for tools. Working with no tools is tough. Bike down to your local pawn shop and get yourself a little hand drill. ... I sure recall the days I had no tools and it was not fun. Good Luck. Dan.

My local hardware store had no idea what Chicago Screws were. When I told him Binder screws, they had a ton of different sizes.
Good luck!

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

What about these parts at Lowe's?

Copy and paste to search on Google, first hit for each:

1) NIBCO 1/4" x 2' Type L Soft Cut Length Copper

2) 1/4-in Copper Slip Cap Fitting

think2x · Apr 14, 2013

I think 3/4" copper pipe caps will fit in the C cell body, if so then........

TWO- 3/4" copper caps and a section of 3/4" copper pipe cut to length. Install at the tail end between the battery and spring. Complete's the circuit and can be used to store small items (matches, paracord, etc......)

EDIT: If the spacer is used at the tail, you also don't need to wrap it with anything to isolate it because it's on the negative side and is not in the switch path either.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

I was planning on using the spacer at the front; otherwise, I would have to pull the spacer out to charge the cells each time.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 14, 2013

Thanks for the help, guys.

I biked over to Lowe's this evening and found a nice long bolt/screw (zinc, I believe), and a few packs of plastic washers.

If I pair the washers up, it should keep the screw centered. I could have bought some nuts to lock the washers in place,
but figured I would save the money and just use tape or rubber bands.

I'll be testing the spacer tonight.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 15, 2013

No go. :-(

Put lead at top of tower and lead at bottom of bolt and no voltage being read.

Appears to be some oxidation on terminal at the bottom of the Maglite head.

Not quite sure how to clean it off...it's a long way.

I could try taping some steel wool to the bottom of a dowel, but I am afraid the shards might stay for an extended visit...perhaps I'll spring for some contact cleaner and tape a tissue to the end of the dowel instead.

jkpq45 · Apr 15, 2013

You could always drop the tower out of the mag body and clean it that way.

Or, if you want to skip all the trouble of this 7C stuff, you could sell/trade it to me for a shorter unit! :thumbsup:

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 15, 2013

Hmm...I may have to remove the tower.

That would present the best chance of cleaning things.

At least then I could verify where the holdup in electrons is.

I'll post back after.

Thank you for the offer. I'll be holding on to this one.

FILIPPO · Apr 15, 2013

Followin this thread.. I like the idea of a modded 7C ... They are so rare!

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 15, 2013

I removed the old switch to clean off the oxidation and lost something important down the sink.

So I tossed the remaining parts, figuring a new switch was in order anyway for this venerable host,
and after installing the new switch, it works fine.

Only problem is, there is too much of a gap between the rubber button and the switch actuator.

What can I fill the gap with that won't cause a problem?

FILIPPO · Apr 16, 2013

LEDAdd1ct said:
I removed the old switch to clean off the oxidation and lost something important down the sink.

So I tossed the remaining parts, figuring a new switch was in order anyway for this venerable host,
and after installing the new switch, it works fine.

Only problem is, there is too much of a gap between the rubber button and the switch actuator.

What can I fill the gap with that won't cause a problem?

i think this happen when the rubber swhitch cover is old and tired... I have the same problem on my3D...
Or maybe becouse the old C hosts have bigger internal diameter... I don't know ho to fix it..
Maybe you can glue a small piece of plastic on the top of the switch actuator... Anyway you have to be carefull ..
1) gule and switch are not the best thing when they are togheter ..
2) make sure that after any mod you'll do the switch is still a little bit recessed in order not to be too easy to be turned on accidentally..
3) remember that you need the hole in the switch to take it apart!!

hope this help!! Good luck
F.

LEDAdd1ct · Apr 16, 2013

Thank you, Filippo!

FILIPPO · May 3, 2013

How is it going with 7c modding??

i have a question about spacers and i didn't want to create a new thread..

using screws as spacers is cheap clever and works well.. But what about resistence??? Do the spacer add a lot of resistence to the light circuit?? Do you think paralleling tail/top of the spacer with copper wire will be necessary for high current applications?? (Talking 5 Amps)

thaks guys!!

LEDAdd1ct · May 3, 2013

7C light is okay, but I am unable to reinstall the switch retaining ring.

I wish I had the special tool.

I am not sure how much resistance it added.

The screw I used was thick and heavy.

I would think there are (at least) two factors at play:

1) The resistance of the metal used
2) The surface area making contact at each end

The way those two factors play out would determine the total resistance.

I would say a copper tube would probably be lower resistance;
whether you need it or not I will leave to someone else to answer.

Please Help: Spacer Need...

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