Clicky switch torment/Bikes and Clickies

tubed · Oct 15, 2013

Forgive me, but this post involves 2 different issues with tail-clicky switches that have recently come together for me. Fixing a broken tail clicky switch and do Bikes and clicky switches not get along.

I have a nitecore MH25 that has a complex tail clicky UI (i.e multiple modes via clicky). It started out ok, but then deteriorated progressively. All the bad things. Changes modes, skips modes. Interestingly, I always seem to end up in a blinky mode. Also – I think it is supposed to be a forward clicky but most of the time I depress the button, nothing happens, sometimes it works. Is there anything that can be done to try to fix this? I've heard that mode changing can occur if contact is broken with springs and I checked them but they appear normal. Also, this happens with light completely still. The endcap was fully tightened.

Next – I've been starting to bike at night and for light I have been using a variety of my lights on a holder (2fish). I never realized how much jarring went on until I did this. Every little bump is transmitted right to the light. As you might guess, the nitecore was a disaster, cycling through modes, turning off, etc. Only if I twisted the head to turbo does it work. But even more interesting, I had troubles with my reliable 4-7s Quark 123 (also a complex tail clicky light) changing modes on the bike. Here are my questions for the group:

1. Do tail clicky switches and bikes not play well together?
2. Should flashlight reviewers whack the light around a bit to see if it changes modes or flickers?
3. Can I be confident that if I get a new light like a SC600 (electric switch) or an Eagletac G2C2 (twisty switch), this won't happen.
4. Any bikers out there want to comment?

gravelmonkey · Oct 15, 2013

tubed said:
Forgive me, but this post involves 2 different issues with tail-clicky switches that have recently come together for me. Fixing a broken tail clicky switch and do Bikes and clicky switches not get along.

I have a nitecore MH25 that has a complex tail clicky UI (i.e multiple modes via clicky). It started out ok, but then deteriorated progressively. All the bad things. Changes modes, skips modes. Interestingly, I always seem to end up in a blinky mode. Also – I think it is supposed to be a forward clicky but most of the time I depress the button, nothing happens, sometimes it works. Is there anything that can be done to try to fix this? I've heard that mode changing can occur if contact is broken with springs and I checked them but they appear normal. Also, this happens with light completely still. The endcap was fully tightened.

Next – I've been starting to bike at night and for light I have been using a variety of my lights on a holder (2fish). I never realized how much jarring went on until I did this. Every little bump is transmitted right to the light. As you might guess, the nitecore was a disaster, cycling through modes, turning off, etc. Only if I twisted the head to turbo does it work. But even more interesting, I had troubles with my reliable 4-7s Quark 123 (also a complex tail clicky light) changing modes on the bike. Here are my questions for the group:

1. Do tail clicky switches and bikes not play well together?
2. Should flashlight reviewers whack the light around a bit to see if it changes modes or flickers?
3. Can I be confident that if I get a new light like a SC600 (electric switch) or an Eagletac G2C2 (twisty switch), this won't happen.
4. Any bikers out there want to comment?

I used to use a Fenix LD20 on the bars with a generic 2fish style lockbloc mount- It was a while ago now, but I can't remember having have too many problems as long as the head was loose by about 1/2 turn.

ZL SC600 is absolutly fine on the bars (other than the fact I've grown tired of the hot-spot bouncing up and down every time I go over a bump). I'm looking for a way to helmet mount it at the moment.

FWIW- I'm riding a rigid SS on packed dirt trails with the usual holes and roots to play with.

Re. Problems with the MH25, make sure the contact areas are clean, try the 'paperclip test' to isolate it as a switch problem and make sure the retaining ring inside the tailcap is tight.

tubed · Oct 15, 2013

thanks for the input.
I'd love to make an SC600 my bike light - floody, access to strobe, good size. Any other - less expensive, recommendations?
Why did you loosen the head on the LD20 ? (mentioned in your post).
Any of your lights ever change modes while bumping around?

reppans · Oct 15, 2013

Lights that use a tight/loose bezel UI (eg, older LD series and Quarks) have a sensing ring to determine the tight bezel position. If the head is screwed too close to the tight/loose line, then jarring or bending combine with thread play, will change modes between loose and tight bezel modes, unscrewing further moves the batt tube further away from the sensing ring so tight bezel mode cannot be activated. Another possibility is that your spring is weak and the battery jiggling can momentarily break electrical contact acting like a half press of the clicky, or the retaining plate inside your clicky is loose and should be screwed down tighter with needle nose pliers or a two prong tool.

I use a Quark in a perpendicular Twofish Lockblock for the handlebars and parallel Lockblock on my helmet (velcro'd through a vent on top of the helmet).

( I prefer mechanical clickies to electronic switches, esp in tough conditions, since they're field serviceable and at least by-passable)

zs&tas · Oct 16, 2013

its been a long time since ive been here but i cant ignore a bikers call !
firstly get a good mount like the big fenix mount - nice and solid. or you can use a bike bar extension and have the flashlight mounted on the bars then further foward on the extension.

clickys ok but you really need springs at the positive and negative ends inside .
i find a torch that dosnt use head twist for mode changes better as then you do not have the head loosened and moving around with all the vibrations.
Side switch is the way to go really for ease of use and reliability. the sc600 is a great choice - i dont have one but keep eyeing it up.
i run two lights normally, one floody (im using a surefire c2 solarforce xm l) and one for throw (olight m20 xp g2).
i know lots of people find the nitecore ec25(?) cobra a good light for this use, its small powerfull not too expensive.

CaptainBrock · Oct 16, 2013

Definitely a thumbs-down on the TwoFish for mounting a light. Too rubbery and wobbly. I tried out the type below with fair success:

I mounted the flashlight in the direction OPPOSITE shown in the picture. This worked but I was not entirely satisfied placing the entire mass on the handlebar and the beam was somewhat narrow.
I concluded that there is no substitute for a well-designed bike light. I am using my NR Pro 1500 Race and I wear the Quark Tactical QT2A Gen 2 in its holster for backup.
I stick mostly to the horse-trail but occasionally go out in mountain-lion country for a sunset ride and return in the dark.

tubed · Oct 16, 2013

thanks for all the input.
Right now i'm not riding too much at night so trying to limit expense - the two-fish works ok but i get what you mean.
A couple of you seemed to suggest twisty swtiching not good. - One light i'm close to buying is the Eagletac G2c2 (mostly for boating). It has a kind of hybrid control ring thing where the light changes to 4 different modes by losening the head.
Do you all think this might be a problem?
Reappans - which quark?
Zs&tas - thanks but i think i'm done with nitecore. that probably would work with its side/electric swithch

I may start another thread on what's the best combo-bike and other light.

zs&tas · Oct 19, 2013

tubed said:
thanks for all the input.
Zs&tas - thanks but i think i'm done with nitecore. that probably would work with its side/electric swithch

QUOTE]
no worries, thats just one example , there are plenty of side switch lights out there, Captain - im using them too, cheap and they work , they just dont fit some of my lights though.

larcal · Dec 8, 2013

Tubed, did you find a solution? I ride regular in dark and have been quite pleased with both fenix ld20 and ld22 and no problems like yours. Would second what another has said. Make sure the ring inside tailcap is tightened with needle nose turn ccw. Use the Fenix lamp holder. Af2?

Find 22 much better then 20 tho. with the 20 it is very hard to change light levels with that subtle tap on rear button when bike and you are moving, so end up just leaving in turbo when 3 is enough so must recharge more often. also the ld22 has a memory and I like to turn light off often so when i switch on again no fussing with mode.

tubed · Dec 9, 2013

I sort of found a solution.
I recently got a Zebralight SC600 on sale - its the older version of the new version

. So I got it for about $60.
This light has an electronic switch and wide floody beam. I think it will be good - haven't used at night yet.
I just need to figure out how to get it quickly to strobe for times when i'm in heavy traffic or dangerous situations.

Clicky switch torment/Bikes and Clickies

tubed

Enlightened

gravelmonkey

Enlightened

tubed

Enlightened

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast

zs&tas

Flashlight Enthusiast

CaptainBrock

Newly Enlightened

tubed

Enlightened

zs&tas

Flashlight Enthusiast

larcal

Newly Enlightened

tubed

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