Modifying a Sipik Clone

I have a couple sipik clones laying around the house. More importantly one. That doesn't turn on. It's not the switch so it has to be something to do with the driver. I want a new project for myself and thought it would be cool to remove the LED/Driver and replace it with an XM-L2.

Has anyone done this before? What am I getting into. And, if you have done this before what parts did you use?

They come apart pretty easily, just unscrew the head into 2 pieces and then unscrew the pill from the front. You'll need a new mcpcb for the xml led and a new driver. It is smaller than 17mm, but I forgot the exact size. Pretty easy mod if you can solder.

I've swapped drivers and emitter on Sipik 68s before.

The pill accepts a (I think) 15mm driver and 16mm star. If you file down the edges of a 17mm Nangj 105c and use arctic alumina to glue it on the end of the pill it will fit. This allows you to crank up the power to 3.04 amps. Apply solder braid to the edge of the driver and then bend it up alongside the driver for negative contact. The pill will stick out a little more but this doesn't affect the external size of the light and should actually help the beam by increasing output in flood mode.

Get a 16mm star with an XM-L2 emitter on it. For best results use a direct-to-copper star instead of the standard aluminum star (use Noctigon, Sinkpad or the ones from Illumination Supply). Make sure to put thermal grease or thermal compound under the star.

The hardest part with changing the emitter on a zoomie like this is adjusting the focal length in spot mode. If the focal point of the lens isn't right on the emitter die you'll lose throw. Getting it to focus may require adding spacers around the top of the pill threads (I use aluminum strips bent into a "C" shape). This requires a lot of trial and error to get it just right.

To increase the width and output of the flood mode, you'll want to make sure the emitter sits as close to the back of the lens as possible in spot mode. You can do this by adding copper disks below the star, or by filing down the top edges of the pill and possibly the body so the lens can retract further.

Also note: Even if you do all of the above mods perfectly throw will be only moderate (maybe 12-15k lux). Larger die LEDs like the XM-L produce more overall lumens, but have lower surface brightness (lumens per square mm). To get best possible throw, it's better to use an emitter with the highest possible surface brightness, which typically means a small emitter such as the XPE2.

If you use an XML you'll get a great flood mode with intermediate throw. In spot mode, the image of the die will be about 4x bigger than with the default XRE led, but not quite as bright.

Difficulty of this mod:
Easy - if you just swap in a new 15mm driver and emitter on a 16mm star.... but it's almost certain that the die image will not be focused in spot mode.
Intermediate - if you want to do it right and make sure the die image is focused in spot mode.

schizeckinosy said:

They come apart pretty easily, just unscrew the head into 2 pieces and then unscrew the pill from the front. You'll need a new mcpcb for the xml led and a new driver. It is smaller than 17mm, but I forgot the exact size. Pretty easy mod if you can solder.

Click to expand...

To disassemble:
1. Unscrew and remove the bezel and lens.
2. Insert needle-nose pliers into the 2 slots on the pill around the emitter. Then unscrew the pill and remove it from the front of the light.
3. You can probably disassemble the pill with a screwdriver and dental pick tool. But the way I usually do it is to get a pot of boiling water and a pot of ice water. Immerse the pill in 1 pot, then immediately take it out and immerse it in the other pot. Repeat at 15 second intervals. Thermal shock should cause the pill to pop apart and disassemble itself.

Sipik clones are fun to mod and cheap enough that if you screw up it's no big loss. Have fun and happy modding!!!!

Thanks guys sounds good I'll update on my progress soon