Surefire A2 Franken Aviator Build

m4a1usr

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After having success with modifying several of my Surefires to my tastes I couldn't resist wanting to go another direction. Earlier this year I purchased a "broken" A2 body which had a bad voltage divider section . I knew it still had potential. So I punched out that section. I have several A2's. All Incan's. My plan was a longer body build, maybe using lith-ions. For now the light works great with CR123's and a custom built spacer. I don't want secondary LED's.
Using a TNC E2C adapter with matching color I re-threaded the E threads to 7/8-20. That allowed it to mate to the A2 body. Now I can use any P60 drop in. My Malkoff M61 and EDC+ triple both work great inside the adapter! Not that I had any doubt. The current Z62 tailcap still has the resistor board, which I need to take out but would like to hear from someone who may have already taken one apart before I do something maybe I shouldn't? A McClicky will go in one day.
The light and adapter were nicked and worn from use and I got all the components cheap. Hope my build doesn't offend the SF gawd . I love all of my older original condition SF lights but this just seemed to cry out for attention. Thanks for taking the time to read fellow Flashaholic's!

 
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Illum

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The A2 tailcap cannot be taken apart without demolishing it, at least not an any way I know. Inside it is a 10 ohm 1/8W resistor, meaning if you draw more than 100mA across it for any amount of time it will overheat and burn open. It was originally used to provide a logic input to the A2 circuit and was never intended to carry a significant amount of current

The SF gawd you speak of is no longer at SF:eek::eek:oo:
 

m4a1usr

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Looks great ... very cool build ! :cool:

Does the Malkoff have 2 levels now, with the resistored tailcap ?
Both the Malkoff and the EDC+ did not like the first press on the tailcap. The Malkoff blinked and shut off and the EDC+ never even tried to start. However both worked just fine using a shorting wire. The darn resistor didn't agree with either.
 

m4a1usr

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The A2 tailcap cannot be taken apart without demolishing it, at least not an any way I know. Inside it is a 10 ohm 1/8W resistor, meaning if you draw more than 100mA across it for any amount of time it will overheat and burn open. It was originally used to provide a logic input to the A2 circuit and was never intended to carry a significant amount of current

The SF gawd you speak of is no longer at SF:eek::eek:oo:
Today I figured out how to take the TC apart. It needs to be heated to soften the SF black retaining gunk and than using a pair of needle nose pliers I took off the boot retainer and out popped the switch assy. Havent decided to short out the resistor board or make a McClicky retainer. Probably do the latter since I purchased a tap and die in the right thread a month ago.
 

Illum

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Today I figured out how to take the TC apart. It needs to be heated to soften the SF black retaining gunk and than using a pair of needle nose pliers I took off the boot retainer and out popped the switch assy. Havent decided to short out the resistor board or make a McClicky retainer. Probably do the latter since I purchased a tap and die in the right thread a month ago.

Nice! so the push button under the boot actually does come apart then. can you link up a picture of it? I thought everything crimps in from the spring end so I must've gotten off the wrong side to begin with :ohgeez:
 

m4a1usr

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Great :thumbsup: I´m glad you could identify the A2 body´s problem and that it is still of use!

Eric

Hey Eric! Yep. Its the body I got from you. Turns out that body had many options available. Surefire offered to repair it. I wanted something different.
 

skyfire

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Nice! so the push button under the boot actually does come apart then. can you link up a picture of it? I thought everything crimps in from the spring end so I must've gotten off the wrong side to begin with :ohgeez:

i took the boot off a couple of my Z62 and thats the impression i got. i couldnt figure out how to take it apart without breaking something.
maybe theres more than 1 version of those switches?
 

Illum

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i took the boot off a couple of my Z62 and thats the impression i got. i couldnt figure out how to take it apart without breaking something.
maybe theres more than 1 version of those switches?

There has been at least three versions of the Z57 and at least two versions of the Z58 so I say its not altogether impossible.
 
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