Triple parallel nichia 219s in series.

Hi all,

Just a super quick random project before I go camping this week - trying to build an additional area floodlight. I have 2 super powerful ones already, but I want a high CRI light as well. Because I can :devil:

I'm trying to use odds and ends I have laying about. These are:

• 3 triple 219 emitter PCBs. They are wired in parallel.
• 3 NANJG 2.8A 7135 drivers.

Is there anything wrong with powering each triple star of a single NANJG driver, and connecting all 3 drivers in series to a 12V battery? As BAT+ goes directly to LED+ on 7135 based drivers:

BAT+ > LED_GROUP_1 > DRIVER_1 > LED_GROUP_2 > DRIVER_2 > LED_GROUP_3 > DRIVER_3 > BAT-

So in the case of DRIVER_1 and DRIVER_2, their GND connection will actually go to the LED+ of the next LED string.

Will this work?

- Matt

If they all run at the same power level and nothing shorts out, and the maximum voltages are ok. What's the Vinput maximum of that driver?

The driver can handle 6V max. In series they'll see 4V each (probably closer to 4.15v each off a car battery).

I guess I'll find out soon

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Sounds like a fun project, what enclosure are you using?

netprince said:

Sounds like a fun project, what enclosure are you using?

Click to expand...

Probably an old halogen flood light that I modified a few years back (actually my first ever LED project!). I don't have anything else really.

You only need one driver. run two off the emitter boards in series with it and power supply.

Like this..........http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?201392-Poorman-Mutli-Lux-setup-method

I made a triple Nichia module, wired series and used a 1.4A amc driver powered from 3 RCR's in an L2M+E18. I used this method and it worked great.

think2x said:

You only need one driver. run two off the emitter boards in series with it and power supply.

Like this..........http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?201392-Poorman-Mutli-Lux-setup-method

I made a triple Nichia module, wired series and used a 1.4A amc driver powered from 3 RCR's in an L2M+E18. I used this method and it worked great.

Click to expand...

Oh I forgot about that!

So each star can be treated as 1 emitter as they are parallel wired. 2.8A into a 3-emitter star yields 933mA. The voltage drop across each star is 3.4V (approx.). If I use the poor mans method:

BAT+ > LED_STAR_1 > LED_STAR_2 > DRIVER > LED_STAR_3 > DRIVER > BAT-

I am using a SLA battery that fully charge (never run while charging) is 12.8V. Worst case:

12.8V > 9.4V > 6V > 2.6V > 0V

The problem is the AMC river is two circuits in one. Effectively it's a MCU in parallel with a few AMC7135 chips. The MCU will see 6V. The ATTiny13A can handle 5.5V max. I will have to modify it a bit to accommodate the increased voltage. I'll use the MTG2 method I saw in another forum.

Do tell about this MTG2 method......link?

Mattaus said:

So each star can be treated as 1 emitter as they are parallel wired. 2.8A into a 3-emitter star yields 933mA. The voltage drop across each star is 3.4V (approx.).

Click to expand...

Yep.

Mattaus said:

I am using a SLA battery that fully charge (never run while charging) is 12.8V.

Click to expand...

3xRCR = 12.6V max and 11.1V nominal. Should be within driver specs.

Mattaus said:

The problem is the AMC river is two circuits in one. Effectively it's a MCU in parallel with a few AMC7135 chips. The MCU will see 6V. The ATTiny13A can handle 5.5V max. I will have to modify it a bit to accommodate the increased voltage. I'll use the MTG2 method I saw in another forum.

Click to expand...

If you run from the battery to the first 2 serial emitter clusters first they act as a built in resistor (in a way). From there to the driver and then the last emitter cluster, should keep the driver voltage in spec. I worked fine on mine.


BTW: The reason I'm interested is, my next Mag build is hopefully going to be a 2D/3x26500 running 9 Nichia's.

The MTG2 'mod' actually just protects he MCU when running voltages higher than it can handle. You replace the reverse polarity diode with a 200ohm resistor, and piggy back a 4.3V zener diode on top on the input capacitor. The zener basically acts as a crude voltage regulator and drops any voltage over 4.3v to ground. Apparently the 7135s, if heatsinked properly, will handle the extra voltage no worries. People have built some pretty serious MTG2 lights using this setup...4A+. Crazy lights

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