Has anyone used a RAM tail switch in their LS?

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adimag

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I know that there is an on going discussion about the Kroll switch on the Arc-LS's and I have read most if not all of the posts on them. It seems as if there is a love-hate thing with the Kroll switch. I have only recently purchased an Arc-LSL that was on sale, but have not gotten to use it yet since the Misses will not let me have it until Christmas, I am somewhat torn since I do not have the experience with the Kroll. Anyway, I saw on Mr.Bulks site that he replaced the stock Kroll with a RAM Instruments tail switch. Has anyone else done this to their LS? Have you found it more reliable than the Kroll? Does it function like the Kroll (on, off, momentary)? Does it maintain the water resistance of the LS? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gifSorry for all the newbie questions, but any help is greatly appreciated! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

DarkHelmet

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I would not recommend this. I just went and got out my LS and a Ram switch, only to find that the switch dosen't even fit properly. Even if it does fit, I found the Ram to have even more problems than the kroll. When used on a minim*g, water leaks at the switch and there is more flickering while on than with a kroll. You also lose momentary, as the ram turns on on the up-stroke after it is clicked down. I find the kroll to be a decent switch, and i have used my LS as a caving light as well as an EDC. The kroll has held up thus far.

Hope this helps,
Chris
 

jerry1

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I have had success in using the RAM switch on my LS models only after destroying a couple of them figuring out why they would not fit. If you want a RAM switch to fit your LS consistently you need to run a 5/8-28 straight thread die over the threads since they seem to be tapered. Tapered threads may work in a MiniMag, but they will NOT work in an ARC LS. If you decide to try this, do not force the thread cutting by holding the switch in a pair of pliers since the metal thread portion is just glued on to the black plastic switch body and more than hand held twisting will break the bond.
I use a RAM switch in my edc LS and have addressed the water resistance issue by using the rubber boot from a Kroll switch.

Just my 2¢ worth.
Jerry
 

adimag

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Thanks for the input guys!! I think I will stick with the Kroll since there is a lifetime replacement from Arc. Asking about the RAM was just a case of inexperience and seeing something different.

Thanks Again!
 

Roy

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You mean like this?

ram.jpg
 

adimag

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Yes Roy, that is exactly what my questions were aimed at. How has it worked for you and what is your opinion about theb RAM vs. the Kroll tail switch?
 

Roy

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I no longer have the ARC, but I do remember that the RAM Switch is VERY sensit1ve! Would not want to carry it loose in a pocket or purse.
 

jerry1

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I purchased all of mine at Fry's Electronics in the maglight accessories area.

Remember, most of these will not screw all the way into an LS without jamming or galling because of the tapered threads. The water resistance and touchy switch action issues can be minimized by using the rubber boot from a Kroll switch installed over the entire RAM body. you wind up with a slightly lower profile and softer switch action than a Kroll.

About $6 for the switch.
About $20 for a 5/8-28 straight thread die.
 
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