Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
Kind of depressing and boring for the past two-three days so wanted to make something different and do other stuff and leave Surefire e-series modding alone for few days... so except for updating my movie collection and re-building my Drobo system I decided to make two P60 pills... but to be as clean as they can...
This is not going to be step by step process but rather few words and few pics to show how I fixed the main issue with these cheap P60 pills everybody use... had some copper PCBs I bought long time ago but upon examination realized they are not direct-to-copper LED bond but still have layer of non-metal under the pad... so sanded it down all the way to copper... then soldered it from inside of the pill... that makes more than 2.5mm of heatsink alone - much better as before... then did the same to aluminum PCB and then used premium silver epoxy to attach it from the front (but it's basically bare metal-to-metal contact)... that adds some 0.8mm extra heatsink... reason for making it higher is to make completed P60 withing height where it would fit Surefire hosts perfectly - with max of maybe 0.5mm gap between body/bezel... final module will be wrapped in heavy duty aluminum foil in such a matter (and epoxy glued) so final module would look like a "cheap Malkoff M61" clone... simple plug and play...
Part of the pill that accommodates driver is machined little deeper so driver can sit 1.4mm deeper so once inside and soldered in place should look very clean... single layer driver completely clean but two sided driver will be fine as well as I plan to cover electronics with arctic alumina epoxy (white) to protect it...
Too long again with words... sorry... anyway... here are pics of pills, PCBs, dedomed and sealed LED, drivers and lucky hosts for both modules...
XML2 dedomed 3 Amps, 2-mode High/Low (100%/5%) No Memory
Nichia 219 1.4 Amps, 2-mode Low/High (5%/100%) No Memory
This is not going to be step by step process but rather few words and few pics to show how I fixed the main issue with these cheap P60 pills everybody use... had some copper PCBs I bought long time ago but upon examination realized they are not direct-to-copper LED bond but still have layer of non-metal under the pad... so sanded it down all the way to copper... then soldered it from inside of the pill... that makes more than 2.5mm of heatsink alone - much better as before... then did the same to aluminum PCB and then used premium silver epoxy to attach it from the front (but it's basically bare metal-to-metal contact)... that adds some 0.8mm extra heatsink... reason for making it higher is to make completed P60 withing height where it would fit Surefire hosts perfectly - with max of maybe 0.5mm gap between body/bezel... final module will be wrapped in heavy duty aluminum foil in such a matter (and epoxy glued) so final module would look like a "cheap Malkoff M61" clone... simple plug and play...
Part of the pill that accommodates driver is machined little deeper so driver can sit 1.4mm deeper so once inside and soldered in place should look very clean... single layer driver completely clean but two sided driver will be fine as well as I plan to cover electronics with arctic alumina epoxy (white) to protect it...
Too long again with words... sorry... anyway... here are pics of pills, PCBs, dedomed and sealed LED, drivers and lucky hosts for both modules...
XML2 dedomed 3 Amps, 2-mode High/Low (100%/5%) No Memory
Nichia 219 1.4 Amps, 2-mode Low/High (5%/100%) No Memory
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