Trying to figure out how to replace a tailcap rubber boot.

SO many Surefires! i just got my first Surefire and its the Fury Dual Output, Im already trying to figure out how to get the tailcap rubber boot off so I can replace it with one of the green ones i got from darksucks.

any suggestions on how to remove it? thanks!

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

Surefire tail caps, if stock, have a rivet that needs to me removed (banged out through the OEM rubber with a punch) to replace the rubber. But I believe you will also need to replace the switch as well. Maybe upgrade it with a McClicky.

!!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

Everyone should have a clicky in their surefire, unless of course it is for tactical use but I'd guess at only a third of the surefires on this forum get regular tactical use.

I have a 6p and 9p both with mcclicky switches and love them

As for switch removal it's easy once you've done one.

Best way is to come to terms with the fact the boot is not salvageable, use a small ~2mm punch and hit it hard! Real hard. One clean hit is best I think

And a small pair of needle nose pliars to remove the plastic ring once you've boiled it

Jamie

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

jamie.91 said:

Everyone should have a clicky in their surefire, unless of course it is for tactical use but I'd guess at only a third of the surefires on this forum get regular tactical use.

Click to expand...

Every flashlight with a tailcap switch gets used in a tactical way by me....... in our flat and on my way in the basement.

Cheers
Thorsten

!!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

My point exactly, a forward clicky can still do the job of the original cap plus more, I think for me some of it is psychological, I like to have a fully tightened tailcap, don't know why, I just do, maybe it's to do with keeping it watertight 😝


Although lately I have been considering a ZeroRez so I can use a 17500 instead of 16340 in my l2m 😊
My pockets are empty this madness can't go on !

!!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

jamie.91 said:

My point exactly, a forward clicky can still do the job of the original cap plus more, I think for me some of it is psychological, I like to have a fully tightened tailcap, don't know why, I just do, maybe it's to do with keeping it watertight 


Although lately I have been considering a ZeroRez so I can use a 17500 instead of 16340 in my l2m 
My pockets are empty this madness can't go on !

Click to expand...

For roger technic and other tactical technic you need a momentary twisty, it won't work with a clicky.

As long the o-ring is engaged in the switch, the switch is watertight. (Not Less than fully screwed in)

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

jamie.91 said:

My point exactly, a forward clicky can still do the job of the original cap plus more, I think for me some of it is psychological, I like to have a fully tightened tailcap, don't know why, I just do, maybe it's to do with keeping it watertight

Click to expand...

How glad I am to be amongst like-mind people.... so I can confess..... I do have a Surefire 6P I got cheap at a local airsoft/knife store. Since I had no other use for it, I relegated it to o-ring lubricant testing. Every now and then I use it under the shower/submerged in the bathtub and so far it stayed dry inside, even when I twisted it on.

Cheers
Thorsten

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

jamie.91 said:

Everyone should have a clicky in their surefire, unless of course it is for tactical use but I'd guess at only a third of the surefires on this forum get regular tactical use.

Click to expand...

I tried a McClicky for a while, but I generally prefer the stock twisty.

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

jamie.91 said:

Everyone should have a clicky in their surefire, unless of course it is for tactical use but I'd guess at only a third of the surefires on this forum get regular tactical use.

I have a 6p and 9p both with mcclicky switches and love them

As for switch removal it's easy once you've done one.

Best way is to come to terms with the fact the boot is not salvageable, use a small ~2mm punch and hit it hard! Real hard. One clean hit is best I think

And a small pair of needle nose pliars to remove the plastic ring once you've boiled it

Jamie

Click to expand...

Man, this is my first real light and not even a week old...truth is im scared as HELL to do this "Bang HARD as hell!, and then boil it!" technique... anyway I could get pictures or a link that shows the step by step?

Im fine with the boot not being salvageable, but will I have to replace it with a new clicky or will the old clicky be usable?

All I want to do is put this sweet green gitd boot on! Any less invasive way to accomplish this?

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

Also since im going to scrap the stock "boot" anyways, would I be able to just cut it out and then slip the new boot into place?

Re: !!POST YOUR SUREFIRE COLLECTION!! II

sboonjue said:

Man, this is my first real light and not even a week old...truth is im scared as HELL to do this "Bang HARD as hell!, and then boil it!" technique... anyway I could get pictures or a link that shows the step by step?

Im fine with the boot not being salvageable, but will I have to replace it with a new clicky or will the old clicky be usable?

All I want to do is put this sweet green gitd boot on! Any less invasive way to accomplish this?

Click to expand...

Buy a Malkoff MD blemish tail cap for $15 (it has McClicky in it) and replace the boot. That way you can put the original boot back later if you want.

Re: Trying to figure out howreplace a tailcap rubber boot.

A Google search of CPF for How to replace switch boot.

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