I had my ff5 open just to see what was inside. It definitely seams like daunting task.
I had my ff5 open just to see what was inside. It definitely seams like daunting task.
Flashlights: R90TS, Maxtoch Xsword L2K LEP, K75vn, Fire Fox FF-5 3400k, Fire Fox FF-5 6000K, Wowtac A4, K1VN90, Weben L60, Fenix LD42, W10VN, BLF 18650 flashlight, UVBEAST V3, LM10VN90, Brandless LEP, F21VN, E10VN VNX2 W2.1, Nitcore TIP SE
The lamp change is not too bad. The most difficult part for me was while inserting the open frame type ballast into the head, the two 28 awg switch wires have to be started down and fished down a very deep hole. There's barely enough wire length to see them enter the hole. Once down, the tiny hole in the head and the tiny hole in the bottom plate of the ballast must be perfectly aligned or you'll chop the wires when securing the ballast down. Then, the switch wires at the switch mounting hole must be cut very short because there is no way to push any excess "working" wire length back into the hole so you can seat the switch chip but...and you need extra wire length to make the very tiny solder connections. Part of the problem is that my manual dexterity is not what it was at 40. The issue with the replacement lamps will be that the electrode wire that goes thru the ceramic base is significantly shorter than the electrode on the lamp that came with the light. On the bottom side of the ceramic base, there is a grove from center point extending out the outer diameter. The electrode is designed to protrude from the hole, immediately bend in the grove and extend to the outer diameter. Then it is bent back on itself 180 degrees and extends all the way across the diameter of the ceramic base. I think there is only enough electrode to make the initial bend in the groove to the outer diameter and then maybe only 25% to 30% of the way across the entire diameter. Will this matter? I don't know, maybe not. I used my original lamp, not my spare. The actual electrical connection relies only on the wire with copper puck soldered on the end from the ballast being pushed up against the electrode and it is held in with a doughnut of hard silicone rubber forced up into the ceramic base. There is no actual positive connection, just friction by the doughnut. No Pun intended there. By the way, all replacement lamps are 4300K, no 6000K's (5500K)
Lamp Change: With special 3-hump tool, Unscrew the bezel. Lift out the front glass and pull the reflector out as far as the power wire will allow. Remove the kapstan tape around the ceramic base. Unscrew the ring nut securing the ceramic base to the reflector. Remove the two tiny clips holding the lamp top electrode and power return wires in a groove cut into the reflector. Back the bulb and base out of the reflector while maneuvering the top lamp electrode out of the reflector hole at the same time. The lamp bottom quartz stem just floats in the larger ceramic base, only the electrode going thru the hole and bending in the groove holds it somewhat in-place. Reverse to install.
Much as I really enjoy this type of work, I would not do it regularly for others who wanted it done. Once is enough for fun.
Last edited by BVH; 08-31-2020 at 07:00 PM.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Wow. Thanks for the details BVH!
Who needs to see the light at the end of the tunnel when you have friends on CPF?
My flashlight videos: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...9TIYcGeuBXa5m0
Memo to self: Do not burn out the FF5 bulb.
I added: "With special 3-Hump tool". Gotta have it or a no-go unless you're ok damaging your bezel.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Flashlights: R90TS, Maxtoch Xsword L2K LEP, K75vn, Fire Fox FF-5 3400k, Fire Fox FF-5 6000K, Wowtac A4, K1VN90, Weben L60, Fenix LD42, W10VN, BLF 18650 flashlight, UVBEAST V3, LM10VN90, Brandless LEP, F21VN, E10VN VNX2 W2.1, Nitcore TIP SE
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
I continue to be impressed with this FF5 for its size. Quite an accomplishment in such a small package.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
I just ordered a FF5! Really looking forward the the 100 watt output. I have an FF3 and FF4 that are just fantastic lights. I have used them both hundreds of times through the years. I take them out for night snowshoe hikes and fire them up when they're frozen solid with 0 issues.
Long ago i had a Wolf Eyes 24 watt HID that I used for night hikes but the ballast was always dying or the bulb would explode. That was interesting to see because what ever was in the bulb ate off the coating on the reflector in about 15 seconds. I was like NNOooo!
So what batteries would you guys recommend for the 100 watt draw of the FF5? I currently use Panasonic NCR18650 with 3400 mAh. Not sure they can handle that much current. Thanks!
Last edited by cchurchi; 11-27-2020 at 10:49 AM.
Who needs to see the light at the end of the tunnel when you have friends on CPF?
My flashlight videos: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...9TIYcGeuBXa5m0
I’ve been using my FF5 every night for a few months. Man do I love this thing... the massive wide beam is just gorgeous and seems to go on forever. My first HID light so I don’t profess to be an expert but I’d take it over my Imalent MS18 in a heartbeat!
Can’t wait for a 1,000 watt FF6 (:
So the link in post #5 is for Neals Gadgets? If I go directly to Neals Gadgets and do a search for Firefox the only thing that comes up are the accessories or am I missing something?
Bob
Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.
https://www.nealsgadgets.com/product...hid-flashlight
Look at the top of the page for any discount codes
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Thanks Bob. Just out of curiosity, why did you sell your FF5's? I value your opinion on these and other lights as you are very knowledgeable on the operation and function of HID lights.
Thanks for the link. Haven't decided if I'm going to order one or not.
Bob
Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.
I wonder if there is a technical reason for not implementing a low mode, so that it has, say, 10W, 30W, and 100W. This would be a lot more practical, imho
I have very little use for any of my lights other than my pocket-carry EDC. I wish it wasn't that way because I love using them. When the latest and greatest are introduced, I thoroughly enjoy picking one up just to see what it can do. A few hours playing and my needs are taken care of. Time to let them go to someone who will use them. Plus, when "your" used to being around the real heavy iron and seeing what they can do, the handhelds obviously don't compare in performance. That is a downside to having the heavy iron. It's more difficult to be impressed. I will say the FF5 is a great performer and for a very reasonable price even with no discount.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Yes there is, about 30-40 watts is the normal bottom end of this technology (depending on the bulb and electronics) with a bulb that could be run in the 70 to 100 Watt range. Can't reliably sustain an arc for long bulb life down below that. We make dual wattage ballasts and have played with tri power levels too. As an example it could be 40/60/80W. Philips and Osram have made 25 watts HID bulb products but you would not want to run it very much higher than 40 watts.
It's been my edc for a few years so I think it's a 4-7's Mini123 with Turbo head by Vinh in Stainless. The 123 in the std and this version have been my EDC's since they came out years ago. I think this one does 1200 or 1500 Lumens but rarely use that level. The turbo head throws a very long beam this this size of light.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Bob
Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.
Vinhs mod:
https://skylumen.com/products/fourse...30269019521047
Factory link:
https://darksucks.com/collections/fo...i-turbo-mk-iii
Mine is the older version of the Goliath with White1 spec on Vinhs page. I've found over the many years that I don't care for a push button EDC. I like the twisty switch.
Last edited by BVH; 12-11-2020 at 10:12 AM.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Bob
Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.
I think there's good flood along with the prominent hot spot at distance. If you want more flood than throw, I'd get the non-turbo head and higher Lumen/less mcd led, I think it was 1200 Lumens IIRC.
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Syniosbeam by Enderman
Thanks Bob. I won't hijack this thread any more. Still deciding on buying the FF5.
Bob
Polarion PH50 & Night Reaper, AE Xenide 20w, POB 35W, SL Scorpion, SL-35X, POB 55W, Jet Beam Jet-1, DEFT HO, "X", & EDC LR, REV Victor Enthusiast, MULE 35/80W HID, Maxa Beam MBS-410.
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