ARC flashlights for diving/snorkeling

Since the ARC lights are advertised as being waterproofed to 50 feet. Will it be safe to use during snorkeling/ diving as long as it doesn't go beyond the rated depth? I think I read somewhere that the AAA has even been tested to 300+ feet.

Bill

Hmm... it may be waterproof enough, but question is, would you risk the possibility of losing an Arc LS, as it'll sink right down to the bottom if you don't have a lanyard on it and it slips out of your grip, with it being so small and all? (shudders at the thought of it...)

While doing some chest deep "wading" through inshore tidal pools I carried an LSH-P (on a tether) as a backup to my 4C UK. For fun, I switched off the UK, and turned on the ARC. It was grossly underpowered as a DIVE light, but it provided enough illumination (again in chest deep water) to let me navigate the terrain and get myself out of the water. The light was not more than a foot or so underwater at any one time so I can't vouch for the depth rating.

Just my opinion, but If you are going to carry this as a back up on a night dive, I would suggest that it is the ultimate last backup. The backup to your backup. I would have a D cell UK as my primary, a C cell tucked in my wetsuit, and the ARC tethered and tucked away. While the ARC is an awesome package, I know that is not enough light in +20' of water. Just my $.02.

Aloha!

I'd cringe at carrying any electronic gadget into the saltwater protected by nothing more than one o-ring plus that kroll boot. I'd stick with a dive light that was really designed as one, that doesn't have any electronics (i.e. incandescent). That way if it floods, you can probably just wash it out with fresh water and put it back together without needing serious repairs.

if you do, make extra double sure the kroll is tightened down as far as it will go w/o breaking. my LS leaked, we're not sure from where. peter suspects it was the boot.

id second the recommendations, get a dive light. Princeton Tec makes several inexpensive but bright ones.

While the ARC lights are fairly waterproof, and my LSL-P with twisty has seen a fair amount of hot tub/swimming pool time with no ill effects, I'd be hesitant to take a clicky version into salt water - probably not fatal, even if it floods, but not good for a pricy light.

More importantly, the beam shapes of the LS are terrible underwater. Most dive lights have a very tight spot beam to project through water, and the semi-diffuse beams of the standard LS (Perhaps the Fraen optics give a better UW beam?), just diffuse into nothingness very quickly. Better than nothing, of course, but far from optimal.

Go buy a Pelican 2c or 4AA for $25 - it'll do a much better job underwater in every respect, though still dead minimal for diving. I carry a UKE 8C, Pelican Stealthlite 4AA, and usually a Cyalume light stick or two when diving in the dark, and I'm considered a minimalist. The serious folks all go HID. UKE Light Cannon, here I come!

Well said Deanster! The light absorbtion of water is pretty amazing and it's always surprising how a very bright light at the surface is not once you go below. You really need throw...

Is there a certain advantage for using either incandescent or led lights for diving or is throw more important?

it depends how close you want the shark to be to you b4 you actually know it's there.

The first color to be absorbed by water is red. Since LED's are very weak in the higher wave lengths, they can't compete with an incandescent or HID if full color rendition is desired. Tight and bright is more important underwater than it is topsides, in most conditions, IMHO. I agree with the recomendations to go with a "true" dive light. For a night dive, a LED light might provide ample illumination in clear water.

EDIT: at some depth, you will find that the pressure will activate the Kroll switch. I don't know if this will be above 50' or not. Since Peter has pressure tested the lights, he can no doubt answer this question. I found that the tail switch on a M3 with KL6 would activate at about 25'. I had to use the LOTC feature to turn the light off. BTW, this was a day dive in good vis and the KL6 was useless in terms of bringing light to bear.

Pelican has just introduced the first set of LED-based dive-capable lights (that I'm aware of, anyway). They're still too new for anyone to have any real experience with them. Throw and intensity are the watchwords for dive lights, which is why HID has become very popular very quickly.

If someone can come up with an LED beam pattern that can punch through more than a couple feet of water (may be impossible due to the wavelength problem McGizmo notes above), they'll be great for secondary lights. Lower power consumption, and no worries about losing a bulb while underwater would be great additions.

Many primary dive lights have a back-up bulb or filament built in, as losing your primary whilst exploring a cave or wreck (which should only be done by properly certified divers, btw), is a Bad Thing. Losing your secondary at the same time could be deadly.

It wouldn't surprise me to see the 'standard' become a HID primary and a 3- or 5-watt Luxeon Star-based secondary, if the beam issue can be addressed. In the meantime, Incan and/or HID are the only way to fly for even the most basic of UW uses.

Peter? Perhaps a new line of lights? I like the sound of 'DiveARC'

If the light wavelength is the problem, wouldn't a change in the led's color address this situation since leds can come in various colors? And can't a better reflector be made or designed for better throw.

Except for these two issues, I can't see where else a led could be bested by an incandescent light. Please correct me if I'm wrong coz I'm a newbie when it comes to flashlight technology.

I've never gone scuba diving but I do like snorkeling a lot. I was just thinking I could use the ARC for this without having to buy another light just for this purpose. I like the fact that the ARC is regulated, puts out white light, and most of all it's very compact.

For snorkeling, as long as you use a lanyard, the Arc will probably be excellent. It really meets your needs, and you're not going to be diving to several hundred feet, anyway. I know that mine hasn't had a problem at 75 feet, and I've had it all the way apart a couple of times for mods...

-Paul