Looking for Cheap Clicky switches

SunYeti

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Dec 18, 2013
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So over the summer, I ran a flashlights workshop at a summer camp. The campers built their own flashlights, mostly from scratch. We made the bodies out of copper pipe. I used a cutting machine to make lenses and diffusers (I didn't want the kids shining naked dies in each other's eyes). The reflectors, LEDs on stars, and switches were from dealextreme.

The workshop was pretty challenging to run, because a lot of the kids had never soldered before. And, some parts of the assembly were kind of fidgety. But on the other hand, we were able to build very nice, very bright flashlights for less than $10 in materials each, including batteries and everything. So great! One problem though; the switches kept dying. I think this was more disappointing to me than the kids, because I had a lot invested in the idea; mostly they thought it was a cool experience anyway. However, if I ever run this workshop again (and I might), I would really like to use some more reliable parts. Anyone know where I could get similar switches to this: http://dx.com/p/clicky-switch-for-flashlights-16mm-5-pack-5632 that would hold up better?

While we're at it, here are some pics of the flashlights they made.

2013-06-28_16.45.54.jpg


2013-06-27_18.18.49.jpg


2013-06-27_18.33.00.jpg
 
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This is an admirable project you have going on. I work with scouts and like to do similar things, though we have not yet done flashlights! I am working with my 3 own boys to make their own lights this christmas though. I suggest you go here:

www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com

and search for

Solarforce Forward Clicky Inner switch set

These are super robust and reliable. Also, you might want to check this thread out for ideas: :)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Copperhead-interest-description-sales-thread
 

SunYeti

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Thanks schizeckinosy!

Solarforce seems to be having site issues; I can barely get any of their pages to load...
What we were doing is much less sophisticated that that other thread; no driver, lower powered LEDs, not waterproof... but also much cheaper, which made it doable as a summer camp project. I think copper piping is generally a great concept for flashlights, as it is not too expensive, it makes a great heatsink, it can make part of the circuit, and it comes in a wide variety of diameters to fit your batteries.
 

SunYeti

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If you can't see that solarforce part, it is basically the guts from a solarforce switch for $2. You could solder it into the cap pretty easy I would think.

Cheers, Dan

Thanks Dan. I tried the site on two different computers on two different days, no dice. $2 each would make the switch the most expensive component of the flashlight, by a fair margin. It might be doable, but really not an ideal solution. I realize it's tough to find something that's reliable and also cheap, but any other ideas?

Thanks
 
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Let me sleep on it but I'm thinking of some kind of contactor using foam rubber as a spring/insulator and that copper cap. There are a couple of ways that you could move the cap in/out that makes the negative wire touch the back of the battery. Maybe a "J" channel and a screw to hold it. Hmmm....

Also, it looks like the domain that I sent is no good by itself. You have to use this:
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product.php
 

kosPap

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similar switches can be found from many chinese sites including fasttech (they are in the electronic components category)

DX has also switches mounted on PCB boards but they run a bit expensive. Manafont has soem good ones in good price but I think they are innactive ATM....
 

rje58

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I got a half dozen or more generic tailcap switches that I will send you for free if you PM your mailing address - unless you're in a far flung outpost somewhere that the mailing cost would be prohibitive. It's great stuff you are doing with those kids!
 

SunYeti

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Let me sleep on it but I'm thinking of some kind of contactor using foam rubber as a spring/insulator and that copper cap. There are a couple of ways that you could move the cap in/out that makes the negative wire touch the back of the battery. Maybe a "J" channel and a screw to hold it. Hmmm....

Also, it looks like the domain that I sent is no good by itself. You have to use this:
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product.php

Yes, the 'switch' on the mini-maglite is basically just a tiny metal tab. In conjunction with the spring at the back of the light and the screw threads of the case, it makes a simple, elegant way to turn the light on and off. I would like to do something similar; in addition to being cheap, it would be a cool way to show the kids that a switch is really nothing more than two bits of metal that contact or don't. Problem is, being made of copper pipe and fittings, my lights have no threads (there are threaded fittings available, but they would increase complexity, weight, and price a fair amount). Maybe there is some way to rotate the tail cap (which is a copper end-cap) so that it contacts the - end of the batteries or doesn't depending on how it is rotated? Tricky to do while retaining a spring in the housing somewhere, which is key to keeping the batteries in contact. I think there is potential in something like a "J" channel, or a pin or something in the tail cap.
 

SunYeti

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similar switches can be found from many chinese sites including fasttech (they are in the electronic components category)

DX has also switches mounted on PCB boards but they run a bit expensive. Manafont has soem good ones in good price but I think they are innactive ATM....

Thanks! These: (http://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10001865/1275100-clicky-switch-for-led-flashlights) look like the would be exact, 1:1 drop-in replacements. Of course, they might have exactly the same problems. Worth looking in to though.
 

kosPap

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I think so...

is there a chance the the long spring shorted the switch (touching the copper body)and killing it?

Good work with the workshop... I will be really interested in reading a writeup
 

SunYeti

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I think so...

is there a chance the the long spring shorted the switch (touching the copper body)and killing it?

Good work with the workshop... I will be really interested in reading a writeup

Well, if the spring touched the copper body that just completed the circuit, causing the light to come on. Not a big deal; when that happened I just told them to shorten the spring slightly.

I've written for Make magazine; if I ever get all the bugs out of this project, I will do a write-up there or as an Instructible (and drop a link).
 
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