Eagtac SX25L3 VS Thrunite TN30 in throw and brightness

Hello,
I hope this is the right place to put this thread.

I have the eagletac SX25L3 and i like it, but am considering selling it to get a thrunite TN30. Does anyone have or compaired the two side by side? Is there any noticable difference in throw and brightness (or flood). I am buying one of the k40's from vihn, so i will have the thrower in my collection.
Thanks for any help
trevor

ncvarmint said:

Hello,
I hope this is the right place to put this thread.

I have the eagletac SX25L3 and i like it, but am considering selling it to get a thrunite TN30. Does anyone have or compaired the two side by side? Is there any noticable difference in throw and brightness (or flood). I am buying one of the k40's from vihn, so i will have the thrower in my collection.
Thanks for any help
trevor

Click to expand...

It depends on if your SX25L3 has the XM-L2 U2 or the MT-G2 PO LED.

The MT-G2 has similar lumens (2700 L), but its rated at 25.1K cd.

The XM-L2 has 1,505 L, but its rated at 53.9k cd.


The TN30 is rated at 3,600 L and 42k cd.

So neither SX has the total lumens, but the MT-G2 version is somewhat close...but has ~1/2 the throw. The XM-L2 SX has a bit more throw, but ~ 1/2 the lumens.



It comes down to what you are trying to accomplish, but, overall, the TN30 is definitely going to give more flood either way, and won't be a slouch in throw.

Forgot about that it is the MT-G2version
trevor

ncvarmint said:

Forgot about that it is the MT-G2version
trevor

Click to expand...

I have both. I really like the smaller size of the E.T. The Tn30 does throw farther, get the diffused lens for the E.T. It is almost like a mule with it. Great flood and still keeps some throw, becauae of the pure power.

How about et Sx25l3 vs tn30 vs tk75.

I am liking the TN30 right now, as i tried a diffuser on the eagletac and it seemed to take away too much light, but did make it floodier. How is the beam on the TN30 lights
trevor

I have both lights. The TN30 in Neutral White and the SX25L3 with the MT-G2.
To me the TN30 beam is a mess. Flower petal, propeller blade looking artifacts in the spill.
A hollow dark ring around the corona. I wouldn't have bought the light if I knew it was this bad.
The SX25L3 on the other hand is a winner in my book.
Beautiful tint, compact (about half the size of the TN30), side switch with instant turbo access from the lower modes (my favorite UI).
The beam quality is pretty much flawless, it transitions from hotspot to corona to bright spill about as good as you can get.
The TN30 has a wider flood and can throw close to twice as far.
But the beam quality/tint and size of the Eagletac makes me reach for it all the time.
I think if you want a LED flood with throw light that is a killer, get the Vinh modded TK75.
It's being offered on the CPF marketplace section right now for $21.00 more (shipped) than if you were to purchase one from the Fenix sites. Note: Not including discount codes.
He gets it at a good price because he buys in bulk.

makapuu said:

I have both lights. The TN30 in Neutral White and the SX25L3 with the MT-G2.
To me the TN30 beam is a mess. Flower petal, propeller blade looking artifacts in the spill.
A hollow dark ring around the corona. I wouldn't have bought the light if I knew it was this bad.
The SX25L3 on the other hand is a winner in my book.
Beautiful tint, compact (about half the size of the TN30), side switch with instant turbo access from the lower modes (my favorite UI).
The beam quality is pretty much flawless, it transitions from hotspot to corona to bright spill about as good as you can get.
The TN30 has a wider flood and can throw close to twice as far.
But the beam quality and tint of the Eagletac makes me reach for it all the time.
I think if you want a LED flood with throw light that is a killer, get the Vinh modded TK75.
It's being offered on the CPF marketplace section right now for $21.00 more (shipped) than if you were to purchase one from the Fenix sites. Note: Not including discount codes.
He gets it at a good price because he buys in bulk.

Click to expand...

TN30 type lights are not meant for close up white wall shots, as the beam has not had enough distance to collimate yet. All the flower petals, etc, go away when the light is used at appropriate distances.



And, Vinh's stuff does seriously rock.

TEEJ said:

TN30 type lights are not meant for close up white wall shots, as the beam has not had enough distance to collimate yet. All the flower petals, etc, go away when the light is used at appropriate distances.



And, Vinh's stuff does seriously rock.

Click to expand...

Actually, I can still see all the artifacts when I take it outside.
You would think that it's supposed to disappear, but I can still see it.
Only when you use it at the really farther distances does it disappear because the spill thins out.
I notice that tri reflectored lights that have the LED's clustered closer to the center that also has a low bridge connecting the reflectors have that beam characteristic.

LOL

I guess if outside is at less than the range at which it collimates, sure.

Normally, for actually seeing things, say at the 50-300 meter distances its most useful at, the artifacts that you can make out at close range are gone/rendered irrelevant.

To me, a donut hole would be a big problem for example, but, stuff on the periphery is typically not an issue in practice.

If you like large round smooth beams, especially at less than 50 m, etc, the single LED lights would probably work better. The MT-G2's I've tried are really nice in that regard....for a strong but floody hotspot.

You can also achieve round smooth beams with multi-LED lights such as the NiteCore TM26.
Or tri-reflectored lights such as the NiteCore TM15 and BTU Shocker.
Both of which have the LED's spread out farther from the center so it almost looks like the reflectors are individual although they are not.
They also have that high connecting bridge which I think prevents a artifact filled beam coupled with a more centered LED reflector bowls.
They do have very slight bumps on the outer fringes of the spill, but no artifacts in the beam.
I guess it depends on what your shining your light on if you have a artifact filled beam.
If you're aiming towards a bunch of trees and bushes in the forest, you probably won't notice anything.
But if you're sensitive like me to such things and light up a large grassy area in a park, I'll notice it.
It's similar to people who are sensitive and bothered by PWM. I can't see it at all.
So Teej, don't teach me how to look for PWM, I want it to remain a mystery to me. LOL

makapuu said:

You can also achieve round smooth beams with multi-LED lights such as the NiteCore TM26.
Or tri-reflectored lights such as the NiteCore TM15 and BTU Shocker.
Both of which have the LED's spread out farther from the center so it almost looks like the reflectors are individual although they are not.
They also have that high connecting bridge which I think prevents a artifact filled beam coupled with a more centered LED reflector bowls.
They do have very slight bumps on the outer fringes of the spill, but no artifacts in the beam.
I guess it depends on what your shining your light on if you have a artifact filled beam.
If you're aiming towards a bunch of trees and bushes in the forest, you probably won't notice anything.
But if you're sensitive like me to such things and light up a large grassy area in a park, I'll notice it.
It's similar to people who are sensitive and bothered by PWM. I can't see it at all.
So Teej, don't teach me how to look for PWM, I want it to remain a mystery to me. LOL

Click to expand...

LOL

Some mystery is good.

I do love the TM26 you mentioned as well.

The PWM is a good analogy, I know what you mean. (But won't explain it)