Jetbeam RRT-01 Control Ring Question

revilo951

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 24, 2014
Messages
165
Hello All,

I have a question about the Jetbeam RRT-01 - the magnetic control ring seems to have a stiffness about it when it is pressing towards the front of the light (which is what my hand makes the ring do when I use it) - feels like it might be rubbing on an o-ring? when you pull the ring towards the back of the light, it rotates very smoothly and easily.

Anyone else with this experince? Its an incredible light, otherwise, I am very impressed.
 

noboneshotdog

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
1,354
It does have an "indent" to keep it from coming on in your pocket at both the beginning and another at the end. I do feel that as a whole the ring has very little resistance and can easily come on in your pocket if it is not locked out by twisting apart the 2 halves of the body. Over all, it is a VERY nice little light though. It takes IMR 18350's as well for a little more run time too which is nice. So, if its just the "indent" than that's normal.
 

Fireclaw18

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,408
As noboneshotdog mentioned it has an indent on one side of the ring.

However, there is no o-ring touching any part of the ring.
 

gunga

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
8,080
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
There is a spring loaded ball bearing pressing against the ring. This falls into a divet, hence the "indent" at the off position.
 

Fireclaw18

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Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,408
If you want to reduce or change the friction on the ring you can try the following:

1. Unscrew and remove the battery tube.
2. Unscrew and remove the bezel, lens, reflector and plastic isolator. When unscrewing the bezel grip the bezel and the part of the light directly below the bezel. Those are the parts that need to turn in opposite directions. Do not grip below the control ring or you may break the driver wires and destroy the driver if the wrong part turns!
3. Using a soldering iron, desolder the driver wires from the star with the LED on it. To help protect the LED you may also want to remove the star.
4. On the back of the head, use a very small screwdriver to unscrew the driver retainer screw. Then lift out and completely remove the driver.
5. using two strap wrenches or rubber jawed pliers, Firmly grip the top of the head above the ring, and the part of the head immediately below the ring, then turn and unscrew them from eachother. I didn't have either so ended up using two regular pliers insulated with gaffers tape and rubber bands. It worked, but slipped and caused some damage to the anodizing so I don't recommend that. However, you can make rubber jawed pliers with some rubber indoor stairway grip tape applied to the jaws of regular pliers. The threads are sealed with threadlocker so it will take considerable force to unscrew.
6. Lift out the ring: Take note of the tiny spring and ball-bearing so they don't get lost. If you remove them make sure to reinsert them before reassembling.
7. With the ring removed, you can now add more lubricant to the inside and sides of the ring or clean off and remove the old lubricant. When I did this with my light, I squirted in some teflon lubricant on top of the existing lubricant. This got rid of the metal grinding feel of the stock lubricant and made for much smoother and quieter operation.
8. After relubricating, reinstall the ring and reassemble the two halves of the head. Before reinstalling the electronics, test the ring to verify that it's new tension is satisfactory.

Notes:
1. Same procedure above also works for the Niteye EYE10 and Jetbeam TCR01. If you don't like the extra detentes on the Niteye I suspect you could probably clean out the detentes on the side of the ring-slot and fill some of them in with epoxy.
2. Always remove the driver before unscrewing the ring on these lights. If you try to remove the ring first you'll torque off the driver wires. The driver is a double-decker PCB with the driver wires soldered in the middle... this makes it almost impossible to replace the driver wires if you damage them so take care.
 
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revilo951

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Jan 24, 2014
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165
I am aware of the detents - I like them. :p

If anyone else has an RRT-01, can they comment if the control ring feels the same when slight rearward pressure is applied, and when slight forward pressure is applied?

When I apply slight forward pressure (which happens naturally when I use it, due to the length of the torch), it feels like it is rubbing on a dry o-ring. Slight rearward pressure feels very smooth and slick.

Does anyone think that a little silicone grease will do any good?

If I feel brave enough, I might try some of the more advanced suggestions - thanks a lot for your help, everyone! :thumbsup:
 
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revilo951

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Joined
Jan 24, 2014
Messages
165
It takes IMR 18350's as well for a little more run time too which is nice.

A little extra runtime would not go astray:sold:. Which cells do you recommend (I am in Australia, so buying locally would be a prefered option)? And will protected cells fit?

Thanks,
Revilo951
 
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revilo951

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 24, 2014
Messages
165
Just to let everyone know, the dealer replaced the light for me under warranty - all good now! Excellent service from liteshop.com.au - couldn't fault his customer service!

Does anyone know where I can get an Niteye Eye15 body tube only? I would like to be able to use an 18650 in this light (and if I get it modded by vinh, I will NEED it :duh2:)

Thanks again everyone!
 
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