Click/Twist - Click/Click...Let the debate begin

mcarter1463 · Nov 6, 2013

This has been bugging me for awhile. A Tactical light is supposed to have a momentary clicker and twist for constant on. A Non Tactical light uses a clicker for momentary and constant. In my opinion, that is backwards. Why would I remove my hand from my weapon to twist my light in my other hand, when all I need to do for constant is to press clicker once more. Can this be explained or is it just a matter of preference. From what I have read there is no TRUE tactical light because any light can be used tactically. Different companies use the word tactical for all types of switches. From what I see, the word "tactical" will add $15 to $200 to the price of a light. Sorry if this sounds like a rant. I have always had a problem with deceptive marketing. Im still waiting to be served the BIG MAC that looks like the one in the pics they show us. LOL

TEEJ · Nov 6, 2013

Its a meaningless term really...used for tactics? That's pretty vague.

My own use of the light in what I might consider a "tactical" situation, IE: one in which I might be in a firefight...means I want momentary to pop and move, or at least click on/click off, and, I do NOT want a twisty, as, that means two hands to control the light, or, digital gymnastics while I'd RATHER be concentrating on other things....and I want it to come on in high, not firefly, not whatever it was on last...HIGH.

I MIGHT want a strobe, but, if it has strobe, I DON'T want to have to scroll around to it...I want it on NOW.

I WOULD like some lower modes available to look at paperwork/provide low light for less obvious maneuvering, etc.

I want it weapon mountable and to work great with a remote.

So far, the Klarus XT11 is actually about as close as I've gotten.

BillSWPA · Nov 6, 2013

When I am using a light for defensive purposes, the last thing I want is the light giving the bad guy more information than it gives me. That is the risk one runs when using a light in constant on mode, or possibly even unintentionally clicking it on. I want to quickly illuminate an area, deactivate the light quickly, and then move to the next area. Leaving the light on for more time only risks drawing fire. In an unusual circumstance where I need constant on, I can just press and hold the momentary switch. For this reason, I prefer a momentary tail switch that is twisted for constant on.

I do want strobe up first for maximum OODA (Observe, Orient, Decide, Act) loop disruption and concealment of my movement.

Furthermore, a momentary only switch has much less danger of accidental activation when carried in a pocket with other junk. If it becomes pressed, it will shut off as soon as the pressure is released. If a clicky is accidently pressed, it stays on until I notice something getting hot in my pocket.

For an EDC light, I do like lower modes so that I do not have to use blinding, battery draining light output for the mundane tasks for which the light will be used most often. However, this is not an absolute necessity. I have usually carried a keychain light - currently a FourSevens Mini CR2 - as a backup light and for use when I do not need/want super high output.

Having said this, I have been carrying and using lights with forward clicky switches for some time without major issues. If the light does accidently click on, I can usually get it clicked off reasonably quickly.

After 15 years of carrying one Surefire or another, I am currently carrying a FourSevens Quark 123 Tactical (predecessor to the QT2L), set for strobe with the bezel tightened and high with the bezel loosened. This light has a partial shroud over the tail switch. I find that if my thumb overlaps the shroud on both sides of the tail switch, accidently clicking the light to constant on will usually be prevented.

TEEJ · Nov 6, 2013

I also see that guys who patrol with a light on prefer the click on/click off UI, as its a PITA to hold the button in for hours, etc.

Guys that only pop the light on for a quick "Who goes" prefer the momentary/dead man switch. My compromise is the clicky that is momentary if you don't go all the way, and stays on with a full click. That avoids the entire twist the head to adjust the output crap.

I do use twisties though too, I just don't like dropping or taking a dip with a partly unscrewed light into a stream or whatever and wondering if water's leaking in because the head is not tight. Same for locking out with the tail cap unscrewed...water integrity concerns.

Lights that accidentally turn on in my pocket or on my belt, etc, are not an issue for me, at least in practice for hard use stuff. I do have EDC stuff that is NOT tactical, as I DON'T want a light that only comes on in high to see what I dropped on the floor at the theater, etc. I have had a few pocket rockets that warmed my pockets for me...but I typically figure out how to prevent it.

The other issue is beam pattern.

Sometimes you want a tight assed beam that only lights up the target and not the neighbor's windows or your buddies postions, etc....and sometimes you want a flood of "SHOW ME EVERYTHING OUT THERE IN ONE SHOT".

Of course, if things are actually that critical...I have the FLIR and or night vision out anyway...and the flashlight is taking a break.

Sometimes its just a bad idea to send out a beacon telling you are present.

jimboutilier · Nov 6, 2013

There is a school of thought that calls for a tactical light to have a momentary only on-max switch and some add a screw down tail that allows you to lock the momentary switch on for non tactical use (and this can still be done one handed).

That school says you only want very bright well controlled bursts of light only as you need them and only for as long as you need them. Such lights require active concentration to turn it on and keep it on. You stop concentrating, the light tends to go out, you move, the light tends to go out, you loose the light it tends to go out. Such switches have very low failure rates and seldom fail "on". You always know the light will come on to max as that is the only option. You don't have to worry about clicking the light on or switching modes by mistake because you've lost your fine muscle control or forgot a complex UI under stress. This kiss approach is hard to dispute. But other schools add other options for greater flexibility or utility and there is reasonable debate on the various trade offs.

While I've had considerable training in several schools of tactical light use, I'm not in a field that's particularly likely to require my tactical use of a light. I EDC a light along with many other items and I may never have to use any of them tactically. But I do choose items I could use tactically. On the other hand I often use these items for non tactical use. So I make some compromises to balance my predominant uses with my potential rare tactical use.

I choose lights with reasonable toughness and reliability. They need a minimum max brightness and intensity. They need a way to instantly come on on max brightness. In service of flexibility and utility they also need several brightness levels that can be easily switched through, along with a way to come on on low, and offer some blinky modes. And the UI needs to separate the utility features from the tactical ones.

For this reason I love the Foursevens PRO interface (shared with many EagleTac lights, and older Fenix lights). With head tight you are in tactical mode and the tail clicky will turn the light on or off with full presses and switch between max and strobe with half presses. It's imperfect but acceptable and flexible without being too complex. With head loose you are in utility mode and the tail clicky turns on to low with half presses cycling through brightness levels and eventually hidden blinky modes. I always pocket the light with head tight, although most of the time that means loosening the head before using it (better than grabbing it under stress and having it come on in sub lumen mode).

There are lots of other interfaces, some more tactical, others more utilitarian. Everyone has to decide on their likely uses and what compromises are best for them. For most of us there is no single right answer for what constitutes "tactical".

cland72 · Nov 7, 2013

It's a matter of personal preference, but I think the momentary only/twist on with only one output level is going to be more popular with law enforcement officers that specialize in high risk warrants and things of that nature. They don't want to chance accidentially clicking their light on, resulting in illuminating their position, or silouetting their teammates.

Now, for normal patrol duty, I could see a click tailcap being much more user friendly than a momentary only tailcap. Also for most civilian users (EDC) a momentary only single mode light would be kind of a pain to use, which is why we see clicky, multi-level lights.

Basically, if I was running around in the dark in a gunfight, I'd want a Surefire 6P with Z41. But, given that I've never been in that situation, my EDC is a multi-mode light (typically a 4Sevens or SF E1B) for convenience and versatility.

dss_777 · Nov 7, 2013

There's a very strong arguement made that a clicky switch is the ticket for lights used with a weapon, or that go on a weapon. While momentary on/off is clearly needed, a clicky can do that.

When things go loud, the light goes on and stays on. At that point, the light is irrelevant compared to all the shouting, rushing movements of large, sweaty mammals, and the loud explosions emanating from the end of the barrel. Engaging with force is not the time to be finger-fiddling with a twisty switch.

Otherwise, switchology is what you prefer and use effectively.

BillSWPA · Nov 7, 2013

jimboutilier said:
There is a school of thought that calls for a tactical light to have a momentary only on-max switch and some add a screw down tail that allows you to lock the momentary switch on for non tactical use (and this can still be done one handed).

That school says you only want very bright well controlled bursts of light only as you need them and only for as long as you need them. Such lights require active concentration to turn it on and keep it on. You stop concentrating, the light tends to go out, you move, the light tends to go out, you loose the light it tends to go out. Such switches have very low failure rates and seldom fail "on". You always know the light will come on to max as that is the only option. You don't have to worry about clicking the light on or switching modes by mistake because you've lost your fine muscle control or forgot a complex UI under stress. This kiss approach is hard to dispute. But other schools add other options for greater flexibility or utility and there is reasonable debate on the various trade offs.

While I've had considerable training in several schools of tactical light use, I'm not in a field that's particularly likely to require my tactical use of a light. I EDC a light along with many other items and I may never have to use any of them tactically. But I do choose items I could use tactically. On the other hand I often use these items for non tactical use. So I make some compromises to balance my predominant uses with my potential rare tactical use.

I choose lights with reasonable toughness and reliability. They need a minimum max brightness and intensity. They need a way to instantly come on on max brightness. In service of flexibility and utility they also need several brightness levels that can be easily switched through, along with a way to come on on low, and offer some blinky modes. And the UI needs to separate the utility features from the tactical ones.

For this reason I love the Foursevens PRO interface (shared with many EagleTac lights, and older Fenix lights). With head tight you are in tactical mode and the tail clicky will turn the light on or off with full presses and switch between max and strobe with half presses. It's imperfect but acceptable and flexible without being too complex. With head loose you are in utility mode and the tail clicky turns on to low with half presses cycling through brightness levels and eventually hidden blinky modes. I always pocket the light with head tight, although most of the time that means loosening the head before using it (better than grabbing it under stress and having it come on in sub lumen mode).

There are lots of other interfaces, some more tactical, others more utilitarian. Everyone has to decide on their likely uses and what compromises are best for them. For most of us there is no single right answer for what constitutes "tactical".

While everyone has made good points above, I think this post nails one of the issues many of us face in "tactical" light selection. We do not make our living as door kickers. In my case, I do so behind a desk. We have seriously considered the possibility of having to protect our families and made preparations accordingly. We probably wouldn't spend nearly as much $ on our tools if mundane tasks were our primary focus in their selection. However, we also recognize that much of the stuff we carry will serve mundane everyday functions far more often than defensive ones, and those considerations impact our equipment selection. We therefore end up with something that is not a pure "tactical" light, but instead something that serves both roles reasonably well.

The pro interface described above is interesting. I like the idea of having two modes available if those other modes can be avoided in "tactical" use. If I understand it correctly (please correct me if I do not), using the light in a momentary manner will result in switching between high and strobe with each partial press. While having more control over mode selection would be desirable, either mode would likely work reasonably well most of the time. So, finding oneself in high when one wanted strobe or in strobe when one wanted high might be more frustrating than handicapping.

TEEJ · Nov 7, 2013

Yeah, tacti-cool is probably the real selling point.

What works for a particular person in a particular situation will vary.

In a firefight at night, I want FLIR and NV, not a light....its just going to work better.

The only time a light works better is when the other parties are not shooting at you, as you can take out their night vision, and create opportunities to take control of a situation, etc...or, simply FIND people or evidence, etc.

If you are patrolling of course, walking around with something strapped to your face is awkward....and a light makes sense.

Sometimes the light can be used to essentially say "Gotcha!" so they know you see them...make them freeze, etc.

So, having a few lights, with varied UI for the situation, makes sense as far as lights go.

jimboutilier · Nov 7, 2013

BillSWPA said:
The pro interface described above is interesting. I like the idea of having two modes available if those other modes can be avoided in "tactical" use. If I understand it correctly (please correct me if I do not), using the light in a momentary manner will result in switching between high and strobe with each partial press. While having more control over mode selection would be desirable, either mode would likely work reasonably well most of the time. So, finding oneself in high when one wanted strobe or in strobe when one wanted high might be more frustrating than handicapping.

With the pro interface in head tight with light off a full press and release of the reverse clicky will always turn the light on to turbo brightness. Another full press and release will always turn the light off. If while the light is on you half press the reverse clicky it will toggle between full turbo and strobe with each half press. In head loose mode with the light off a full press and release will always turn the light on to min brightness. Another full press and release will always turn the light off. If while the light is on you half press the reverse clicky the light will switch to the next mode in the sequence of moonlight/low/med/high/moonlight/low/med/high/blinky modes. Eagletac and old Fenix lights are similar but don't have a moonlight mode. All these lights use a reverse clicky switch so there is no momentary. A full press release always turns on to the level the head selects, a press release while on always turns off. And a half press while on sequences through the levels available as selected by the head. Keep the head tight and you have a very simple tactical type light. Keep it loose and you have a nice EDC light.

BillSWPA · Nov 7, 2013

jimboutilier said:
With the pro interface in head tight with light off a full press and release of the reverse clicky will always turn the light on to turbo brightness. Another full press and release will always turn the light off. If while the light is on you half press the reverse clicky it will toggle between full turbo and strobe with each half press. In head loose mode with the light off a full press and release will always turn the light on to min brightness. Another full press and release will always turn the light off. If while the light is on you half press the reverse clicky the light will switch to the next mode in the sequence of moonlight/low/med/high/moonlight/low/med/high/blinky modes. Eagletac and old Fenix lights are similar but don't have a moonlight mode. All these lights use a reverse clicky switch so there is no momentary. A full press release always turns on to the level the head selects, a press release while on always turns off. And a half press while on sequences through the levels available as selected by the head. Keep the head tight and you have a very simple tactical type light. Keep it loose and you have a nice EDC light.

I did misunderstand. Thank you for the explanation. So, you do have good control over high v. strobe, but when you need momentary light, you are limited to clicking the light on and then quickly clicking it off again. A workable system, although with some added difficulty over a momentary only or forward clicky.

reppans · Nov 7, 2013

BillSWPA said:
When I am using a light for defensive purposes, the last thing I want is the light giving the bad guy more information than it gives me. That is the risk one runs when using a light in constant on mode, or possibly even unintentionally clicking it on. I want to quickly illuminate an area, deactivate the light quickly, and then move to the next area. Leaving the light on for more time only risks drawing fire. In an unusual circumstance where I need constant on, I can just press and hold the momentary switch. For this reason, I prefer a momentary tail switch that is twisted for constant on.

Please excuse my ignorance, as tactical flashlight use is new to me, but something has always puzzled me. It seem to me that the use of momentary maximum, from an off position, would be blinding to both parties, although obviously worse for the assailant at the wrong end of the bezel. In a classic example, if you were woken from sleep by a bump in the night, how would you investigate the disturbance with one of these momentary maximum lights without searing your own retinas just getting downstairs?

jimboutilier said:
... And the UI needs to separate the utility features from the tactical ones.

For this reason I love the Foursevens PRO interface (shared with many EagleTac lights, and older Fenix lights).

jimboutilier said:
...All these lights use a reverse clicky switch so there is no momentary.

This brings up one of my favorite "hidden" features of the Quark Pro's UI that I use regularly - it's a single-handed momentary maximum FROM any lower mode in use. If you back the bezel off a couple of millimeters from the tight bezel position, any sideways pressure to the head will momentarily activate maximum, and then return you to the previously used lower mode upon release. With an underhanded grip, you use your thumb to press the bezel, with an overhand grip, you keep your pinky underneath the bezel and squeeze (thumb still controlling the clicky, excl. 2AA tube).

I frequently use this momentary max "function" from lower modes for walking the dog off leash to quickly spot him at a distance, to signal approaching cars there are pedestrians ahead, to spot distant trail markers while hiking, etc, etc.

So in the bump in the night example above, with a weapon in one hand, I could navigate my home on moonlight, and if surprised by a burglar, I could momentarily flash maximum (closing my own eyes, assuming presence of mind) and then be immediately back on moonlight navigating towards my plan B. If that included hiding, I guess I could bury the bezel against my body, or simply click it off (but not ideal given reset time).

I suppose the obvious answer is that this method would prove to be unreliable in a high stress situation, but the alternative of blind yourself, and then stumbling around in the dark using the burnt-in image on your retinas, somehow seems equally unappealing to me.

Thoughts?

dc38 · Nov 7, 2013

What about hds lights?

regarding tactical forward vs forward clicky; a twist/push switch is more tactical. Tactical implies that tact and discretion is being exercised. This means that operatives may need to go in quietly, cause hell, and disappear quietly. With that mentality, think about the repercussions about having a clicky switch in conjunction with accidental activation. CLickies are rather loud and have many operating parts. If for some reason the contacts in the clicky suddenly fail to meet, you may very well have given away your position by clicking the switch with no result. A forward momentary provides the luxury of simple, SILENT mechanical operation. Even when it comes time to go loud, a simple twist attached on a long weapon will work. Sidearms allow your free hand to constantly hold the switch and release if necessary. In high stress situations, I challenge you to only momentary a clicky when targeted from multiple vantage points. You'll sure as hell want a forward momentary to go off after identifying and neutralizing individual threats with your team.

imo, a forward clicky is more tacticool than tactical, but it offers more practical operation for the general populace.

ico · Nov 8, 2013

I think you're right that the word "tactical" has always been just added as a cool-ness factor and even a price bump for most lights. What I understand though for the use of the momentary on and a twisty in a tactical light is that is for use by LO/military in such a way that when in use, the momentary cannot be clicked on for the off chance that you would only need a burst and anymore would only lead your location to the enemy. Some can say you can just modulate your click so it will not fully click on but in a life and death situation or any intense job, you wouldn't be able to do that now would you. So there goes the only momentary option. The twist for constant on is then made for the part where you would need the light to be on for your whole duration so you only need to twist it before the operation and it is already on from then on.

jimboutilier · Nov 8, 2013

BillSWPA said:
I did misunderstand. Thank you for the explanation. So, you do have good control over high v. strobe, but when you need momentary light, you are limited to clicking the light on and then quickly clicking it off again. A workable system, although with some added difficulty over a momentary only or forward clicky.

Exactly. Some prefer the forward clicky for this reason. But with the fine motor control you'll loose under stress you'll likely end up clicking the forward clicky on at some point anyway so to me a clicky is a clicky and only a pure momentary offers a real benefit in this area.

BillSWPA · Nov 8, 2013

reppans said:
Please excuse my ignorance, as tactical flashlight use is new to me, but something has always puzzled me. It seem to me that the use of momentary maximum, from an off position, would be blinding to both parties, although obviously worse for the assailant at the wrong end of the bezel. In a classic example, if you were woken from sleep by a bump in the night, how would you investigate the disturbance with one of these momentary maximum lights without searing your own retinas just getting downstairs?

There is a huge difference between being on the back end of the light and the front end. However, it is possible to have too bright a light. Sometimes 150+ lumen lights can become problematic if they are shined into a mirror or even a particularly reflective white wall. This is one reason why I tend to emphasize run time over output. However, the person looking at the front is always going to get the light much worse.

The light serves two purposes. One is identifying targets. You can do this with even a $5 keychain light. The other is providing a 1/2 second advantage while you are taking in what you see, making your decisions, and beginning to act. This is where a bright light, or better yet strobe, is advantageous.

Most of us can walk around our own homes without a light. I have nightlights in most rooms, so my house is never totally dark. I leave the light off when moving, and only turn it on for quick scans. Yes, the first activation will reduce night vision, but in both low light training and actual checking bumps in the night, I have not found it to be an issue.

You are not just looking for visual cues. Noise, a hot or cold draft (indicating an open window or door) etc. can all be clues indicating the location of a problem.

reppans said:
This brings up one of my favorite "hidden" features of the Quark Pro's UI that I use regularly - it's a single-handed momentary maximum FROM any lower mode in use. If you back the bezel off a couple of millimeters from the tight bezel position, any sideways pressure to the head will momentarily activate maximum, and then return you to the previously used lower mode upon release. With an underhanded grip, you use your thumb to press the bezel, with an overhand grip, you keep your pinky underneath the bezel and squeeze (thumb still controlling the clicky, excl. 2AA tube).

I frequently use this momentary max "function" from lower modes for walking the dog off leash to quickly spot him at a distance, to signal approaching cars there are pedestrians ahead, to spot distant trail markers while hiking, etc, etc.

So in the bump in the night example above, with a weapon in one hand, I could navigate my home on moonlight, and if surprised by a burglar, I could momentarily flash maximum (closing my own eyes, assuming presence of mind) and then be immediately back on moonlight navigating towards my plan B. If that included hiding, I guess I could bury the bezel against my body, or simply click it off (but not ideal given reset time).

I suppose the obvious answer is that this method would prove to be unreliable in a high stress situation, but the alternative of blind yourself, and then stumbling around in the dark using the burnt-in image on your retinas, somehow seems equally unappealing to me.

Thoughts?

Good plan when you have a utilitarian reason to have the light on anyway, but not for searching. I once showed a shooting instructor during a low light training session just how much light a Photon II (made in the early 2000's) on my keychain could put out. In an otherwise completely dark indoor shooting range, he was able to see the bullet holes in my target 15 feet away. if that moonlight mode is bright enough to help you, it is bright enough to give the bad guy more information than it is giving you. Try to get comfortable moving as much as possible without the light, and only using the light for quick scans, moving after each scan.

Keep in mind that if you really think someone has already entered your house (as opposed to trying to enter), don't go to them. Instead, pick a good spot where you can keep them away from your wife and kids, call the police or have your wife do so, and wait for them to come to you. This approach puts you in the most advantageous position possible if confrontation does occur.

BillSWPA · Nov 8, 2013

dc38 said:
What about hds lights?

regarding tactical forward vs forward clicky; a twist/push switch is more tactical. Tactical implies that tact and discretion is being exercised. This means that operatives may need to go in quietly, cause hell, and disappear quietly. With that mentality, think about the repercussions about having a clicky switch in conjunction with accidental activation. CLickies are rather loud and have many operating parts. If for some reason the contacts in the clicky suddenly fail to meet, you may very well have given away your position by clicking the switch with no result. A forward momentary provides the luxury of simple, SILENT mechanical operation. Even when it comes time to go loud, a simple twist attached on a long weapon will work. Sidearms allow your free hand to constantly hold the switch and release if necessary. In high stress situations, I challenge you to only momentary a clicky when targeted from multiple vantage points. You'll sure as hell want a forward momentary to go off after identifying and neutralizing individual threats with your team.

imo, a forward clicky is more tacticool than tactical, but it offers more practical operation for the general populace.

As my original post shows, I agree with you re: momentary is better than clickie. Please keep in mind, however:

1) Unless you train by walking on rice paper, you are making a lot more noise than the switch on your light.

2) If you are in a position to be targeted by multiple vantage points, you need to move through and out of that position ASAP. Staying there will cause a far bigger problem than whatever light will be chosen. I realize that the structure of most buildings makes complete avoidance of this problem impossible.

BillSWPA · Nov 8, 2013

jimboutilier said:
Exactly. Some prefer the forward clicky for this reason. But with the fine motor control you'll loose under stress you'll likely end up clicking the forward clicky on at some point anyway so to me a clicky is a clicky and only a pure momentary offers a real benefit in this area.

Yes. It happens to me even when I am searching with no real reason to believe I am likely to find anyone and therefore working under a very low stress level.

dss_777 · Nov 8, 2013

I think the most important question when using the light to search, is what do you do when if/when you find something?

"Tactical" = Find the threat. Identify the threat. Process the threat.

Yes?

There are some differences in use between weapon-mounted and hand-held lights, of course. But not many if the function is "tactical" (search, identify, and process threats).

As a civilian, I presume you don't want to find ANYTHING. If you find nothing, no big deal and it doesn't matter WHAT interface you have. But if you do find something, what role does the light play then? Do you really want to be sorting through the tactical interface two-step to find that seizure-inducing magic strobe or eye searing turbo mode? Wait! was that "two-clicks, one slow press, a hop-skip-and-jump, THEN turn around", or ...?

Do you want to tie up your free hand to twist that switch to constant on? You just might need it on to see where you are, where the other guy is, track yours/his movement, and avoid running into walls, furniture, or the hall closet next to the front door. And you might need that other hand to deal with what you find a lot more than you need it to twist that tail-cap.

What do the Marines say? No plan survives first contact. So my philosophy is, KISS - Click on, click off switch. Same interface for weapon lights as hand-helds. Two levels max, with a twisty head high-low switch (a la Malkoff). And, the more light the better. Save the ninja skills for sneaking up on the cat. No such thing as too much light in this context. No one will be blinded by any hand-held light, and neither will you. Night vision goes to poop with the least amount of light, yours and his. Might as well make it day-time in there.

This post is proof I have way too much time on my hands. I'm off to practice clearing my house. Or sneak up on the neighbor's cat.

dc38 · Nov 8, 2013

BillSWPA said:
As my original post shows, I agree with you re: momentary is better than clickie. Please keep in mind, however:

1) Unless you train by walking on rice paper, you are making a lot more noise than the switch on your light.

2) If you are in a position to be targeted by multiple vantage points, you need to move through and out of that position ASAP. Staying there will cause a far bigger problem than whatever light will be chosen. I realize that the structure of most buildings makes complete avoidance of this problem impossible.

that was implied as well, lol... Tactical lights need to come with a disclaimer.

*the purchase of this tactical light does not replace or supplement the operator with the necessary tactical skills or training.

Click/Twist - Click/Click...Let the debate begin

Newly Enlightened

Flashaholic

Enlightened

Flashaholic

Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Enlightened

Flashaholic

Enlightened

Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Similar threads