Not so mini's mini review of Jetbeam TCR10 and comp - pics heavy and long winded

aau007

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
448
So I have nothing else to do this morning and decide to post this. I have no scientific equipment to measure anything and everything in here is just an end user findings.

First the pictures:
Fully dressed with all the options that came with the light

IMG_2786.JPG


How the light came in with the tube with no other options installed

IMG_2788.JPG


Length of the light with optional tail spike but no AA extension

IMG_2790.JPG


Length of the light with optional tail spike and AA extension

IMG_2791.JPG


Picture with AA extension and the Nitecore clip

IMG_2792.JPG


Picture with no extension and the Nitecore clip

IMG_2793.JPG


Another view of no extension and the Nitecore clip

IMG_2794.JPG


Picture of the light with no clip, no options installed

IMG_2795.JPG


Closeup of the body grip

IMG_2797.JPG


Closeup of the fins and ring

IMG_2798.JPG


Here are few images to compare. They were all taken at 1/160, F2.8 and white balance set to FL lighting. These are the closest I can get to with what I actually see 5ft from the wall that manage to see the outer spill rings. Interestingly, the lower I set the shutter speed, the more rings I would see and differ from what I actually see. If I set the shutter higher, the outer rings won't show.


This the TCR10

IMG_2815.JPG


This is the beam shot of a TCR1

IMG_2816.JPG


This is the beam shot of a rrt01

IMG_2817.JPG


The above beam shots were taken just to show the different beam patterns among the 3 lights and no way trying to show the brightness.

Now my comments:

Touch and feel. Just like other Jetbeam Ti lights, the cutting is excellent with no visible machining marks. There is plenty of Ti in this light and it does not feel flimsy. It is a bit heavier than the TCR1. It is a bigger light than the TCR1, however. The shinny surface are highly polished but you can still tell they polished it horizontally. I say the polishing is on par with JB's prior Ti lights. The granade style knurling and the patterns on the control ring are cut a little sharp comparing to the TCR1. Some might claim more grippy and some might say too sharp. The control ring does have a little play but so does every single one of my magnetic control ring lights. Mine has less than 1mm of horizontal play when I push it from side to side and that is very acceptable to me. The ring turns with a very secured feel. Not very loose and the detents are very solid that you won't miss. In fact, the ring turning is tight enough that if they smooth out the sharp edge, you will have to grip very hard on the ring so as not to slip. The threading on the body tube uses square threads. Though not as smooth as AL, it is not coarse from a Ti standpoint. I have other Ti lights that sound like you are grinding sand when you turn them. I do like to use with the AA extension. With the size of my hand and the AA extension installed, all the knurlings, including those on the extension, fits on my last 3 fingers gripping the light. Then with my thumb and index to turn the control ring. Using with the AA extension also allows me to quickly swap in any AA sized battery if the 14500 runs out.

Features. The light came preinstalled with a short clip. I am not a clip person and when I took off the clip, there is some binding marks left on the light. Oh well, not much I can do about it. I may be able to polish them away. The light does not tail stand due to that little spike sticking out about 3/8 of an inch. I also don't like how their short clip either rubs against the lower edge of the head and the knurling part of the AA extension when installed. If you try to take off the AA extension from the body with the clip on, you will hear that clicking sound as the clip runs across the knurling. Therefore, with or without the AA extension, I don't like the original short clip. I tried putting the longer Nitecore clip on it to see if anything changes. Not much, difference except is just rubs on a different undesired (by me) parts. You can see from pics above. Now the tail spike. This is probably what I considered the worst feature of the light. The light already comes with a little spike at the end and Jetbeam offers an optional push on/pull off tail spike. The optional spike has an o_ring inside, supposedly to make it stay on the light better but in no way fully secured. If you thread the lanyard to the little spike, the optional spike won't go on. Then the optional spike also has a lanyard hole but I would NEVER lanyard to the optional spike, attach to light and carry. The light will almost gaurantee to come off if you carry it by the lanyard. So how should I carry the optional spike with me so that it is always close to the light, not scratching the light, easy to put on and take off, with or without the lanyard? I still have not figure this after 3 days. Not sure if I ever will.

Lighting and related functions. By now, everyone knows this light does not win the bin prize. It is warmer than the TCR1 and rrt01 with a bit of green tint. Very noticeable if you put the TCR1 and rrt01 side by side to it, though not as bad as the once TCR2 I returned. That one was green color, not tint. At least this one is warmer. Look at the bright side, now your grass can look greener too, not only your neighbors'. The three level brightness are spaced apart very well. Very noticeable brightness from each one. Some may want to have an additional low low like a moonlight mode but that's a personal preference. The red/blue are on the same detent next to off. You toggle between red and blue by going off/turn ring left/off/turn ring left sequence. The color strobe seems to be white/red/red/red/blue/blue/blue in sequence. All I can see is white flashs once, multiple red flashs and multiple blue flashes. Not so keen on the color and color strobes but it is probably a feature carry over from Nitecore. It is there and on the other side of 'Off' so you don't have to turn the ring to that side if you don't like it. At least they design the sequence that way so you can use the 3 brightness levels alone without touch onto those color/strobing features. The spot/spill has a ring or two but not as bad as the TCR1. Consider this is a SMO reflector, it is only slightly behind the rrt01, which has an OP reflector. This light does throw better than the TCR1 and rrt01. Not sure by how much but it does. If I have to estimate, I would say about 20% better. I have a lux app on my Android phone and the numbers reflects that 20% at about 18" away. The lux app on my phone is obviously not as accurate and I only use it to compare relatives.

I think that pretty much covers it for my mini review. If you want to know anything more, I will be happy to tell as much as I can, given if my time allows. Overall, I think this light lives up to JB's usual/historic quality. Whether it is worth $200 is up to anyone's judgement.

This mini review obviously contains facts and personal opinions. If you find my facts wrong, point them out. If you don't agree with my opinions, you can speak up but don't attack me because opinions are just that, opinions. You don't have to agree with me. I won't try to persuade anyone either way.
 
Last edited:

aau007

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
448
Here comes the kicker. May not be a secret to some but thought I would mention it here.

IMG_2818.JPG

IMG_2819.JPG



The AA extension from TCR10 does physically fit onto the rrt01 and TCR1. However, due to the thread length and the anodizing on the rrt01, it does not make the required electrical connection, thus no light. It is the body tube threading not long enough for the bare AL edge to reach the Ti part to make the connection. I suppose if you remove some anno on the threads of the body tube, that will make it connect. It works perfectly with the TCR1 and gives the TCR1 the AA size capability. Tried Eneloop, alkaline and AW IMR14500 on TCR1 with the TCR10 AA extension and they all light up. Although using Eneloop and alkaline on the TCR1, it is not so bright due to the voltage. But when you are in a bind for some light, any amount of light helps.

I roughly checked the AA extension (I don't have a caliper but checked using my ruler) and because of the narrowest part of neck is only about 16mm OD, there is no way the inside can be bored out to 18mm. Therefore, stacking 2 AA extension to use 18650 on either rrt01 or TCR1 is out.
 
Last edited:

Fbygden

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Messages
71
Location
Sigtuna, Sweden
Thank's for a great review!
You more or less put good words (and pictures) to my thoughts about the light also.
Strange, I didn't get the additional spike, though I'm not sure if I actually would like to have it.
 

shelm

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
2,047
what's the purpose of the little spike, what's the purpose of the big spike?

can you remove the little spike so that the light tailstands?

thanks for the review!
 

aau007

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
448
what's the purpose of the little spike, what's the purpose of the big spike?

can you remove the little spike so that the light tailstands?

thanks for the review!

Seems to me the little spike serves 2 purposes. 1. for the lanyard. 2. as a pole to insert into the optional tail spike.
The big optional spike is more a self defense, glass breaking tool. If you sharpen the tip, it can do some pretty serious damage to whatever you hit it with. Just like the good ole long attack bazel ring for some other JB lights, you can use those to cut some flesh out of any mammals. With this tip sharpened, you can poke some serious hole out of many things, including some metal sheets (like that thing you steer in and out of your garage everyday).

What I saw from another forum. The little spike is an integral part of the tail cap that screws onto the body tube using Loctite. Someone forced unscrew that and it reveals the battery spring so the body tube becomes open-ended on both sides. So yes, if you remove the little spike with the tail cap, the light will tail stand but won't light up anymore. Won't do you much good I guess. :D

If you insert a right sized Allen wrench with some rubber padding thru the lanyard hole, you should be able to break the tail cap loose without damaging the material.

If you don't care much about the little spike and being able to put on the optional spike, guess you can remove the tail cap and cut off the little spike to half way down the lanyard hole. It will make it just a little shorter that the three flanges on the side. Do not cut off the entire little spike. Otherwise, you will have no lever to screw the tail cap back into the tube.

IMHO, this is a bad design. JB could have made the little spike larger and longer so it looks like when you have the optional spike on and just eliminate the optional spike feature. Otherwise, go another way and remove the little spike/optional spike feature and make the light tail stand. I believe they picked the worst combination.
 

shelm

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
2,047
thanks. now i am getting the full picture.

i will try to buy one sample too!
 

LeGranDuc

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 23, 2011
Messages
6
Just got mine today.
A excellent little light with plenty of output.
The machining on this is very good. (Just as if i machined it myself.)
The only marks i can see is on the tailcap. The tailcap is not polished, and has been turned at a high feedrate.
I bought it to use it as my new EDC light.
 

Alfred143

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Messages
113
Location
Bay Area, CA
Anyone else have a firm control ring that unscrews the battery piece when turning the light on??
Let's just say, one hand operation is out of the question.
 
Last edited:

RetroTechie

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2013
Messages
1,007
Location
Hengelo, NL
IMHO, this is a bad design. JB could have made the little spike larger and longer so it looks like when you have the optional spike on and just eliminate the optional spike feature. Otherwise, go another way and remove the little spike/optional spike feature and make the light tail stand. I believe they picked the worst combination.
Yep, much better is a camera attachment hole and a spike that screws in there, like with Sunwayman C10R/C15A. With eg. a car glove box light, it could be useful to leave a spike attached. But expensive lights like this are used elsewhere so it should be easy to remove.

Btw. for breaking car windows, "sharp tip" is what matters, not the size of a spike.
 

cyclesport

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
676
Just curious...did anyone grab one of the TCR10's at Illumination Supply at 1/2 off for $100 recently at their Jetbeam sale? I thought when these were released just 6mos ago they would see some discounting within a year but man...50% off blowout sale after 6mos!? They sold out whatever they had within a few days but apparently still have some current gen #2 (XM-L2) RRT-01s at 1/2 off/$44.50 as well....IMO a better deal and a better (tinted) light.

I have a couple of RRT-01s and always thought it was one of the better mag ring lights otherwise I'd probably get one at that price.
 

Alfred143

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Messages
113
Location
Bay Area, CA
Just curious...did anyone grab one of the TCR10's at Illumination Supply at 1/2 off for $100 recently at their Jetbeam sale? I thought when these were released just 6mos ago they would see some discounting within a year but man...50% off blowout sale after 6mos!? They sold out whatever they had within a few days but apparently still have some current gen #2 (XM-L2) RRT-01s at 1/2 off/$44.50 as well....IMO a better deal and a better (tinted) light.

I have a couple of RRT-01s and always thought it was one of the better mag ring lights otherwise I'd probably get one at that price.

Yes, I was able to grab the 50% off deal for the TCR10. But my control ring is mega stiff.
Also love my RRt-01 too :)
 
Top