LilKevin715
Enlightened
Many CPF'ers use H22A's heatsinks for maglite mods due to the relatively straight foward and easy process to modify a maglite. Generally speaking its recommended to use a thermal epoxy/adhesive such as Arctic Alumina or Arctic Silver to secure the LED mcpcb to the heatsink pedestal. According to the manufacturer once the adhesive has cured/dried it is a "permanent adhesive" and "There is a very good chance that any components you attach with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever." Well I can tell you this isn't the case at all as you will find out shortly.
Looking at some of my mag mods from the past they are no longer the powerhouses they once used to be; its time for a upgrade. I didn't want to wait for new heatsinks to arrive so what should I do? All that I had to do was use some brute force with a small flat head screwdriver.
Push the small flat headscrew driver between the heatsink and the mcpcb (to act as a wedge) and it shoud pop off with enough force. As you can see the force of the screwdriver left a scratch on the heatsink pedestal (not deep). This isn't a big deal as when I mount a new mcpcb the thermal epoxy will fill any gaps. You'll probably create even more fine scratches when trying to remove the rest of the dried epoxy from the heatsink pedestal.
Current plans are to replace the "old"
XM-L T6 (2.8A) with a XM-L2 U2 (3.5A, sinkpad). Some of my other mags are getting upgrades as well.
I'm going to replace a XP-E R2 (1A) to a XP-E2 R3 (1.4A) and a XP-G R4 (1.4A) to a XP-G2 R5 (3A, sinkpad).
No freezer trick needed to make the epoxy brittle, just some good ol fashion elbow grease.
Looking at some of my mag mods from the past they are no longer the powerhouses they once used to be; its time for a upgrade
. I didn't want to wait for new heatsinks to arrive so what should I do? All that I had to do was use some brute force with a small flat head screwdriver.
Push the small flat headscrew driver between the heatsink and the mcpcb (to act as a wedge) and it shoud pop off with enough force. As you can see the force of the screwdriver left a scratch on the heatsink pedestal (not deep). This isn't a big deal as when I mount a new mcpcb the thermal epoxy will fill any gaps. You'll probably create even more fine scratches when trying to remove the rest of the dried epoxy from the heatsink pedestal.
Current plans are to replace the "old"
XM-L T6 (2.8A) with a XM-L2 U2 (3.5A, sinkpad). Some of my other mags are getting upgrades as well.
I'm going to replace a XP-E R2 (1A) to a XP-E2 R3 (1.4A) and a XP-G R4 (1.4A) to a XP-G2 R5 (3A, sinkpad).
No freezer trick needed to make the epoxy brittle, just some good ol fashion elbow grease.
