Order Fenix LD41 520 lumens, got newer 680 lumens instead YMMV

Order the Fenix LD41 520 lumens a few days ago on Amazon for $55, figure I would save myself a bit of money going with the older model. Just got my package from Amazon today and to my surprise, they gave my the newer 680 lumens instead.

I'm thinking they ran out of stock of the older version and send me the newer one or maybe a worker made a mistake since they are both LD41 or the UPC code are the same. Whatever the reason was, I got upgraded to the newer version, so I'm happy.:twothumbs

sorry to burst your bubble / being an *** but 4xAA lights these days are 980 lumens. sunwayman d40a around $55

even the "old" nitecore ea4 is 860 lumens, or 950 in XML2 flavor

A lot of people are well aware of this. There is a thing called "run-time" over max lumen output

Also those super high modes are incredibly inflated as virtually no 4aa light runs them for more than a few minutes. When the New Fenix LD41 came out we were commenting that even the original LD41 might be a better choice as it doesn't step down from the 500+ lumens it outputs.

Again, I'd personally much rather have a light running longer and cooler than having a crazy burst mode that isn't really necessary. If I want much more output I go with a format (18650s) that can accommodate it better. Also take into consideration the actual design and ergonomics of a light.

oh theres that thing called the Mode button



believe it or not you could actually run the D40A at lower levels! and run MAX for 3minutes if needed

I'm glad you got the light you want with some extras. I usually pick a light for features besides lumen count. I am always surprised at people who think the sum of a light is its runtime and initial output. Have fun with it!

martinaee said:

Again, I'd personally much rather have a light running longer and cooler than having a crazy burst mode that isn't really necessary. If I want much more output I go with a format (18650s) that can accommodate it better. Also take into consideration the actual design and ergonomics of a light.

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+1000

joker3388 said:

Order the Fenix LD41 520 lumens a few days ago on Amazon for $55, figure I would save myself a bit of money going with the older model. Just got my package from Amazon today and to my surprise, they gave my the newer 680 lumens instead.

I'm thinking they ran out of stock of the older version and send me the newer one or maybe a worker made a mistake since they are both LD41 or the UPC code are the same. Whatever the reason was, I got upgraded to the newer version, so I'm happy.:twothumbs

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Cool - I assume you get it direct from Amazon ("Ships from and sold by Amazon.com") rather than from some other Amazon seller?

Given the way that the human eye perceives brightness levels, a few hundred more lumens provide diminishing returns. I'll take run time, tint and beam quality. . .

Yeah. I've said that before especially after 300 lumens or so. I'd say the lumen levels where there actually is a huge difference for me would be:

3, 20, 100, 250-300, 600, 1000k and up. There just isn't THAT big of a difference perceptibly between say 600 and 900. I even got to handle a TK75 at BrightGuy a while back and used it in a dark room, I probably shouldn't have said this out loud, but I exclaimed "oh, it's not as bright as I thought it would be."

The human eye is kind of like a modern DSLR in some ways --- or the sensor at least. You need a threshold to get a good image (what you see with your eye), but beyond that reducing the iso, or in the case of led lights... boosting the lumen levels, only improves what you see marginally. It also depends on your base darkness. A 200 lumen light in the woods will seem WAY brighter than a 2k lumen light in an urban environment with streetlight glaring in your face.

zombywoof said:

Cool - I assume you get it direct from Amazon ("Ships from and sold by Amazon.com") rather than from some other Amazon seller?

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Yeah, I got it directly from Amazon. I'm wary of buying from third party seller on Amazon, even if it's being fulfilled by Amazon. A lot of the time you get counterfeit products or refurbished items being pawned off as new.

wjv said:

Given the way that the human eye perceives brightness levels, a few hundred more lumens provide diminishing returns. I'll tale run time, tint and beam quality. . .

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One of the reasons I chose the 520 LD41 was a 30mins run time on turbo as oppose to 3mins with other lights before stepping down.

So.....does anyone know how long a 680 LD41 will run for on turbo before the step down?

joker3388 said:

One of the reasons I chose the 520 LD41 was a 30mins run time on turbo as oppose to 3mins with other lights before stepping down.

So.....does anyone know how long a 680 LD41 will run for on turbo before the step down?

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The 680 LD41 will step down after 25 minutes of run time.

My question...The literature says that the flashlight will memorize the brightness level you are using. Then when you turn it on next time, it will go to that level without cycling through. It seems when I turn my light on, it always goes to the lowest level and you have to cycle to the higher level. Does the light have to be on for a certain period of time for it to memorize the level you were in...or what? What am I doing wrong?

davesc said:

The 680 LD41 will step down after 25 minutes of run time.

My question...The literature says that the flashlight will memorize the brightness level you are using. Then when you turn it on next time, it will go to that level without cycling through. It seems when I turn my light on, it always goes to the lowest level and you have to cycle to the higher level. Does the light have to be on for a certain period of time for it to memorize the level you were in...or what? What am I doing wrong?

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My light always memorize that setting I last used. Maybe you have a faulty unit?

joker3388 said:

I'm wary of buying from third party seller on Amazon, even if it's being fulfilled by Amazon.

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I prefer dealing with Amazon directly too - I've also found their returns policy and process to be very painless over the years.

joker3388 said:

My light always memorize that setting I last used. Maybe you have a faulty unit?

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Thanks, I will mess around with it a little more. I may playing around too much and clicking the light levels too many times.


Edit to add...I was wrong...It does have a memory. It's my memory that's shot....

Got mine via special channels for around $63. Newer XML2 (U2) version.

Decent light and output, but average surface treatment (HA3 that does not feel very HA3).
Ergonomics are OK but not stellar, mainly due to awkward switch operation.
Inability to tail stand is another demerit.

Max level only good for open outdoors. For indoor use, High or even Med modes will suffice.
Torx T-6 driver required for switch disassembly and maintenance.

BTW has anyone suffered from a rusted switch plate? Heard somewhere about this and that's not good...
For my unit I dissemble the switch assy and clean/wipe the plate(s) with Teflon lube and silicone grease for added protection. Hope that will help against rusting.

davesc said:

.I was wrong...It does have a memory. It's my memory that's shot....

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Latched memory on standard Low/Med/High/Max mode only. No memory on Strobe/SOS mode and will revert to previous brightness level upon restart.

In december I ordered two LD41 520 lumen, but I also recieved the newer 680 version. I'll try to change it with older version if the dealer will have them.

yazkaz said:

Got mine via special channels for around $63. Newer XML2 (U2) version.

Decent light and output, but average surface treatment (HA3 that does not feel very HA3).
Ergonomics are OK but not stellar, mainly due to awkward switch operation.
Inability to tail stand is another demerit.

Max level only good for open outdoors. For indoor use, High or even Med modes will suffice.
Torx T-6 driver required for switch disassembly and maintenance.

BTW has anyone suffered from a rusted switch plate? Heard somewhere about this and that's not good...
For my unit I dissemble the switch assy and clean/wipe the plate(s) with Teflon lube and silicone grease for added protection. Hope that will help against rusting.

Latched memory on standard Low/Med/High/Max mode only. No memory on Strobe/SOS mode and will revert to previous brightness level upon restart.

Click to expand...

Guys, the torch will tailstand, even if the rectangular base doesn't make it massively stable due to it being a tall, top-heavy torch. If you have the lanyard attached simply loosen the knot right off and feed under the adjacent long end arch of the base and you will eliminate wobble (with the light turned on).

I'm a bit surprised about the rusting bases. These are presumably steel then?

I agree that the anodising could be a little better (a few minor swirl marks on mine, but it has also picked up some small chips to the base and the crenulated head in only a few hours use). I also agree that medium mode is more than enough for house use, in fact the low 10 lumen setting would be more than enough for most uses and lasts a very impressive 150 hours, which is one of the biggest pluses with this light imo. I would, nevertheless, have liked both moon and beacon modes, and for these reasons would have been very tempted by the Sunwayman D40a if i'd seen it first.

I have the Original LD41 and I'm thinking of getting the LD41 Upgrade (680)

I'm aware that I probably won't "notice" an extra 160 Lumens. What I am interested in is the fact the specs say the range is now 270m instead of just 200m.

Has anyone compared the two directly? Am I going to notice the difference in distance/throw with the newer model, or should I just keep my old one?

Thanks!

If it is your favorite light ever, sure why not. If you want to get the XM-L2 model just for the extra brightness and the extra throw, personally I wouldn't: difference in brightness won't be that big, difference in throw will be better but not sure is going to make that much of a difference in actual use. If you want a real upgrade, get the TK41 XM-L2 U2: you'll notice the difference! : )