A little confused

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imgadgetman

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I have a LSHF and a LSL second. I was playing with the 1aa adapter and decided to put it on my new LSHF even though I believe I read that it doesn't work. To my surprise, out came a beautiful wall of light. I like it but will have to test runtime before I think of switching.
Any ideas?
imgadgetman
 

Sigman

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Yep, check that runtime out...I'm not sure if there is one already in the Reviews Forum or not? I think the voltage cutoff on the newer ARC LSs is higher than the first ones introduced by Peter. (Those have a flat gold positive battery contact vs. the raised "button" contact on today's versions.)

I may be wrong, and am certainly open to corrections and further details (like what are the exact numbers for voltage cutoff and runtimes? You know, that I know, that I've read the answer here "somewhere" in this deep pile of facts that we call the Candle Power Forums...but I forget! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif).
 

nekomane

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I've read that the cutoff voltage for newer models (any model after the 'First Runs' including Hybrids) are something like 1.4V. They will work with a fresh AA battery for only a limited time.
Some suggest using lithiums, but they are expensive. Don't know if your supposed to use 1.5v or 3v lithiums either. Anyone /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

imgadgetman

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I think I will get out my voltmeter and see what happens. I am also thinking of buying the 6 volt lithium battery that can be split into 2 3volt aa size batteries.
imgadgetman
 

nekomane

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So thats where you find 3V AAs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

imgadgetman

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I just tried a 1.37 volt alkaline AA, and it wouldn't light.
I am currently doing a run test on my LSHF-P with a brand new Kirkland alkaline AA. Initially it was slightly less dim than my First Run SLS. After 20 minutes it flickered but still was going bright. It has now been 30 minutes and it is slowly dimming. I will update later. Edit: "I gave up at 40 minutes when it was about twice as bright as my AAA-LE. The battery measured at 1.44 volts. I put in a lithium 1.5 v AA and it was brighter than the alkaline, but nothing to get too excited about. So back to the 123 and the 2AA adapter until I can try the 3 volt Lithium AA."
I was just at cheapbatteries.com and noticed they sell a 3volt AA battery for about $4 each. edit "they are varta brand."
 

CNC Dan

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[ QUOTE ]
imgadgetman said:

I was just at cheapbatteries.com and noticed they sell a 3volt AA battery for about $4 each. edit "they are varta brand."

[/ QUOTE ]

Those may be the low output type. No good for more than 20mA or so.

Get some CR-V3 batteries. Not energizer brand!(they have two 1.7v in series)

The other brands have two 3v in parelel. Cut the tabs that connect the cells together and roll them to make a button on the + end of the cells.
 

imgadgetman

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A 2 pack of the Duracell CRV3 cost me $16 at riteaid. I split one apart and it gave beautiful light. I don't see any advantage over the lithium 123's but it is a neat novelty. Now if I had a miniminimag(the 1AA), I would through in one of Wayne's sammich and surprise some people.

Oh well, it was fun to play with it.

BTW, I removed all of the plastic wrap from one and it ended up shorting and getting hot quickly. I stuck the plastic wrap over the + end and no more problems.

Bottom line, I think the 123 is the best option for size and lithiums, the 2aa for rechargeables, the 1aa if you only have 1aa and don't feel like raiding the remote control.
Imgadgetman
 
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