Maglite Mod

Simplicity05

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I'm starting from zero here, and trying to wrap my head around a Maglite mod. There's SO many threads and SO MUCH info that just getting into this is making my head spin. On top of it all, some of the pages and threads are a year or more old and have many broken links. I'm in need of a hand of guidance on the matter.

Reason for seeking this out: starting with a national trucking company soon that has a no-weapon policy,

I'll start with what I think I've figured out. Every single aspect of this is open to suggestion:

Need a host - I'm thinking either 2C or 2D mag. Would be buying brand new, probably from a local store. Target has 2D's for under $20 right now IIRC. I don't *think* I want to go larger because I question my ability to wield a 6D in the confines of a truck cab.

Need a bulb - pelican 3854 seems to be the one people like, but I see a ton of choices. I've also seen adapters, different bulb styles such as halogen, xenon, etc.

Need a new battery holder - I saw one video where the guy had D sized holders that could take 3 AA cells each for 4.5v per, and I saw many others with a 6AA holder.

Batteries - I'm not opposed to rechargeables, but I'd like something I could drop primaries into in a bind. Some other reading suggests the need for dummy cells? Also don't have a charger - starting from zero here.

Need a reflector - thinking MOP so if I needed it for any sort of utility I could have a somewhat smooth beam. What sizes do I need to fit the host and bulb?

Need a new lens - borofloat seems to be the recommended. Again, sizing?


Is there any way to regulate the voltage to get a consistent output as opposed to a diminishing beam?

I also would like a touch of longevity to the light, meaning I don't want to turn it on to show a friend and blow a bulb in 8 minutes.

Besides input, who does everyone like to buy from? In a perfect world I'd like everything to come from one vendor, but I understand that can't always happen.
 
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StarHalo

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- The only self-defense light is one attached to a Picatinny rail.

- You're not going to blind anyone with a Maglite, that's why you look directly into a Maglite to see how much juice it has left.

- Any incandescent light is going to blow the instant you strike with it, or drop it.

- You've chosen Maglite because it's cheap, but with even a few of the mods you've listed, you'd more than double the price.

Since you know you can't use it to defend yourself, it'd be better to buy a flashlight to fill the role of flashlight - something durable but inexpensive, takes common batteries, is bright for doing inspections/walking at night, but can dim so it won't blind you in the cab. Check out the MiniMag Pro+, 2xAA with 250 lumens (that's brighter than a 6D incandescent Mag,) $30.
 

Turk.919

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That's odd, they dropped right in mine. Maybe it was bored out

If someone told me that I couldn't use a maglite as defense I'd laugh at them... To their face.

I'm not gonna derail the thread 'cause I need help finding reflectors too. But if someone were coming at me and I had a 5d I'd beat the snot out of them with it and not care about the bulb. It's $1 for one and can be changed in 20 seconds. Your not going to beat a mag to the point where it won't work besides breaking a bulb. Kinda why officers carried them, some still do.
 
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Admiralgrey

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Kaidomain has a variety of cheap "m*g" reflectors. Of course Fivemega has the best reflectors.

3584 bulbs are a great route, the H bulbs indeed can be a bit fragile, but the L bulbs are indestructible, both in terms of voltage and physical impact.

You will need a 52mm lens... I have had no trouble with heat and the cheap glass ones from the five packs on KD.

As for cells, li-ion cells will eliminate the carriers and their added resistance, while also offering greater power density than NiMH AAs.
2 x 18650 unprotected will fit in 2c with sleeve. Protected cells are too long without a spacer.
2 x 26650 will fit in a 3c while still allowing a spare bulb... it must be bored if it has a C in the serial.
2 x 26650 will fit in 2d with sleeve and recessed tail spring.
 
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Simplicity05

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So you're thinking 3584L and 2x unprotected 18650 in a 2C host? What is commonly used for the sleeve? If I wanted to go protected, what advantages would there be and what would I need to do to make it work?

Going malkoff - what sort of output are we talking from going that way?

Edit: how do I go about boring a light if that ends up being an option?
 
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Admiralgrey

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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you go with the 2C you can have almost the same capacity with 18650's, but 26650's will hold their voltage better under heavy load. I won't delve into protected/unprotected merits as those have been intensely debated in other threads.
Tightly rolled paper makes a light and effective sleeve. The 2C tailcap must be deanodized inside to make contact. A coiled up peice of wire or wad of tinfoil can make the connection.

[/FONT]I used a 10$ brake hone from Amazon "[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Powerbuilt 648403 1-1/8-Inch Length Brake Cylinder Hone 2 Arm 1/2-Inch to 2-1/2-Inch Diameter"[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]It was all the way to the small end of its adjustment range, so a smaller one may work better. Afterwards I smoothed with sandpaper so it wouldn't wear the wrappers.
The best part is watching a cell slowly disappear down the tube due to the suction tight fit.

My 3C with 3854-L, King Kong 26650's and an FM Deep is currently my favorite flashlight. Just perfect. I only wish Jimmy's regulators fit in C mags.
[/FONT]
 

Simplicity05

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Any way to secure that into the tube? 2 part, hot glue, superglue, a wad of big league chew? I'd think there's something you could do.
 

get-lit

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Simplicity05, a truck is a high place to accidentally drop and break a light. I drop my lights often but never from that high. I've had one break from just a 3 foot drop, maybe less. Probably should consider impact resistance in your case.

Forgot to mention, you may also want to consider a crenulated bezel or tailcap to keep it from rolling away on the ground when changing a tire. Something waterproof as well.
 
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M@elstrom

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Any way to secure that into the tube? 2 part, hot glue, superglue, a wad of big league chew? I'd think there's something you could do.

PVC pipe cut accordingly although rolled cardboard has been used before (not my preferred option).


Can I just get a clear answer as to why you cannot speak about a flashlight being used as a defensive tool?

Permitting discussion related to acts of violence (albeit self defence) is a slippery slope the Forum I imagine would rather avoid...


Acknowledging this is an incandescent forum (and I share the passion for incandescents) I would concur with the previous suggestions of an LED modded Maglite for the following reasons...


  • Maglite construction quality (as a project base)
  • Availability of parts both stock and custom
  • Durability of an LED vs. more fragile filament lamp
  • Run times better even more so with a multi mode configuration
  • Available upgrade path should a better emitter be released
  • Flexibility of battery options


I have carried a P7 3D size for years and although primarily a back up light it's the one I grab when heading into unknown territory or alarm responses and will attest to this format's reliability, ruggedness and awesome beam profile :thumbsup:
 

Simplicity05

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I'm not specifically tied to incan. I'm just looking for the brightest, strongest mod that can be put into a 2C/D or 3C/D host. Goal is to be unbearably bright should someone be looking into the beam. However I get to that goal is just fine by me.

Anyone know a brick and mortar that still sells C hosts?


Simplicity05, a truck is a high place to accidentally drop and break a light. I drop my lights often but never from that high. I've had one break from just a 3 foot drop, maybe less. Probably should consider impact resistance in your case.

Forgot to mention, you may also want to consider a crenulated bezel or tailcap to keep it from rolling away on the ground when changing a tire. Something waterproof as well.

Any suggestions?
 
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Simplicity05

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See I was standing in a Walmart earlier tonight and all they had were 2D and 3D hosts. Hrm.
 

superadobo

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I have a 3854-H Roar of Pelican sitting on my shelf and i love it. I made it about 4 years ago and turn it on once in a while. Maglite 2d, pvc sleeve, UCL lens, kai domain lop metal reflector and reworked tail spring. Its about 1350 bulb lumens. To this day, i still never fails to impress, but really, thats all it's good for.

Like any hot-wire, it generates lots of heat, i've seen mine smoke paper. It would be terrible to accidentally turn on while in your bag, or rolling around under your seat as you drive thus causing a fire. I would not use it to strike anything/anyone due to popping the bulb. Don't get me wrong, i don't mind swinging the maglite like a madman, but if i need light after im done bashing something, i want the light to turn on after. I know the maglite will survive, but the bulb may not.

I know this is the incandescent forum but for what you are suggesting the light for, i would build an led type maglite. I think the maglite is an awesome platform to begin a build with. I have had my 2d maglite for over 10 years and its still kicking. It started off as a regular 2d maglite, then a ROP hi, ROP low and now has a malkoff led drop in. If i ever succeed in breaking the maglite, i just need to buy another one for $20 and switch the led, battery's over to the new host, and "alakazam" i got a new flashlight. I've dropped, kicked, stepped, driven over, fallen off the car, lost in the ocean for over an hour and the light just keeps going. I've lent it to co-workers who have abused it and it still works. If the led ever needs servicing, i can send malkoff and he can get me running in no time. I'm not saying you need a malkoff, it's just the brand i have been using since 2008 and the module still works. There are many DIY threads or modders that can create you one. You can have a 230 lumen LED or a 700 lumen or a 1000+ lumen LED as your choice.

So it's up to you. In my experience, the ROP's are great "wow" lights but i wouldn't use them for service where they will be subject to harsh handling.
 

Justin Case

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Any way to secure that into the tube? 2 part, hot glue, superglue, a wad of big league chew? I'd think there's something you could do.

I would not use any material like what you suggest above. High powered incan lamps can generate a lot of heat.

A workaround, if you are interested in an LED setup, is to hold the Mag in the overhand or police grip. Typically, you then run the light using your index or middle finger, not the thumb as in the underhand grip. If the Mag were moved kinetically in an arc and happens to contact an obstacle that may or may not be made of organic material, causing the light to suddenly decelerate, the inertia of the heat sink will be downward into the Mag tube. So you won't have any problems with the heat sink trying to come out of the tube. However, if you are hammering something using the bezel end, perhaps because you don't have enough space to use a regular hammering swing to drive a nail or whatever sort of target you want to visualize, then inertia may cause the heat sink to slide out of the top of the Mag tube.
 

Norm

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I've locked heat sinks using three evenly spaced grub screws through the battery tube into the heat sink.

Norm
 

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