It has been a long time since we were taught to build flashlights and buzzers in grade school and I learned about Ohm's Law and Magic Smoke shortly after that. As others have suggested, a vehicle with a CANBUS system uses multiple computers to monitor multiple systems. The Germans especially seem to take joy in monitoring the exterior lights on a car. (Cadillac used fiber optics back in the 70's so the driver could actually SEE if the bulbs were on!)
The way these systems work is by sensing the amount of power that the bulb socket is drawing, and that in turn depends on the resistance of the bulb assembly. Whether it is tungsten or halogen or LED, it has a specific resistance range. When a tungsten bulb burns out, the resistance is infinite and the current (power) consumption is zero. When the bulb is "cold", but good, it will have a very low but real resistance, which changes as the bulb turns on and the filament starts to glow. For a "20 watt, 12 volt" bulb, Ohm's Law tells us that power equals voltage times current, so 20 watts of power at twelve volts will mean the bulb is drawing about 1.6 amps and has a resistance of 7.2 ohms. (Google Ohm's Law, it calculates a lot of these relationships.) Actually, the bulb will draw different amounts of power at 14.4 volts, running the engine, than it does at 12 volts, engine off, as well.
But an LED? The resistance changes radically depending on the direction (polarity) of the voltage. And the LED works differently, it only wants to see a specific voltage, like three volts, and anything more blows it out. So either you gang several up (3 x 4 = 12 volts) to share the voltage, or you add load resistors (cheap) or power controllers to restrict the power to the LED (expensive) in other ways. They can get complicated if you're trying to get the real details right. Yeah, any idiot can cook a hamburger, but do you know how to make a really good one? Starting with a real live cow? Right, a little more complicated.
Anyway, some light control computer is looking at that power draw and saying "Gee, this bulb is only drawing 0.2 amps, it should be drwing a full two amps...there must be something wrong here!" and turning on the idiot light. A literal IDIOT LIGHT because it isn't smart enough to understand the change in bulbs.
The entire mystery is because some automakers--mainly the Germans--want to bury you in FUD and convince you there is magic and high technology in their cars (sometimes there is some) instead of just telling you "Yes, our system needs to see a value of five to ten ohms on the bulb socket, or it will throw an error code." Exact numbers vary with each system, many time a 10 ohm load resistor works, sometimes it get more complicated than that.
And plenty of LED vendors are glad to charge you $50 a bulb because they can also pretend there's magic. And they want some profit, for having done the homework. Sometimes.
So, no reason, no advantage, to buy "CANBUS" compatible bulbs, unless you need them. Will they work? Probably. But they won't be any better than any other bulb, and they can fail in more creative ways. Must be dinner time again...don't buy the live cow if you only want a hamburger!