4C maglite - MT-G2 build questions

I have a couple of incan 4C Maglite's that I would like to build into reasonably good lights for every day use. My wife is a security guard who often works at night, so she needs a good light.

-- B3Flex driver
-- MT-G2 on a Noctigon
-- heat sinking of some kind...?
-- http://www.ledil.com/node/2/p/5694
-- KingKong unprotected 26650 cells...?
-- Borofloat lens
-- Switch mod or different switch...?

A rock solid charger that can do 3x26650 cells at a time, and is safe if I should forget and leave the cells charging overnight...?

I would like to land approximately in the realm of 1000 OTF lumen's, extended run time. I figure anything over about 700 Lumen's would probably be ok. Looking for advice, and thoughts on how to proceed. I am new to building lights, but reasonably good with my hands. I do have a multimeter, and know how to use it. The above parts list is just my initial research, I am very much open to ideas here.

Thanks much!
Gary

lol, i build almost same light
4c, mtg2 deep led reflector, b3flex driver, but i use 18650 cells. i mounted led on sinkpad2 star, and than on a aluminium puck, 1\2 inch thick. used setscrew to fix it in place, the driver is glued to other side of heatsink, so drivers thremal sensor can see how hot the light gets, and trim output. switch i had to mod to momentary action, and i also had to flip it around to allow more room for deep reflector.
beam was not uniformed so i used antireflective film on the lens to make in uniform, pbly lost some throw, but at 2000+lm it still throw far. you do not need borofloat glass, it does not get hot at all, regular plactic will do just fine.

Thanks guys... the 4x cell count was a typo! Was not sure if the 26650 cells would fit the bore or not... hmm, prefer to not have to bore it. I would guess 18650s would work pretty well. Will have to think about this. If I were to decide to have to have it bored for the 26650 cells, and have the tail-spring mod done, any recommendations on who does such work?

alpg88,
Did you use the 6v or the 9v emitter? I was wondering if there would be enough voltage to stay in regulation or not when voltage sag is taken into account.

Any chargers you guys can recommend? Need something that is close to bullet proof, and prefer 4x (do they even have a 3x?) cell charge.

Thanks for the feedback!

6v emiter. it stays in regulation untill battery protection kicks in

Did you use Old Lumens switch mod? Wondering which way might be best for the switch. What specific batteries do you use, and what is the approximate run time? I see so many different ones. Which aluminium puck? Details would be much appreciated sir!

Thank you!,
Gary

i moded switch myself. read this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...mod-(8-brightness-levels)&p=618553#post618553, it shows how to mod D switch for momentary action, needed for b3flex driver. C switch s a bit different outside, but works same way, same things need to be done for C switch as for D. i used simple aluminum cylinder 1\2 inch thick and diameter same as inside diameter of mag c tube, i drilled holes and cut threads, with screws i mounted the led, and driver was glued on the other side of the heatsink. you need to get a spacer for b3flex driver, taskled sells them. afer all that is done i drilled 7\64 hole in mag tube where the heatsink\puck will be, and cut 6\32 thread, i used setscrew to hold heatsink\led \driver in place. i use tenergy 2600 cells, runtime i never measured, it depends on setting, tailcap draw 2A, so in theory on full blast it should run for a bit more than 1 hour, but it wont (or it shouldn't since it will cook the led, drivers thermal cut off should trim output before 1 hour) , do not forget to set drivers heat sensor, by default it is off, i have mine set to 80c, mtg2 on full power really heats mag tube fast, in 15 min it is too hot to hold the light close to its head. unless it is very cold outside. make sure your heatsink is a tight fit in the tube, you need all the surface contact you can get with mtg led.