Magnetic Control Ring vs. Quantum Tunneling Composite

snakyjake

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How is the Magnetic Control Ring (Sunwayman, Jetbeam) compared to Quantum Tunneling Composite (QTC) from Peak?
Functionality?
Durability?
Reliability?
Advantages/Disadvantages?
Annoyances?
 

gunga

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Magnetic control ring is better in operation and consistency. I like it much better. They are generally reliable but if they break down there is little you can do to fix them.

Peak's qtc is much simpler. The failure mode is max output so you won't be left in the dark. It is also much more efficient than control rings. The problem I find is that it is very touchy. It can work great initially, but breaks down fast, losing lower modes and just feeling lousy with poor output control. They don't have it working great yet. I think some small one off custom designs may work well, but on peaks it can be good or can be bad.

I still have a couple peaks, because if it breaks down, it's not too hard to pop the qtc out, clean off the broken bits and put it back. Then it works well again. Also, there are currently no aaa sized lights with control rings. I have many more lights with control rings.
 

Eneloops

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I am not a fan of QTC (Quantum Tunneling Composite) at all. I do not like fighting a physical barrier to turn my light on, or make adjustments. My V10r's magnetic control ring is in a whole different class. So smooth, and exact, not a rubbery sponge with particles of metal impregnated into it.
 
Last edited:

AaronG

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Gunga what mag control ring lights do you prefer most? I have a V10R Ti and it's awesome. I've been considering a Jetbeam of some kind and wondering how they compare
 

gunga

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I have 3 sunwaymans (v10r ti, v11r) and 2 jetbeams (rrt01, tcr1).

They are all modded with my own grease for smooth glassy feel. I find the feel is similar, but the jetbeams have ball bearing detents for a more solid stop and start feel. The ball bearing adds load to the ring, causing a little more grinding at times.

The Jetbeam tcr1 ring has much better grip than the ti sunwayman, but the knurled v11r ring is pretty equivalent to the rrt01. It all depends on if you want a tail switch. The jetbeams have no
Tail switch.
 

AaronG

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Thanks Gunga, I was considering the RRT-0 or maybe the titanium version if I can scrap up the funds (and then find one in the MP) I wasn't sure about the no button versions. Do you have accidental activation problems without the switch? Too bad they don't make a nichia 219 version of these lights. Also how did you relube the light? What type of grease? Thanks
 

gunga

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I have mine modded with neutral XML2 in mine. Would be nice to put in a nichia but I think it will be overdriven and believe the beam pattern is not great in the stock reflector.

You need to take out the emitter and circuit to open up the light. It unscrews in the middle, above the ring. Note, some have a lot of glue and maybe difficult or impossible to open.

I use a combination of damping grease from DX and from a friend long ago. It's a fine art for me.

:)

So far no accidental activation.
 

HotWire

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I EDC a V11R and a Peak with QTC. Neither has let me down. The V11R has a larger battery so longer runtime. The brass Peak I have is small and easily pocketed. Surprisingly bright!
 

AVService

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I have several Peaks with the QTC and did have the Jetbeam 001 and got rid of it.
I had the Jetbeam turn on in my pocket all the time somehow and seem to be one of the few that did?
I guess I have a lot more going on in my pocket than I realize but you only need this to happen one time at a high output to know it is not a good thing!

The QTC is not smooth and silky like the control ring and the level is not as infinitely adjustable and repeatable either but.....it is entirely workable and more likely to stay put where I want it too compared to the control ring units that I have held.
I am still happy that I found the Peak lights and carry a Logan a lot,when camping the other day I turned one down low and left it on for a few nights and the level and battery held there with no issue at all giving me a practical nightlight that I could just crank up too when I needed to.

I also like the Peak bomb proof feel compared to the control ring models and my SS Logan could hurt if hit with it.

If there was a control ring unit with a more positive off position I would likely get it but I am satisfied with the Peak the way they are too.

Ed
 

AaronG

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Thanks for the info. I love my light too much to tamper with it, but maybe someday I can sent it away for modding. I'm assuming that your talking about an XM-L light that you modded with a neutral? A nichia 219 is interchangeable with XP-G I believe. I have the V10R Ti without the huge output and XP-G so I think it would work. Do you know if the lower drive currents of using a cr123 would be within tolerance of the nichia? When you say that the beam isn't very good, is that replacing XP-G or XM-L?
 

gunga

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Hi there. I was talking about replacing the XML in a jetbeam with a nichia. I have 2 v10r tis that I have modded with nichia 219, it works well.
 

melty

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I have several Peaks with the QTC and did have the Jetbeam 001 and got rid of it.
I had the Jetbeam turn on in my pocket all the time somehow and seem to be one of the few that did?
I guess I have a lot more going on in my pocket than I realize but you only need this to happen one time at a high output to know it is not a good thing!

Are you talking about the RRT-01? I got one for my wife and it has a definite detent that holds it in the off position. It also has to be turned a fair amount (1/8 - 1/4 turn) before it comes on (at an extremely low level). I really don't see any way for it to turn on in a pocket... let alone turn all the way high. Maybe we are talking about different lights.

Anyhow, I like control rings for reliability and QTC for efficiency. I find the threads on my aluminium Peak Eiger to be too coarse for QTC (maybe SS is better), and although it works OK, it doesn't hold low levels steady (tends to gradually grow brighter). The Quantum D2 has much finer pitch threads that are much better at controlling QTC and holding lower levels at a constant brightness... it's still finicky though. Our RRT-01 is very reliable and holds output exactly where it is set, but the efficiency at low levels leaves something to be desired. Rechargeable batteries make it less of an issue.

They both have their strengths and weaknesses.
 

AVService

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Are you talking about the RRT-01? I got one for my wife and it has a definite detent that holds it in the off position. It also has to be turned a fair amount (1/8 - 1/4 turn) before it comes on (at an extremely low level). I really don't see any way for it to turn on in a pocket... let alone turn all the way high. Maybe we are talking about different lights.

Anyhow, I like control rings for reliability and QTC for efficiency. I find the threads on my aluminium Peak Eiger to be too coarse for QTC (maybe SS is better), and although it works OK, it doesn't hold low levels steady (tends to gradually grow brighter). The Quantum D2 has much finer pitch threads that are much better at controlling QTC and holding lower levels at a constant brightness... it's still finicky though. Our RRT-01 is very reliable and holds output exactly where it is set, but the efficiency at low levels leaves something to be desired. Rechargeable batteries make it less of an issue.

They both have their strengths and weaknesses.

Yep thats the one I said I had,I also mentioned that I seem to be the only person who admits to it turning on in my pocket?

Can't explain it really but it did. Repeatedly.

Ed
 

Bigmac_79

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I've never had a production light with QTC, but I played with modding a light with some, and like everyone says, it just seems like pretty touchy stuff that wears out quickly. It's fun to play with, but I don't think I could really count on a light to perform reliably with it. However, I won't be surprised if it does surpass magnetic control after a few years, if people keep working to develop the stuff into something more durable and reliable. It's much simpler than a magnetic ring setup, and could be implemented using much less space.

As for what control ring lights to look at, I've got several from SWM and they're all great. My EDC right now is V11R w/ HCRI emitter and a AA extender, and the control ring is the reason it's my EDC. The only thing that occasionally subs in for it is my EYE10 from Niteye, which I understand was pretty similar to the Jetbeam RRT-01. My EYE10 however has no detents, and the low can go all the way down to so low you can barely see it in a completely dark room, pointing it right at your face. This is the light I used most when my kids were infants, for checking on them or going in their rooms at night without waking them up. It really can go as low as anybody could possibly ask for.
 

gunga

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That's interesting. The main difference between the rrt01 and the eye10 is that the eye10 has 11 detents. I guess maybe they changed the design.
 

Bigmac_79

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That's interesting. The main difference between the rrt01 and the eye10 is that the eye10 has 11 detents. I guess maybe they changed the design.

My EYE10 is the TIC version, which has no detents. I also have an EYE15, which does have detents, and I find I don't like them much. It definitely doesn't go as low as my EYE10 TIC, and not even as low as my V11R.
 

Bigmac_79

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I do wish it had a bit more grip, but it always does seem to be enough. On the TIC version, it's still half smooth but the smooth and grippable areas are divided into alternating sections around the ring, so no matter how you pick it up you do get some grip.

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and typos.
 

IMSabbel

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The one light I had with QTC was BAD. As in very fragile, brightness jumps during selection, tons of force needed to get it bright, etc.

I think the problem is that a QTC _could_ be the best way for current regulation, but you would need to encapsule it, have good lateral guidance, etc. That would cost money, though, and create bulk. Which is why people design lights where the QTC is just being pressed against the battery bottom, which makes it basically a roulette with very short life time.
 

Fireclaw18

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The one light I had with QTC was BAD. As in very fragile, brightness jumps during selection, tons of force needed to get it bright, etc.

I think the problem is that a QTC _could_ be the best way for current regulation, but you would need to encapsule it, have good lateral guidance, etc. That would cost money, though, and create bulk. Which is why people design lights where the QTC is just being pressed against the battery bottom, which makes it basically a roulette with very short life time.

Agreed.

Proper way to do QTC would be to have it in it's own compartment with something like a miniature press. If done right there would be no torquing at all on the QTC. The only motion on it would be straight compression. The press could even have a bypass so that once the press is screwed in enough a connection is made apart from the QTC. This would give a hard-stop and certainty of getting max power without having to completely squash the QTC pill. With such a system in place the QTC pill should last far longer than simply pressing it against the end of the battery.
 
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