HDS EDC & Sodium Hydroxide

Hey guys, I just wanted to post a picture of my clicky after a quick bath in sodium hydroxide. I couldn't seem to find any pictures prior of doing it, so this is really for anyone that may be thinking about trying it.

While some might like the anodization on their clicky, mine came to me with terrible anodization, and a good majority of it wasn't even anodized at all. I thought about sending it back to Henry, but I waited almost three months to receive it, and I didn't want to see what the turnaround would be (so FYI, I didn't even talk to Henry about it... So I'm sure he would've made it right)

The result is impressive. I used caustic soda to de-anodize some of my flashlights.

Looks nice. More details on how you did this, please.

In general, sodium hydroxide = caustic soda = lye - what was the source of your sodium hydroxide?

Interesting - I had no idea you could de-anodize stuff yourself so easily!

Something learnt

I used a $3.00 bottle of lye-containing cleaner called "Greased Lightning." No crazy process.... I just removed the clip, washed the whole light with a cheap toothbrush and soap (Dawn), then tossed it into the container with the cleaner. The cleaner is already highly diluted, and takes a little while, so you can keep an eye on it. It's good to know sodium hydroxide isn't usually caustic to rubber, so you shouldn't worry about the seals or boots.

Beware: It becomes addictive. It started with my high end yoyos, then my benchmade knives, and now I seemingly seek out anodized stuff just so I can remove it.

eightbitpotion said:

...washed the whole light with a cheap toothbrush and soap (Dawn)...

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Can you use sticking grease to preserve anodization in patterns?

While it sounds like a good idea, it should be known that grease + sodium hydroxide = soap. Don't take this to the bank, but you should be able to use a petroleum grease without adverse caustic affects. It's dangerous stuff, and after working with it for a while, it's best to say "you never know what it's going to react with." An example would be when I use a zip lock bag for deanodizing. It doesn't do anything to the bag, but destroys all of the printing on the bags within seconds. So I would try it on a test piece first. Make sure you do it outside too.... Some things it makes a strong chemical fume... I'm not too sciency, but it smells sweet and makes you almost pass out. Oh, and for whom it may concern, it also burns skin very badly (most will remember the sodium hydroxide/lye scene in Fight Club).

If you're successful at making patterns, be sure to post them, because that would be really cool.

eightbitpotion said:

It started with my high end yoyos...

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Please don't tell me you took off the splatter of a CLYY?

Looks good! I used oven cleaner to take the anodizing off some bike brakes with good results, but you definitely need to be careful about contact or inhalation as it's nasty stuff. I put mine in a ziploc bag and then sprayed the stuff in and sealed it up, you can then give it a rub through the bag and keep an eye on the progress.

Nah, I'm not a big CLYW fan. I will admit, I was eyeballing the new Summit for a while. I'm a diehard Werrd, ILYY, One Drop, and YoyoRecreations fan. A lot of people try to buff the metal, but using lye, you can maintain the texture (like bead blasted), which doesn't hurt the grinds.

I don't have a Werrd. ILYY, Spy, One Drop and HSpin (made in cheeseland). And the original Difeyo.

The results look good. Does the lye continue to dissolve the underlying metal once the anodizing has been removed?

Does the lye effect the lens in any way?

You should offer this service, I'd be interested

fyrstormer said:

The results look good. Does the lye continue to dissolve the underlying metal once the anodizing has been removed?

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Technically yes, but realistically no. It attacks the oxidized layer that is the anodization, and slows down to pretty much no caustic affects after it removes the oxidation. It should be thought a lot more like a chemical that eats rust off of steel.

I've left a yoyo in it for a very long time (like 15 hours or so), and it had ate a bit extra, but I can't emphasize how insignificant it is.... Probably .025mm or so, if even that. It went from way too tight of threading (axle squeeled terribly) to a fantastic threading that was just perfect.

I can't really think of any reason *not* to try this... My anno chipped/worn HDS 170 is going to look good naked!

Kid9P said:

Does the lye effect the lens in any way?

You should offer this service, I'd be interested

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No it doesn't. AR coatings as well appear unaffected. You can PM me about it if you want. I don't want to start a business, but we could work out something for a few lights. Just keep in mind that this doesn't work on steel, but I'm a perfectionist when it comes to polishing to a mirror finish.

yoyoman said:

I don't have a Werrd. ILYY, Spy, One Drop and HSpin (made in cheeseland). And the original Difeyo.

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I know it'll be impossible to derail the topic as the only two throwers on CPF, so I'll just go ahead and say you need to get a Werrd. Irony JP is my current favorite throw, and I foresee it staying that way for a very long time. Also, as a OD and ILYY fan, you should check out the Sakura SE.... I love the collaborations.

/derailment :3

msim said:

I can't really think of any reason *not* to try this... My anno chipped/worn HDS 170 is going to look good naked!

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Protip: Remove the clip, and lubricate the seals. Back the tail cap and mid-section off a bit so the ano can be attacked in there. I backed them off like 1/4th a turn so it remained sealed. If it looks like it quit working, it's because it has ano powder caked onto it. You have to pull it out and clean it with the brush. When you drop it back in, it'll look like alkaseltzer heh.

eightbitpotion said:

While it sounds like a good idea, it should be known that grease + sodium hydroxide = soap.

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Not necessarily. This IS true for greases which are esters (like fats, for instance). But not if the grease is a hydrocarbon (like your typical petroleum grease).

eightbitpotion said:

Protip: Remove the clip, and lubricate the seals. Back the tail cap and mid-section off a bit so the ano can be attacked in there. I backed them off like 1/4th a turn so it remained sealed. If it looks like it quit working, it's because it has ano powder caked onto it. You have to pull it out and clean it with the brush. When you drop it back in, it'll look like alkaseltzer heh.

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Thanks for the tips!