Sportac Triple XP-G2 + Noctigon Copper + QLITE FET Driver + Sony VTC5 18650 = 9.8A!!!

I've been experimenting with some mods on the Eagletac Sportac Triple XP-G2. I was not at all happy with the single cell output or bluish tint from the factory so I decided to de-dome and put in a QLITE 4.5A driver. The results were great, got rid of the blue tint, tightened the hot spot and output was amazing.

This is the perfect setup IMO, but for the insane crowd here, continue reading....

A few days later, Mountain Electronics started selling a QLITE FET driver that utilizes a FET for 5 levels of brightness, highest output at direct drive. I figured get the FET Driver, and a Noctigon MCPCB. While I was ordering, I threw a couple Sony VTC5 18650's in my cart. The VTC5's are known to produce huge amounts of current.

Well, my parts came today so I got to work on it. The results are 'better' than I ever envisioned, but at the same time they're kinda scary.

I wish I could've taken pics along the way but I was more concerned about getting the project done.

So the final product is as follows:
Sportac Triple XP-G2
De-domed, Re-flowed emitters to a Noctigon Copper board, used Arctic Silver 5 for the board to pill surface
QLITE FET multi mode plus direct drive driver, had the 60sec Turbo Timer flashed to it.
Drilled the optic for trits, still waiting for the trits to arrive
Host is an bored SF M2, Cryos head, McClicky(may need to go ZeroRez)

Result is 5 modes with a 9.8A Turbo measured at the tail using a brass conductor and clamp meter.

If you're thinking about this mod, I ran into a couple issues. The Factory Sportac Optic standoffs are larger in diameter than the holes in the Noctigon. I re-drilled the Noctigon standoff holes. Maybe a Carclo would work?? Also, the Noctigon is much thicker, causing the optic to protrude further out to where you can barely screw the retaining ring down, but it works fine nonetheless.

I'm sure the McClicky is the limiting factor here therefore I'm not expecting 9.8A while the light is assembled. With that said this is the brightest light I've ever owned, with a nice hot spot and great tint.

I'll keep you updated, let you know when anything goes poof!

You might consider getting a Cryos Z32 bezel to let more periphery light out. Your setup sounds seriously fun.

All that talk and no beam shots Nice work!

stewdogg said:

All that talk and no beam shots Nice work!

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Lol! Promise to post beam shots tonight.

Finally took some beam shots and I apologize for my lack of knowledge and skill of photography. I'm not sure if I set my Camera up properly for beam shots, so any advice on camera setup would be welcomed.
Let me know if you want any other types of beam shots.

Wall shots are taken from 6ft
Tree is a 30ft, House across the street is 100ft

SF 6P XM-L2 QLITE 4.5A driver, Dedomed, Smooth Reflector, McClicky


FiveMega 2x18650 host Cryos Bezel, Vinhnguyen MT-G2 3.8A Drop-in, OP Reflector, SF Twisty


SF M2 Cryos Bezel, Sportac Triple XP-G2 Dedomed, QLITE FET w/ Direct Drive, McClicky


SF 6P XM-L2 QLITE 4.5A driver, Dedomed, Smooth Reflector, McClicky


FiveMega 2x18650 host Cryos Bezel, Vinhnguyen MT-G2 3.8A Drop-in, OP Reflector, SF Twisty


SF M2 Cryos Bezel, Sportac Triple XP-G2 Dedomed, QLITE FET w/ Direct Drive, McClicky

KITROBASKIN said:

You might consider getting a Cryos Z32 bezel to let more periphery light out. Your setup sounds seriously fun.

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I originally opted to go with the Z44 Cryos for it's smaller girth. But for spill output and performance you are spot on with the Cryos M2/Z32 suggestion. I may consider it in the future after my bank account recovers a bit:mecry:

RMM is getting himself some nice modded products. Its amazing the light output from a smallish light. Nice mod.

This is pretty cool - I wonder how well a AW IMR 18350 could go with this driver pushing a XP-G2 triple on a Noctigon copper mPCB? Although a bit nutty - this would be a good build for a Tri-EDC with those copper slugs Jeff milled for me.

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:

This is pretty cool - I wonder how well a AW IMR 18350 could go with this driver pushing a XP-G2 triple on a Noctigon copper mPCB? Although a bit nutty - this would be a good build for a Tri-EDC with those copper slugs Jeff milled for me.

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I wish I could test that for you, I don't currently have any 18350's on hand though.


Although the Sportac is easy to mod and fairly inexpensive, I think the way to go is a solid copper blank that would accommodate the Copper Triple PCB and Carclo. I've seen some very nice ones here in a couple for sale threads, but they don't seem to be currently available.

Does anyone know where to get one for a decent price right now?

If not, does anyone know how to make your own Copper P60 blank without a lathe or mill, just using common hardware store parts?

Nice work on the beam shots they look great!So, when are you going to start offering the modded Sportac Boss Triple to the forum?

stewdogg said:

Nice work on the beam shots they look great!So, when are you going to start offering the modded Sportac Boss Triple to the forum?

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Lol, I like the Sound of that! 'Sportac Boss Edition' If I ever do, you get naming royalties for sure!
I doubt I would make these to sell, my modding skills are at best intermediate. Maybe one day I can really mod "Like a Boss"

great work man!

Very cool mod, nicely done!

I just finished another modded Sportac Triple. This one pulls 10.52 amps!

This time around, I used some Nichia 219B's from Kaidomain(NVSL219B-E R85 B220), keep in mind that the Sportac Triple Nichia comes with 219A's. I wanted to try these out since they are supposed to be more efficient as far as output. They are supposed to be 4500k, but they are slightly blue to me, so I dedomed them. Now they are nice and warm. Also I find the 219A's to have great tint with their domes in tact.

On a side note, I'm red/green color blind and I wonder if I am more sensitive to blue tint than most people.

I ordered another QFET from Mountain Electronics, Now they offer "off time" mode memory, which I think is much easier to operate. The QFET also came with a longer contact spring and Copper Braid! I was very happy to see this and this may be why it can draw more current.

Another thing I did differently is use a 'real' Carclo 10507 optic and it fits perfectly in the Sportac even with the thicker Noctigon Copper PCB. Note the first Sportac I modded, I used the factory optic and had to hone out the 3 holes in the Noctigon AND couldn't get the optic retaining ring to screw all the way down.

Just another observation, Eagletac used a small amount of solder to hold the factory driver in place. This made it a bit more difficult to push it out, I'd say I used about 50lbs of pressure this time.

Sorry no beam shots for now, but I observe the Nichia 219B Dedomed to the be Almost as bright as the XP-G2's. They have a larger hot spot, with a very smooth Corona transition. In my opinion it is a better pattern. This may or may not be due to difference in optics(Carclo vs Eagletac)

I will post beam shots comparing the both of the modded XP-G2 and Nichia 219B Sportac's tonight.

Awesome build Boss. I bet on high you could boil water

Boss said:

I just finished another modded Sportac Triple. This one pulls 10.52 amps!

This time around, I used some Nichia 219B's from Kaidomain(NVSL219B-E R85 B220), keep in mind that the Sportac Triple Nichia comes with 219A's. I wanted to try these out since they are supposed to be more efficient as far as output. They are supposed to be 4500k, but they are slightly blue to me, so I dedomed them. Now they are nice and warm. Also I find the 219A's to have great tint with their domes in tact.

On a side note, I'm red/green color blind and I wonder if I am more sensitive to blue tint than most people.

I ordered another QFET from Mountain Electronics, Now they offer "off time" mode memory, which I think is much easier to operate. The QFET also came with a longer contact spring and Copper Braid! I was very happy to see this and this may be why it can draw more current.

Another thing I did differently is use a 'real' Carclo 10507 optic and it fits perfectly in the Sportac even with the thicker Noctigon Copper PCB. Note the first Sportac I modded, I used the factory optic and had to hone out the 3 holes in the Noctigon AND couldn't get the optic retaining ring to screw all the way down.

Just another observation, Eagletac used a small amount of solder to hold the factory driver in place. This made it a bit more difficult to push it out, I'd say I used about 50lbs of pressure this time.

Sorry no beam shots for now, but I observe the Nichia 219B Dedomed to the be Almost as bright as the XP-G2's. They have a larger hot spot, with a very smooth Corona transition. In my opinion it is a better pattern. This may or may not be due to difference in optics(Carclo vs Eagletac)

I will post beam shots comparing the both of the modded XP-G2 and Nichia 219B Sportac's tonight.

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Congrats on this mod - I've ordered some of the QFET drivers myself but haven't gotten to installing them in anything yet. I was a bit bummed that within a day after I got my order I noticed that they added the "time off" option as I've found the latch time to be quite high on mine. About 5 seconds or so before the level catches.

I am also a little bit on the red/green colorblind side of things and I think that is why I find some of the 4000K neutral tints more pleasing than the cooler ones. I think we are more sensitive to the blue and less to the reds so even partially cool LEDs seem very washed out to us as they have very poor output in the red spectrum.

Oh - my drivers did have the copper braid soldered onto the springs. Nice touch. A good way to make use of a de-soldering braid.

m4a1usr said:

Awesome build Boss. I bet on high you could boil water

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Lol, thanks M4A1!

These may not be appropriate for daily drivers, but having the lower modes on these FET's make them somewhat useable and have direct drive for those occasions where you want to show off your Lumanhood

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:

Congrats on this mod - I've ordered some of the QFET drivers myself but haven't gotten to installing them in anything yet.

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When you get around to using them, Keep an eye out for any flickering on the low modes.

My 'older style' FET started flickering on the lowest mode only. I've contacted Mountian Electronics about this and they said they would take care of it if it's defective, they are a class act over there. But for now, I'm gonna attempt to diagnose it.

I've tried cleaning all my connections, but it still flickers. I'm gonna pull the driver and inspect the board and reflow anything that looks suspect.

holy crap! very nice setup!

if you get some bad voltage drop with a mcclicky you could always try a zero rez

jmpaul320 said:

holy crap! very nice setup!

if you get some bad voltage drop with a mcclicky you could always try a zero rez

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I agree, Zero Rez would let this setup work to it's potential. I should have one coming very soon.