Lumens Factory D26-LED 3 Mode LED Module XP-G R5 (3.6V-13V) in Surefire 6P

amlim

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Hope I posted in correct forum.

Mods - please help me to move this if this is the wrong forum.

I am thinking of getting this drop in module for my 6P.

Am I correct thst I need a clickie tailswitch to use tbe 3 modes?

Thanks in advance.
 

AVService

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I don't think so. It should work in any case.

As long as the light sees switching it should work whether it is a click or twist.

I have one of their drop-ins for the E series and it works fine either way so I would think it will be the same.
 

Tana

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It's a very nice module and you should be happy, for $28-30 total... very efficient buck driver, capable of running multiple cells, 50% output at single Li-Ion cell for even longer runtimes, very nice UI with 1 second memory when off, not pushed too hard (1.1/1.2A to the LED on high) and great runtimes in all three modes...

Upgrade to the switch is per your own will... you can change modes with twisty but it's easier control with clicky... either find Z59 or upgrade your Z41 with OR McClicky switch (better solution)...
 

amlim

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Any idea which one is better or recommended?

a) D26-LED 3 Mode LED Module XP-G (3.6V-13V), Warm White: 90-CRI - -Warm White, Warm Colour Temperature (2600K-3200K)

b) D26-LED 3 Mode (Low-Mid-High, Mem) LED Module XP-G R5 (3.6V-13V) - Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)

I am guessing (a) produce light that looks more like an incan?

Thanks
 

Tana

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Depends on which tint color you really like, honestly... Warm White is usually rather nice, no chances to get dissapointed with the tint as long as you're OK with ORANGE tint color... VERY close to incan, maybe few hundred K's warmer...

As for cooler tint, there is always a chance you might get one that might seem greenish to your eyes... it was greenish to my eyes, but my wife didn't mind that tint at all, she uses that one as backup light in kitchen...
 

JCD

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Upgrade to the switch is per your own will... you can change modes with twisty but it's easier control with clicky... either find Z59 or upgrade your Z41 with OR McClicky switch (better solution)...

Personally, I find mode switching with a forward clicky to be obnoxiously awkward. I'd rather use a twisty or a reverse clicky for multi-mode lights. Others prefer forward clickies, which is a perfectly valid and understandable opinion. Different strokes for different folks. The OP should try to remain openminded as he determines which switch type is right for him.
 

JCD

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Any idea which one is better or recommended?

a) D26-LED 3 Mode LED Module XP-G (3.6V-13V), Warm White: 90-CRI - -Warm White, Warm Colour Temperature (2600K-3200K)

b) D26-LED 3 Mode (Low-Mid-High, Mem) LED Module XP-G R5 (3.6V-13V) - Warmer Colour Temperature (5000K-5500K)

I am guessing (a) produce light that looks more like an incan?

Thanks

My (single mode) Lumens Factory high CRI XP-G drop-in is pretty much the only white LED I use anymore. It's not the brightest one I have, but it's otherwise superior to the rest of my white LEDs.
 

Tana

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Personally, I find mode switching with a forward clicky to be obnoxiously awkward. I'd rather use a twisty or a reverse clicky for multi-mode lights. Others prefer forward clickies, which is a perfectly valid and understandable opinion. Different strokes for different folks. The OP should try to remain openminded as he determines which switch type is right for him.

Twisty to do mode switching preferred over forward clicky ??? You DO have some strict and unique aspects of life and habits you're following, gotta admit you that... OP might like it your way also, who knows... majority of people relies on clicking for mode changing, and I believe forward clicking is at least one step ahead as there are not many reverse-clickies capable of withstanding currents of 5A, like McClicky does... if there were, it would be different, probably...

But OP should (and will) remained open-minded as you're suggesting which is the reason he's asking for advice in the first place... we then share our personal/subjective advices based on our own experiences and experimentation on which then he will form his own, decide which is worth trying, etc... I couldn't care less if he goes any other route than our suggestion, honestly, as threads are made for everybody, we all read and we all learn more stuff from original OPs questions so it might not help OP but it might help a newbie or lurker... I know I've learned my share just by lurking on CPF for 6 months before I posted my first post...
 

JCD

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Twisty to do mode switching preferred over forward clicky ??? You DO have some strict and unique aspects of life and habits you're following, gotta admit you that.

Allow me to explain why I don't like forward clickies on multi-mode lights. It's only ever an issue when I'm on my bike, but that's my primary use for a light, so that's when it matters most.

When I switch on a forward clicky light, my first instinct is to full-click it on because most of my lights aren't multi-mode. That's great if the mode I want is the first mode, but if I want a different mode, I can't soft press to get there. It's wasted motion and a wasted click on a switch that wears out under normal use. It isn't optimal.

With a reverse clicky, I can turn the light on and soft press to my desired mode quickly and easily. This convenience, of course, means there is no momentary on functionality, but that doesn't matter to me.

With a twisty, I can soft press to my desired mode and then twist for constant on, or twist on, back off slightly, twist back on, etc. I typically use the latter method, because the primary advantage of a twisty for me, though, is that the tailcap acts as a dashboard knob when the light is mounted to my handlebar. A knob is much faster and easier to locate and operate, especially with one hand off the bar, without looking compared to a clicky switch.

Off the bike, my most used multi-mode light has two switches, both of which must be on for the light to function. It has a forward clicky tailcap and a rotating dial near the bezel for mode selection (and off). I never use the tailcap switch; it stays clicked on. I just use the rotating switch. It's better than all of the above (for underhand use). :D

I believe forward clicking is at least one step ahead as there are not many reverse-clickies capable of withstanding currents of 5A, like McClicky does.

To be fair, there aren't many forward clicky switches that can handle that current, either. Fortunately, the LF drop-in the OP mentioned doesn't require such high current.
 
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Tana

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Allow me to explain why I don't like forward clickies on multi-mode lights. It's only ever an issue when I'm on my bike, but that's my primary use for a light, so that's when it matters most.

When I switch on a forward clicky light, my first instinct is to full-click it on because most of my lights aren't multi-mode. That's great if the mode I want is the first mode, but if I want a different mode, I can't soft press to get there. It's wasted motion and a wasted click on a switch that wears out under normal use. It isn't optimal.

With a reverse clicky, I can turn the light on and soft press to my desired mode quickly and easily. This convenience, of course, means there is no momentary on functionality, but that doesn't matter to me.

With a twisty, I can soft press to my desired mode and then twist for constant on, or twist on, back off slightly, twist back on, etc. I typically use the latter method, because the primary advantage of a twisty for me, though, is that the tailcap acts as a dashboard knob when the light is mounted to my handlebar. A knob is much faster and easier to locate and operate, especially with one hand off the bar, without looking compared to a clicky switch.

Off the bike, my most used multi-mode light has two switches, both of which must be on for the light to function. It has a forward clicky tailcap and a rotating dial near the bezel for mode selection (and off). I never use the tailcap switch; it stays clicked on. I just use the rotating switch. It's better than all of the above (for underhand use). :D

To be fair, there aren't many forward clicky switches that can handle that current, either. Fortunately, the LF drop-in the OP mentioned doesn't require such high current.

Oh, don't get me wrong, you're right for the most part, if not all... first of all, it is personal preference; forward clicky, reverse clicky, even twisty... It's my subjective opinion that more people use forward clicky with multimodes compared to other two... but without a poll it's hard to say for sure... Reverse clicky does give that ability to turn modes by simple tap instead of click/click (or even click/click/click, depending on mode memory config)... the twisty is the "harder" part where you need either very practical fingers on hand or both hands to effectively swap modes... :)

Again, when this particular module is in question, any Solarforce tailcap with reverse clicky will perform just fine...
 

BigBluefish

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I had the D26 3-mode warm white and it was very nice. I little warmer (more yellow/orange) than an incan, but a tint I prefer to the cool or neutral LEDs. I also still have the LF single mode XP-G warm white in a 6p, and it has a simialr beam pattern and tint, but I believe it is driven a little harder (brighter) than the high on the 3-mode version.

The 3-mode will work fine in the 6p, if you can deal with the momentary/twisty tailcap. For general use, it's probably fine.

Another drop-in you might look at (if you haven't already purchased the LF module) is the EDC+ XM-L drop in. I have a 3-mode with a T4 warm white (not quite as warm as the LF XP-G. Also very nice, with not quite as much throw, but more output, so it's kind of a wash.
 

Brasso

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I'm not trying to push you away from the LumensFactory module, but why not order one from Nailbender? He has many more options for the same price and they are hand built, potted, and come with copper tape all for about $35 shipped. You can pick just about any emitter, tint, cri, power level, number of modes, etc that you want.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...white-XRE-XPE-XPG-XML-U3-NICHIA-92CRI-PART-11
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?342254-New-Cree-XP-G2-P60-Replacement-Modules
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...P7-P60-dropin-Modules-for-Sf-product-(part-4)
 

amlim

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I'm not trying to push you away from the LumensFactory module, but why not order one from Nailbender? He has many more options for the same price and they are hand built, potted, and come with copper tape all for about $35 shipped. You can pick just about any emitter, tint, cri, power level, number of modes, etc that you want.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...white-XRE-XPE-XPG-XML-U3-NICHIA-92CRI-PART-11
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?342254-New-Cree-XP-G2-P60-Replacement-Modules
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?248771-XPG-modules-plus-SST-50-90-amp-MCE-P7-P60-dropin-Modules-for-Sf-product-%28part-4%29

Hi there,

Thanks for the suggestion. I am a dummy when it comes to LED drop-ins.

I took a look at the thread and had an instant headache. So many options !! Wow !! :eek:

But shipping is expensive for me at $12 as I am in Singapore.
 
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