Surefire etc. - what's the diff between SF Z59 and McClicky?

N8N

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Subject is basically my question... if I want to use a multi-mode drop in, or just be able to turn the light on without twisting the tailcap, is there any meaningful difference between the Surefire Z59 tailcap and a McClicky? Or should I just keep my eyes open for a good deal on either and get whichever is less expensive?

It appears that both are forward clickys so I'm just wondering what sets the two apart - I'm assuming there must be a difference otherwise the McClicky wouldn't have been developed.

thanks!
 

Cereal_Killer

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The electrical path. The McClicky can handle up to 5A (above 3 and the spring will heat up but that's ok).

On a less important note you have the option to take the McClicky apart and swap different boots to your taste (GITD, different colors, different stiffness')
 
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N8N

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Oh, OK, so the McClicky is heavier duty but if my plans are to use LED drop ins and/or original P60 incans then I shouldn't have a problem with either?
 

Cereal_Killer

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There's nothing wrong with the Z59, like everything surefire its already way over engineered so yes it'll be fine. I'd say the mcclicky kit is mostly used simply for the clicky conversion, only a small amount of people using them are pushing crazy amps.

Plus when people get to that level they can step it up even more with the oveready Zero Rez kit, a solid brass switch contact that totally deletes the spring from the equation.
 
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JCD

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The Z59 is a lockout tailcap. The McClicky switch, mounted in a Z41 shell, does not lock out. For some people, the lockout feature is critically important. For others, it doesn't matter at all.
 

Moddoo

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The Z59 is a lockout tailcap. The McClicky switch, mounted in a Z41 shell, does not lock out. For some people, the lockout feature is critically important. For others, it doesn't matter at all.

This is not true.

A Surefire Z41 with our McClicky kit does lock out just like the stock setup or a Z59.
 

JCD

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This is not true.

A Surefire Z41 with our McClicky kit does lock out just like the stock setup or a Z59.

Interesting. My McClicky does not lock out. The light can be switched on until the threads are completely disengaged. A stock Z41 locks out normally on the same host.


McClicky switched on, with threads barely engaged. Notice location of O-ring relative to the tail cap.
 
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Tana

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McClicky is just better... can withstand more amperage while creating less resistance compared to Z59... plus, fitting it with OR McClicky pack in Z41 shaves couple of mm's off of the whole length of tailcap/host...

Is it worth the upgrade ??? If you have Z41, definitely... if you already have Z59 and don't plan to use high output module, then you're fine... But I do believe that McClicky is more reliable... I've never heard of one failing whereas I did her few Z59 go bad... though it's covered with SF warranty...

And both setups lock-out normally...
 

N8N

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OK next question... does a Malkoff MD series tailcap fit a Surefire and is it the same switch as a McClicky - that looks like what I really want and it's not the expensive. No, I don't have anything but a Z41 right now. thanks for all the replies!
 

Tana

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Might and might not... depends on the length of the module spring and it's stiffness... MD series tailcap has same threads but the top of the spring is little deeper compared to both Z59 and OR McClickied Z41 so you might not have good contact between module / batteries / McClicky in MD tailcap... Module like EDC+ X60L has longer spring and it would work... M61 has small curly contact and is not long enough...

Plus... you might have 2mm gap between body and MD tailcap when tightened all the way (not a big issue)... and finally, MD cannot be locked out, threads are not anodized and make electrical contact with body even when unscrewed half way...

Hope this helped you a little...

If you want suggestion, visit Oveready and get McClicky with MediumPress boot and brass contact ring...
 

DellSuperman

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Interesting. My McClicky does not lock out. The light can be switched on until the threads are completely disengaged. A stock Z41 locks out normally on the same host.


McClicky switched on, with threads barely engaged. Notice location of O-ring relative to the tail cap.

All my McClicky on my various light/tailcap combo will disengage & cut off the moment i unscrew the tailcap slightly.
Not sure why yours could be like that..

- JonK
 

JCD

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I didn't realize my McClicky behaved oddly. I don't guess it matters, as it lives in the corner of a box. I've found that I prefer a twisty to a clicky.
 

el_Pablo

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I didn't realize my McClicky behaved oddly. I don't guess it matters, as it lives in the corner of a box. I've found that I prefer a twisty to a clicky.


If the threading inside the tailcap are not anodized or damage, its enought to make a eletrical path, and cancel the LOTC fonction
 

ElectronGuru

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Many excellent replies here. A bit more info and summary:

The McClicky switch was designed to retrofit the original twisty only E series tailcap.

It was only later adapted to other uses, including the Z41 by way of kit, creating the McClicky Kit

The Kit began life as alternative to buying a whole new Z59 for the many lights that came stock with Z41

At the time, Z41 were quite cheep, as everyone wanted to replace them. This has since reversed.

The resulting assembly is smaller than the Z59 and works with other tailcaps that are modeled on the Z41.

The way the kit compresses the boot against the back of the cap is more water tight than caps that install the switch from the outside.

Most switches route power through the same spring that pushes back against the button. The McClicky spring pushes a solid bar, that itself conducts the current (think draw bridge). This provides greater amperage and less resistance than switches several times larger. However, even high wattage bulbs won't tax the Z59 that hard, provided the voltage is high (9+). Where switches get into trouble is when fewer batteries are pushing less volts, creating more amps.

Lockout is a function of cutting off power (current flow), when the kit disconnects from the bottom of the body (unscrew). This depends on good coating on the inside of the cap to then prevent power from then flowing cap threads <-> body threads.
 

justlooking

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I'm surprised no one has commented on the 'feel' of the two options. To me, a McClicky'ed Z41 is easier to operate than a Z58 or Z59, because the rubber boot sits slightly higher in the Z41. I feel like I have to get my thumb positioned on the boot to press it down 'into' the tailcap end more than with the McClicky. (Not the best description, I know, but try both, you will see what I mean.) I also prefer soft-or medium-press boots on my McClickys. Just my observations.
 

N8N

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Agreed, I just haven't replied in a while because I haven't bought anything. I definitely am filing all this discussion away for future reference when I feel the need to "improve" my 6P. Before fiddling with switches I got myself a Malkoff Nichia drop in; that has now made it my favorite flashlight, although I probably use my Fenix E11 more just because the latter pretty much lives on a carabiner with my keys; can't do that with a 6P :)
 

N8N

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I finally got back to this - not in any small part because I find myself gravitating towards using my 6P now that it has a 219 drop in in it, it just looks nicer than my Fenix lights - and dropped Gene an email. Not surprisingly he got back to me in a couple hours and said yes the Malkoff tailcap will fit a 6P body. So I ordered one of his blemished ones - my 6P is already quite patina'd so as long as it is functionally OK I'm fine with that.

I will be sure to report back as to whether there's any noticeable gap or weirdness with it vs. the Z41 when it gets here, but it looks like the most economical option to get me what I want - a clicky rather than a twist-on switch, plus the ability to tailstand.
 

HotWire

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I have basically 2 kinds of lights: (1) SF collection (which I prefer to keep all SF) and (2) user lights. I prefer the McClicky on the user lights. I've boiled many Z41s & installed McClicky switches. Don't use the twisty much, but understand why it is widely used.... There is also a choice of hardpress/softpress Mclicky boots.
 

tobrien

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how does one know or observe the stock Z59/41 being destroyed by too much current? will it discolor the metal or melt it or what?
 
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