14mm Copper Stars Available Anywhere?

ExtremeSeries · Sep 29, 2013

Hi,

I am planning on a Maglite 2D mod. So far I have some heatsinks from H22A couple years back. I have been reading on the benefits of copper vs aluminium stars but I cannot find a 14mm copper star. Anyone knows where to get them?

Thanks in advance.

LilKevin715 · Sep 29, 2013

A 16mm sinkpad or noctigon mcpcb can be filed down easily. I used a noctigon for a mod mag with a H22A heatsink as shown below (click to enlarge).

ExtremeSeries · Oct 1, 2013

LilKevin715 said:
A 16mm sinkpad or noctigon mcpcb can be filed down easily. I used a noctigon for a mod mag with a H22A heatsink as shown below (click to enlarge).

I wish I could do what you did, but my DIY skills are very poor. I destroyed my first Maglite reflector on my first build and now it is sitting there for years. Would hope to try to do it with a more risk free approach now.

Btw, can I ask if copper MCPCBs are really very beneficial if I am running a single XM-L2 on about 3A?

Thank you.

DellSuperman · Oct 1, 2013

ExtremeSeries said:
I wish I could do what you did, but my DIY skills are very poor. I destroyed my first Maglite reflector on my first build and now it is sitting there for years. Would hope to try to do it with a more risk free approach now.

Btw, can I ask if copper MCPCBs are really very beneficial if I am running a single XM-L2 on about 3A?

Thank you.

Just buy a file & slowly file the edge till it fits.
Get a multimeter to check for shorting just to be sure.
And buy a few pieces of the copper MCPCB so if u fail the first time, u have spares to try again.

If running at 3A, a regular aluminum MCPCB will do the job but of course a copper one will perform much better..

- JonK

Epsilon · Oct 1, 2013

Check out my maglite builds in my signature, those are made with h22a heatsinks or similar. If you use a rebel reflector, the PCB doesn't need to be trimmed down.

ExtremeSeries · Oct 3, 2013

Epsilon said:
Check out my maglite builds in my signature, those are made with h22a heatsinks or similar. If you use a rebel reflector, the PCB doesn't need to be trimmed down.

I have the classic maglite. Any idea where I can get some cheap replacements? Thanks in advance.

Epsilon · Oct 3, 2013

I which I knew, lots of people are looking for reflector replacements

. Normal reflectors are no problem, the rebels however are.

ExtremeSeries · Oct 4, 2013

Epsilon said:
I which I knew, lots of people are looking for reflector replacements . Normal reflectors are no problem, the rebels however are.

Can I assume the only difference rebel reflectors have compared to the classic maglites' is just having a 16mm opening?

Epsilon · Oct 5, 2013

Rebel reflectors are parabolic and a lot deeper than standard maglite reflectors (which I think are eliptic for hotwire).

The opening is around 12mm or so, the same as standard maglite reflectors.

LilKevin715 · Oct 5, 2013

Epsilon said:
The opening is around 12mm or so, the same as standard maglite reflectors.

The Mag incan reflector has a hole opening of 15.4mm, the LED reflector (Rebel/XP-E models) has a opening of 13.1mm.

The focal point of the LED reflector is lower compared to the incan reflector. This means more than likely a mcpcb doesnt need to be trimmed down to fit through the opening of the reflector. The deeper LED reflector wont work properly (in stock form) with your older H22A heatsinks that are meant for a incan mag reflector. The heatsink LED pedestal on the older H22A heatsinks are not recessed deep enough into the body tube.

ExtremeSeries · Oct 5, 2013

Thanks a lot for all your replies! I have two more beginner questions but I am not sure if I should post within this thread.

1. Will cheap glass lens at DX/KD be any better (as in allowing more light to pass through) than a new (unscratched) stock lens?

2. Has anyone's Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive turned yellowish/brownish? Mine did and I am not sure if it is still usable. If I need to get another set, is the Fujik glue at DX comparable in terms of performance?

DellSuperman · Oct 5, 2013

ExtremeSeries said:
Thanks a lot for all your replies! I have two more beginner questions but I am not sure if I should post within this thread.

1. Will cheap glass lens at DX/KD be any better (as in allowing more light to pass through) than a new (unscratched) stock lens?

2. Has anyone's Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive turned yellowish/brownish? Mine did and I am not sure if it is still usable. If I need to get another set, is the Fujik glue at DX comparable in terms of performance?

1) There will be a difference, but not too much that you can see a difference. Unless you use a light meter yo take measurements.

2) Mine hasn't turned yet, so I'm not too sure. But DX or FastTech Fujik glue works well (at least for me)... And its cheap too. Haha.

- JonK

Epsilon · Oct 6, 2013

LilKevin715 said:
The Mag incan reflector has a hole opening of 15.4mm, the LED reflector (Rebel/XP-E models) has a opening of 13.1mm.

The focal point of the LED reflector is lower compared to the incan reflector. This means more than likely a mcpcb doesnt need to be trimmed down to fit through the opening of the reflector. The deeper LED reflector wont work properly (in stock form) with your older H22A heatsinks that are meant for a incan mag reflector. The heatsink LED pedestal on the older H22A heatsinks are not recessed deep enough into the body tube.

This guy is correct, the older heatsinks do not work with the rebel reflector unless you modify it (like I did). It has to be recessed deeper in the maglite (that why I removed the rim all together).
Forgot about that one

.

And thanks for the exact measurements of the reflector openings.

14mm Copper Stars Available Anywhere?

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