What LED would fit 1.4" ID x 2.8" high lighthead?

I am converting my dive light from HID to LED.

The light head's interior dimensions are:

1.4" I.D.
2.8" high

There is currently a reed switch or hall sensor being used to run the power switch for the HID.

Thanks!!!

Andrew

BTW the battery source will be in a different compartment

No one, huh? Is this a viable way to go...find an LED module [LED, driver, reflector] and hook it up to the existing HID PCBA to get power to the LED module?

Well your in luck if you want to do an LED conversion. 1.4 inches is basically 35mm. DealExtreme has a 35mm reflector that could work in your application. I use that very reflector for my Surefire M3/Z46 LED conversions. You will need to rethread the reflector since it has the wrong threads for most commonly available pills. But I have a tap so we could work something out. Put in a driver of your choice and an XML sized LED and your ready to go.

m4a1usr said:

Well your in luck if you want to do an LED conversion. 1.4 inches is basically 35mm. DealExtreme has a 35mm reflector that could work in your application. I use that very reflector for my Surefire M3/Z46 LED conversions. You will need to rethread the reflector since it has the wrong threads for most commonly available pills. But I have a tap so we could work something out. Put in a driver of your choice and an XML sized LED and your ready to go.

Click to expand...

Woo hoo!! Thank you sooooo much m4a1usr! You are very kind!!

So, my lighthead is not threaded where the light head components are at. It is just an empty, smooth cargo bay [so to speak]. Unless the threading you speak of is not for the light head....what is the "pill"?

What should one consider for selecting a driver? Are there available "packages" of LED/Drivers around that are matched for certain voltages or outputs?

Thanks!!

Here is the "cargo bay" w convert to LED eventually. The inside of the HID light head. I tested the receptacles for the HID bulb and it was zero, flat, no voltage. I then waved a strong magnet over the switch and got no response. Are the receptacles on an HID polarized? You can also see the HID Ballast.

Any good ideas about how to more easily remove the metal retainer clips holding the different components in place? Or just keeeeeep trying? I have done it once before!

Picture of the On/Off switch. Has a lock screw [black], and is a reed switch/hall sensor so there is no holes in the housing for the switch. Operated by magnetic force I hope that reed switch is not bad...anyone suggest where to get a new one if need be?



The manual

The whole kit (came with all new charger, car charger, attachment hardware for mounting to a backplate, etc, all in sealed bags after the refurbishing from OMS according to the person I bought it from)


How does one test HID ballast?

I am worried that perhaps the ballast itself is actually in the battery compartment, and only the high voltage ignitor is in the head. Anybody else own this light have some thoughts on this? That's an awfully thick cable for just some low voltage DC power...

THE REED SWITCH:


THE PCBA: Anyone know what the components are and how to test them? I see a FET...


Here is the whole setup in the light head. The ballast is in the light head, not the batt compartment bshanahan14rulz...I think you are referring to the big black "cable" between the batt compartment canister and the light head...that is not a cable, just a scuba low pressure inflator hose used as a pressure resistant housing for the cable from the battery to the light head.

Edit:my guess is that the large white component is the thermal protection sensor.

grind that reflector to your spec http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-smooth-flashlight-reflector-silver-108911#.U49WwPl_tTY

in combination with SST-50 and driver at 5A -6A (http://www.taskled.com/techh6cc.shtml)
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you can modify that kit to fit your needs

http://www.dx.com/p/x8-xm-lt6-1000l...lver-golden-7-0-8-4v-2-8a-126090#.U49Yifl_tTY

you will find space ;-))

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PS: keep all your posts in one pack only

HIDs don't need thermal protection , white thing is probably foil capacitor to reduce back RF interference from ballast ignitior at start ,that might cause FET ''jitter''

lucca brassi said:

grind that reflector to your spec http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-smooth-flashlight-reflector-silver-108911#.U49WwPl_tTY

in combination with SST-50 and driver at 5A -6A (http://www.taskled.com/techh6cc.shtml)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
you can modify that kit to fit your needs

http://www.dx.com/p/x8-xm-lt6-1000l...lver-golden-7-0-8-4v-2-8a-126090#.U49Yifl_tTY

you will find space ;-))

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PS: keep all your posts in one pack only

HIDs don't need thermal protection , white thing is probably foil capacitor to reduce back RF interference from ballast ignitior at start ,that might cause FET ''jitter''

Click to expand...

Thank you, lucca brassi!!

I am not sure about the driver you linked to as it says to not use it near a reed switch or hall sensor, which, my light uses one to turn on/off.

Would it just be easier to buy, the modify the drop in module as in your last link? It does not have a diver tho it looks like to me....

Thank you again for your reply!!

In any way you have to do some handwork

big + , is deep reflector for both cases
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switch as it is may stay untouched , just re-wire hid ballast with driver (red/black wires in the same way goes to the LED driver)

and protect PCB from short circuits to back lighthead wall. Also - resolder all tin connections (dont like turbid tin solder spot )
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point is that you need reflector + led base and place for driver ( not sure , but i think that can be drop- in cut down just after ends aluminium reflector part on brass part I think that will drop- in in that case long arround 60 mm )



probably you don't want original build in driver with 5 modes , and you have to replace it with single mode and very low profile

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17mm-CREE-1...ight-Driver-2-8A-CC-Single-Mode-/130891676949

http://www.dx.com/p/sst-50-3-mode-8...le-with-textured-reflector-36029#.U4-OOnlOWUk

How about this one?

Smooth reflector or textured? It will be a dive light in low-light/murky water.

If I use your driver, lucca brassi, then I just need to step down my battery voltage (~12V) down to the 4.2V max that your ebay driver takes, right?
?

I think that your suggested drop in would made to wide corona , + you have to connect thermally drop-in with enclosure

(I have many similar reflectors at home )

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sorry for driver error ,that would be better . Now you have to decide which led you would drive (cree needs 3,8V*3A =11,4W + driver )

CREE XML-U2 (I think that it is ideal for replacement ) then (have to order 3A good is low profile 8 mm )
http://pcb-components.de/index.php?...category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64

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or SST-50 (need bigger pack , could be driven over 5A but also have more bright light) in that case (sst needs 3,8V*5A = 19W +driver( - double HID consumption )
http://www.taskled.com/techh6cc.shtml ( thats needs at least 8V-12V and Ah ) )

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Maybe in that row is also time to switch NiMh with stronger Lithium pack with 2S - 7,4V (or 2S2P)
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PS : how thick are walls of your lighthead (you need 1,57''-1,4''= 0,17'' (4,318 mm on diameter ) what mean 2,15 mm on radius

I'm sure you could put lighthead in lathe and take inside 1,6 mm and also reflector 0,50mm (or some other ratio ) ; (0,5 space for

tight fit)

Excellent advice, Lucca brassi!

I am hoping for a solution that does not include putting the light head on a lathe, yet.

I am currently running a Li-Ion battery pack: ~12V, 6-AA size batteries in a pack, or 18650 looking size.

How about this combo then with my current battery above and housing:

Driver
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19mm-Constant-Current-3A-LED-Flashlight-Driver-3-Modes-5-5-12v-P7-MCE-XM-L-XML-/221398543006?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item338c61aa9e

Module
http://www.dx.com/p/cree-xm-l-t6-3840lm-3-mode-drop-in-module-for-26-5mm-flashlight-silver-164727#.U5DWH3lOWUk


I would have, then, to just connect up the following setup/parts:

Batt -->Reed On/Off switch-->12V input driver 2.8A output-->XML LED module.

Does that sound right? Anyone?

In that case you have to open drop in and replace existing driver with your own from ebay.

I think you will not like that beam very much , but it is also part of learning curve.

What do you mean....why would I not like that beam very much?

You mean, swap out the driver in the drop in module?