Disassembling Zebralight w/o damage.

durallymax

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I purchased an H600w Zebralight a little over a year ago. After a week or two it started getting pretty finnicky and quit before I got to use it for a month. I wasn't a heavy user at the time. Talked with Zebralight and they said the batteries were likely the issue, they said to buy some batteries from them first and try them but that the board could be damaged from using too long of a battery already. I didn't look into it much more after that, just set it to the side. Got busy with a lot of other stuff and forgot about it. Decided to try getting it working a few months ago and realized the batteries I had were fine and shorter than the specs allowed. Tried all of the tricks, even waiting for a solar eclipse while pointing the light north and clicking it on at midnight. Nothing would get it to work, different batteries did nothing either so I set it to the side again and ordered an H602w.

The H602w is more what I need for everyday work as a mechanic anyways, the flood with nuetral color and no hotspot is great for up close work. Obviously the trade off to that is barely being able to see the dog at the end of its leash at night. I figured i'd try to fix the H600w for use when outdoors and not working. I searched and read what I could find about disassembling these things. Most of the threads were older models, a few more closely related to the H600 but the general consensus was you cannot/shouldn't disassemble one. If you decide to disassemble one you have to damage something, the best way is to break the glass in order to remove the retaining ring/bezel. With a link to a new piece of glass for a dollar or so I wasn't worried, but I hate going through everything to order stuff and waiting even though I am in no hurry and probably will not have this thing working for another year yet. I know absolutely nothing about flashlight modding or disassembly, just like new challenges and figuring out how to take things apart. I was surprised how easy this was and that I didn't find a thread somewhere mentioning how to do it, makes me think I must have screwed something up, but here's how I disassembled my H600w without so much as a scratch. I can't confirm what other models this will work on, but I would assume a number of similar generation Zebralights would be similar.


You will need a pick, a small slotted screwdriver and a #0 phillips.

1. Take battery out, leave cap off. You will need it off later to remove the guts.

2. Using the tool of your choice, get underneath the bezel for the switch. Be careful not to tear rubber, but there is a lot of room to slide a sharp object in there. I use an o ring pick like you can get at any store. Needs some beef to it but needs to be slim. Work your way around until it pops out. Mine came out pretty easy but it did take some force to get it moving.



3. Next you will be removing the glass and bezel without touching them. Underneath the rubber is the switch and its "hole". Theres two wires soldered to it, carefully work the switch towards the lens side of the light so you have room to slip your slotted driver under it. You should see one of the brass mounting screws from the side as well as the emitter and base of the reflector. What I did was use the screw as a fulcrum and put pressure on the reflector making sure I didn't hit the emitter. Using the screw as a fulcrum ensures nothing will be damaged underneath. Be ready to catch it or put some tape across it to catch the lens and bezel. My bezel shot off and glass stayed stuck to reflector with o ring.



4. The last step is pretty simple, remove the two screws using a phillips. The guts all come out through the battery tube so start by loosening up the brain board. Mine had a little bit of stuff on it, I know some others differ, My H602w looked a lot different from the battery side. Once you get it sliding free, help the switch through its hole and then the entire works will slide out with ease.








Somebody tell me what I did wrong, or that I missed a thread somewhere. Seemed too easy, maybe many other models are harder. For those looking to do this, it was as easy as it looks. I have never messed with a flashlight before. I work on heavy equipment for the most part and while I'm not a caveman, finesse is something I use much less of in a day than many other professions. Just take your time and if it doesn't feel right don't force it.


I guess this leaves my question now, what do I mod this with and/or what should I be testing to figure out why it doesn't work. I could probably take the time to get it figured out but if somebody else has been into one I see no need to do the work twice.


Thanks in advance.
 

LEDburn

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I purchased an H600w Zebralight a little over a year ago. After a week or two it started getting pretty finnicky and quit before I got to use it for a month.

Cheers for sharing the info on disassembly.

I don't quite understand what went wrong and why you simply didn't just return it? Did it just die?

As far as I am aware, somewhat experienced modders have declared the newer ZL's unmoddable due to excessive risk of damaging integral components in the process. For these same reasons, I doubt you'll be able to 'fix' it, if fixing is what it requires.

Good luck in any case..
 

durallymax

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I don't know what went wrong. I bought the light just before we got busy in fields and such. I was going to return it but ZL wouldn't until I bought batteries from them and tried them first. I didn't feel like dealing with all of the hassle at that time, wasn't a high priority. Things dont slow down much until winter and then I start thinking again. Basically forgot about it until then, it rolled around in my toolbox but I never did anything about it.
 

Derek Dean

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Yep, mark me as impressed as well, not only for getting it all apart, but for taking the time to document and present your findings in such a clear and concise manner. Well done.

Now, I'm not a modder, but I've worked on other electronic stuff for years, and it seems to me your first step would be to hook a battery up to that out-of-body unit and confirm that it's still not working. I've had countless projects that started working again just by virtue of me having gone in and fiddled around with stuff. Might be a bad solder joint, loose wire, etc.

If you don't get any results from that, I'd guess the next step would be to use a multimeter and isolate each part and check for continuity. For instance, place the multimeter across the tail switch and verify that the switch is working, then check that power is getting from the positive contact (spring) to the LED, etc.

In any case, thanks for sharing your work, and good luck.
 

jabe1

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Besides a component fault on the board. I'd bet on a bad ground through the body to the electronics.
if it works on the bench, it's repairable. Normally, I would say just get a new, simple driver, but it needs to be triggered electronically in order to utilize the factory switch.
 

durallymax

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I originally used an ultrafire 18650 that measured shorter than Zebralights limit. Later I tried panasonic unprotected 18650's with no luck.

The light does not run on the bench for me. The light itself will if you bypass everything, but otherwise I can't get anything. Have 3.75v coming from battery, 0.84v going to switch, drops when switch is pushed. Switch when pushed reads 1 ohm. For some reason there is 0.5v at the positive side of the emitter "board". Ground has good continuity.
 

jabe1

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Board failure. Can you test individual components, or is it too gummed up?
Could be a cold solder joint on the inductor, or One of the IC legs.

good luck. I'd be looking for a replacement driver.
 

Seattle Sparky

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Apr 19, 2014
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I recently replaced my Spark 460N headlamp with h602w, I use it primarily for close up work. It feels almost like day light on max, the only thing to watch out for is blinding other people with it. This has to be the highest ratio of size/output flashlight that I own. I use NCR18650b cells with it, some other 18650 I have wouldn't work on highest setting, tripping protection that requires removing a battery to reset. I am glad it's got PID, it can get hot quick, for example on max it will burn your hand if you press it against the lens for 10 sec.
 

durallymax

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Jan 4, 2013
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Board failure. Can you test individual components, or is it too gummed up?
Could be a cold solder joint on the inductor, or One of the IC legs.

good luck. I'd be looking for a replacement driver.

I'm not too good with these little things, bigger stuff is okay but when I need my magnifier it gets tricky. I'll post a picture up. The grey stuff came off no problem, theres a blob of red in the center though that does not come off easily.

I recently replaced my Spark 460N headlamp with h602w, I use it primarily for close up work. It feels almost like day light on max, the only thing to watch out for is blinding other people with it. This has to be the highest ratio of size/output flashlight that I own. I use NCR18650b cells with it, some other 18650 I have wouldn't work on highest setting, tripping protection that requires removing a battery to reset. I am glad it's got PID, it can get hot quick, for example on max it will burn your hand if you press it against the lens for 10 sec.

I use NCR18650B Panasonics in mine. It does get plenty hot, never notice any heat on my head but if I bump it with my hand or arm or something while working you will feel it, not enough to leave a burn mark instantly, but enough to make you jump.
 

ChibiM

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I'm actually after one of this rubber switch covers.. anyone knows where to get them? It's for my Spark SF 5, but it looks almost the same.
Spark was going to send me a replacement light a long time ago, but it never arrived.
So if anyone knows where to get o e of those rubber covers, feel free to PM me or tell the shopname here without the web link.
My Spark had a few issues, therefore they allowed me to replace it.. but I don't think it will ever arrive. Therefore I just want to replace my rubber boot.
 
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