*new* Sunwayman F10R and F20C - white/red/blue led
- Thread starter kj2
- Start date
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I noticed that none of the modes included a white light constant on....hopefully that was an oversight when typing out the descriptions!
edit: OK i checked the links at it was an oversight. whew!
edit: OK i checked the links at it was an oversight. whew!
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BigBluefish
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 1,461
Interesting.
But, as the does SRT7 et cet., it misses the mark. . .
Or, it hits the mark, and just don't have a clue what that mark actually is.
Erm...to use red or blue, you loosen the head, and it automatically comes on in white-red-blue STROBE?!?! - "for your convenience"????
Ok, Sunwayman, listen-up: What you (OK, what "I") want is something comparable to the old SureFire A2.
1. Ditch the blue LED and put in a yellow-green LED. Better yet, put in a pair of red and a pair of yellow green. The YGs should be putting out I'd guess about 1/3 the output of the red LED, given the same drive current, which is good, as 15 lumens is pretty bright when it's pitch black out.
2. Ditch the colored light strobe feature. Seriously, what good is this???? Leave a white locator strobe or SOS if you must, but hide it away. It's useful in the rare instance when it's useful, but I don't want to be wading through it, or trying to avoid it in the UI that I'll be using 99% of the time.
3. Use a neutral-or warm-white, high(er) CRI XM-L2, rather than cool or neutral white. 200 lumens of a decent tint with tolerable color rendering beats 300 lumens of some weird, other-worldly "cool" white.
Now THAT would be a light I'd take into the woods.
But, as the does SRT7 et cet., it misses the mark. . .
Or, it hits the mark, and just don't have a clue what that mark actually is.
Erm...to use red or blue, you loosen the head, and it automatically comes on in white-red-blue STROBE?!?! - "for your convenience"????
Ok, Sunwayman, listen-up: What you (OK, what "I") want is something comparable to the old SureFire A2.
1. Ditch the blue LED and put in a yellow-green LED. Better yet, put in a pair of red and a pair of yellow green. The YGs should be putting out I'd guess about 1/3 the output of the red LED, given the same drive current, which is good, as 15 lumens is pretty bright when it's pitch black out.
2. Ditch the colored light strobe feature. Seriously, what good is this???? Leave a white locator strobe or SOS if you must, but hide it away. It's useful in the rare instance when it's useful, but I don't want to be wading through it, or trying to avoid it in the UI that I'll be using 99% of the time.
3. Use a neutral-or warm-white, high(er) CRI XM-L2, rather than cool or neutral white. 200 lumens of a decent tint with tolerable color rendering beats 300 lumens of some weird, other-worldly "cool" white.
Now THAT would be a light I'd take into the woods.
markr6
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Messages
- 9,258
Is the N in Falcon supposed to be backwards? LOL. Sorry had to ask...carry on!
Valpo Hawkeye
Flashlight Enthusiast
I second the vote for y/g secondary led's. Had then on an old SF aviator and they are awesome!
carl
Flashlight Enthusiast
What is yellow-green good at visualizing - above and beyond just green itself?
Note to Sunwayman: please no blinking colored leds or blue which almost nobody ever uses.
No white strobe, but white beacon is ok.
Note to Sunwayman: please no blinking colored leds or blue which almost nobody ever uses.
No white strobe, but white beacon is ok.
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