The right way to drop in a "Drop in"

BadgerBrigade

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Nov 15, 2013
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I am getting A CNC flashlight host from an online store and a drop in from Vihn, a forum member. When I ask flashlight guys "how" I am told to use Aluminum Foil between the drop in and the flashlight body but I wonder what is the best way?
Any youtube videos on this?
Do I wrap the whole drop in? Do I fold a 1/2 inch X 1 inch strip and just wrap the reflector?
Do I wrap the whole drop in but leave the bottom uncovered because I don't want the battery against the foil??
See where I'm going with this guys,..... So many ways but all I've heard so far is "wrap the Drop In and drop it in"....

Any by help would be truly appreciated
I want to give them as holiday gifts so I want to do this nicely :)
 
Last edited:

TEEJ

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I am getting A CNC flashlight host from an online store and a drop in from Vihn, a forum member. When I ask flashlight guys "how" I am told to use Aluminum Foil between the drop in and the flashlight body but I wonder what is the best way?
Any youtube videos on this?
Do I wrap the whole drop in? Do I fold a 1/2 inch X 1 inch strip and just wrap the reflector?
Do I wrap the whole drop in but leave the bottom uncovered because I don't want the battery against the foil??
See where I'm going with this guys,..... So many ways but all I've heard so far is "wrap the Drop In and drop it in"....

Any by help would be truly appreciated
I want to give them as holiday gifts so I want to do this nicely :)

You are just wrapping where the conductivity between the two parts are (The threads)...and where the drop in seats into the host. Its similar to using pipe thread tape, etc.

Vinh did a video of it...and, as its his drop in, that should be your best youtube option.

:D
 

AnAppleSnail

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You want to make a snug sleeve around the "soup can label" side of the roughly-cylindrical dropin. Your goal is to ensure GREAT thermal conductivity without mucking up the electrical contacts on the bottom (Non-LED) flat side of the dropin. This snug sleeve should make a smooth, rattle-free join between the dropin and the host. The "perfect" drop-in would have to be pushed out of its press-fit with a wood dowel through the battery compartment.
 

DrafterDan

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I found some adhesive-back copper tape on ebay, but it is available at several places. Just wrap the dropin so that it is a snug fit in the flashlight body. The idea is firm contact so the heat from the dropin is easily transferred to the body. Look at the LED module I worked up just recently.

 

Hondo

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Last edited:

Hondo

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Hey Norm, great minds think alike. Check my second link, after Vihn's video, I hooked him up with your how-to on the beverage can method. It is more work for me as I still don't have a low effort method for stripping the coatings, but worth it because it is so much cleaner without all of the layers of foil.
 

Norm

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I still don't have a low effort method for stripping the coatings, but worth it because it is so much cleaner without all of the layers of foil.
I must try acetone (nail polish remover) that might remove the coating.

Norm
 

Hondo

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Ooh, good idea, but I just tried acetone and it barely takes some color off the outside of my Lite beer can, faster to steel wool it. I always thought nail polish remover was laquer thinner, which is all I had last time I did this, and that did not work either. I would love a chemical attack for this stuff. I don't know if I am willing to try drain cleaner (lye), it removes anodizing. But on an area this large, you would need a lot of ventilation and protection from spatter, easier to just steel wool it.
 
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