Component specifications, replacement parts & repair guides

IsaacL

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Attn: READ ME

This thread is a consolidated source of information regarding component specifications, replacement parts, mods, and self-repairs for the SST-50/XM-L EDC/Tri-EDC/Knurly EDC flashlights. It has been confirmed with near certainty that Esslinger was Mac's source for lenses and gaskets. Parts linked below fit the Tri-EDC but should be compatible with the other lights listed above.

Replacement parts*


Weight


Modders (members who have worked on Mac's lights or created custom parts)

  • Flucero28 (LE programming/upgrades)
  • Vinhnguyen54 (LE upgrades)
  • ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (complete LE's/upgrades)
  • Extremescramble (complete LE's/programming/upgrades)
  • Jeff Hanko (machining and trits)
  • Precisionworks (bore for 18mm cells)
  • Thatspec & Gonefishing (drilled Carclo optics for trits)
  • Gunga (custom glow stickers)
  • Dr.Jones (custom drivers)
  • Mattaus (custom drivers)
  • Prometheus Lights (17mm Icarus driver)
  • Mcbrat (Tri-EDC/conversion LE's and retention rings)
  • PhotonFanatic (retention rings)

Original Tri-EDC prices

  • Titanium clip option - $29
  • Aluminum - $199
  • Brass - $249
  • Copper - $349
  • Titanium - $349
  • Chad Nichols Stainless Steel Damascus - $799

Tri-EDC output specs (final gen, cool tint XP-G2, 2.8A driver, AW IMR 18350 700mAh)


  • Low - 47.6 lumens - 26 hours
  • Medium - 273 lumens - 102 minutes
  • High - 838 lumens - 8 minutes

References


*The dimensions for these parts are directly from Mac
**Please note that the watch gaskets come in packages of three
***A number of people here make replacement light engines for the Tri-EDC and Mcbrat produced a triple conversion pill for the SST-50/XM-L EDC

Disclaimer: I am not a spokesperson for Mac nor do I have any inside information or ongoing communication with him. All the information presented is community-sourced with the exception of personal emails between myself and Mac and/or between other members and Mac. Also, I am not a lawyer and this is not legal advice.
 
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IsaacL

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Re: Component specifications & replacement parts

This a guide I put together for a member here to help troubleshoot the known "flickering problem." I fixed my own Tri-EDC this way. Please note that in most cases the issue is caused by a worn out McClicky Switch. The advice below is based on my own experience, input from other members, posts from Mac, and from various threads located in this forum. In other words, I've already done the research.


Here is my troubleshooting list. I'm not an electrical nor any other kind of engineer so grain of salt and all that. :thumbsup: Hope something here helps.


  • McClicky spring length (Either too long/too short. The original was cut down so I did the same. Seems to have worked)
  • Faulty/worn out McClicky switch (I replaced mine)
  • McClicky needs lube (Silicone spray or Deoxit perhaps. Better to replace it instead)
  • Low quality/old battery (I use the gold standard; AW IMR 18350 cells, which are good for 500+ cycles)
  • Dirty/over-lubed threads* (Took the entire light apart and cleaned all electrical contact locations with alcohol. Deoxit works too. 1) clean the threads and contact plate for the McClicky 2) main body tube threads 3) threads inside the head 4) the light engine threads I just wiped with a dry rag. Only the main body threads got re-lubed. I'm thinking the light engine threads should have gotten a light coating of NyoGel 760G as well to prevent corrosion because they are Al...I dunno.
  • Loose light engine (DO NOT over-tighten. I got lucky because the Tri-EDC uses one of the LED's as a witness mark so you know when to stop cranking. For an SST-50/XM-L EDC, just use the two finger tightening rule.)
  • The solder dab on the engine spring (Mine is all flattened and the end of the spring has broken through. Solder is my worst enemy and I dare not touch it)
  • Faulty/damaged light engine (This is were I enter the magical land of electrical engineers and I know next to nothing)
  • Software bug (Is this even possible? My light was reprogrammed by Flucero28 so it should work, right?)
  • PWM (Not the Lil' Wayne song "PMW". I really don't think this is it. However, in moonlight mode the faintest hint of a flicker is still visible. I believe this is unrelated to the other flickering I was seeing and is just the product of low current and possibly lower frequency PWM)
  • Grounding problem (grounding ring on the driver not making solid contact with the pill)

Listed below are threads about the flickering problem. It almost always appears to be the switch or a loose light engine.
Here
Here
Here
Here
Here

*Too much lubrication is a common problem. Please see the seminal thread on lubricant types and applications.

**Some people are also experiencing a high pitch noise. This is called inductor whine and it is a normal fixture in PWM regulated drivers. It can be reduced or eliminated by changing the frequency on the PWM and the current of a particular level. I recommend seeking professional assistance reprograming/modifying a light engine.
 
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IsaacL

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Re: Component specifications & replacement parts

How to replace the McClicky switch in your SST-50/XM-L EDC/Tri-EDC/Knurly EDC

1) Mentally prepare yourself, relieve your bladder, find a good working area where you won't loose any small parts, and make sure you have good lighting.

2) You'll need a new McClicky switch (a new boot is optional unless yours is torn), a tool to remove the retention ring (I used a plastic coated paperclip but some sort of spanner, dental pick, or fine-point tweezers should work as well), and classical music (to relieve stress and anxiety).

3) Unscrew the head, take the battery out of the light, replace the head.

4) Insert your makeshift tool into the holes of the retention ring (be careful not to mar the plastic), turn counter-clockwise (right is tight, left is loose), set the retention ring and boot off to the side.

5) Insert your makeshift tool into the two holes of the now exposed switch, turn counter-clockwise (use care as the switch may be screwed down tightly), set the old switch off to the side (don't get the new and old one mixed up).

6) Clean the threads and the lip of the battery tube where the switch makes contact. Rubbing alcohol or Deoxit are both fine. That whole area needs to be grease-free.

7) Check the length of the new switch spring against the old spring. The old spring may have been trimmed. If it is shorter you may or may not have to trim and/or bend the new spring to ensure that the battery will fit properly. This is easier than it sounds. Just take it slow and you should be fine.

8) Reverse the process in steps #4 and #5, replace the battery, and function test the light.


How to remove and clean the light engine and head

1) Remove the light engine. Fine-point needle nose pliers will work. I used the paper clip again.

2) Clean the inside of the head with a degreaser like alcohol or Deoxit.

3) Clean the threads on the light engine. I used a dry rag. Be careful if you use degreaser.

4) Clean the threads on the body tube and then apply some lube. Don't use too much.

5) You can use this opportunity to clean the glass lens with a soft microfiber cloth. Don't use paper, it is extremely abrasive.

6) Lightly lubricate the flat rubber gasket. This is important otherwise it will not seal properly.

7) Drop the gasket into the head, followed by the lens, make sure the gasket is centered, screw the light engine in and tighten using the "two-finger tightness" rule (on a Tri-EDC, one LED should line up with a scallop on the head as well as with the pocket clip once the head is screwed onto the body).***

8) Put the light back together and function test.

***Alternatively, you can assemble the LE/head in an upward position. This is good if the Carclo optic wants to fall off the LE in the downward position, as is the case with some third party LE's. First, set the glass window on top the LE assembly. Then insert into the head, without the gasket, threading until the glass has cleared all the threads. Leave an millimeter or so clearance to install the gasket from the front opening of the head. Finally, finish screwing the LE in, making sure that the gasket seats evenly and doesn't bind.
 
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CMAG

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Public service announcement for those who have not yet heard the news: Mac is out of the light business. Please do not try to submit a new order on his website; it may or may not be honored. If you do, it is at your own risk. We have confirmation via email that he is working to complete his backlog of orders and will be moving on to non-flashlight projects in the future. The best way to reach him is by email at [email protected] or [email protected]

This thread is a consolidated source of information regarding component specifications, replacement parts, and self-repairs for the SST-50/XM-L EDC/Tri-EDC/Knurly EDC flashlights. It has all but been confirmed that Esslinger is Mac's source for lenses and gaskets. The parts linked below are for the Tri-EDC but should be compatible with the other lights listed above.

Replacement parts*
Mineral Lens 21.0mm x 2.0mm (these are the official lens dimensions)
Sapphire Lens 21.0mm x 1.5mm (.5mm thinner than spec but 100% compatible)
Watch Crystal Gasket #107 (21.25mm OD 20mm ID .65mm width)**
O-ring size AS #017 (I ordered fluorosilicone o-rings)
McClicky Switch and Boot (Prometheus Lights sells them too)
Tri-EDC Light Engine***

Weight
Tri-EDC Aluminum: 52.3 g
Tri-EDC Titanium: 72.8 g
SST-50/XM-L EDC Aluminum: :shrug:
SST-50/XM-L EDC Titanium: 81.7 g
Knurly EDC Aluminum: :shrug:
Knurly EDC Titanium: :shrug:
AW IMR 18350 700mAh (Red): 22.4g
AW IMR 16340 550mAh (Red): 18g

References
Need some help...
Sapphire lenses
Window dimensions
Mac's EDC Aluminum vs Titanium Weights
Anyone Work on Mac's Lights
Mac's Tri-EDC Light Engines
Tri-EDC Light Engine Upgrade with Programmable Driver

*The dimensions for these parts are directly from Mac.
**Please note that the watch gaskets come in packages of three.
***A number of people here make replacement light engines for the Tri-EDC and a project is currently underway to design a triple pill for the SST-50/XM-L EDC.

Disclaimer: I am not a spokesperson for Mac nor do I have any inside information or ongoing communication with him. All the information presented is community-sourced with the exception of personal emails between myself and Mac and/or between other members and Mac.


:thumbsup: Thanks for putting the time in, good info
 

RUSH FAN

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IsaacL:

Thank you for putting this very informative piece together!
We appreciate this!
 

IsaacL

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gonefishing

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That's great! Thanks for sharing your discovery with us. Mac's lights are turning out to be truly sustainable. All the internal components are user-serviceable and the engine is easily upgraded.

Quick update. The lens I ordered came quickly and fit my Tain Nova perfectly. However, they don't actually stock these lenses, apparently they source them out, and it's not apparent on their website.

This company makes sapphire lenses and has them in stock.

http://www.krysworks-store.com/
 

IsaacL

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I'm gonna guess that the Tain Nova lens is larger than the Tri-EDC. I sent an email to Watch Material and they said they only have 2mm sizes in 25mm diameter and above. Krysworks only sells 2mm in 24mm and above as well. :(
 

gonefishing

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My apologies! I should have paid more attention to the sizes they offered. I'll keep looking!

I'm gonna guess that the Tain Nova lens is larger than the Tri-EDC. I sent an email to Watch Material and they said they only have 2mm sizes in 25mm diameter and above. Krysworks only sells 2mm in 24mm and above as well. :(
 

IsaacL

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No worries. I was just excited that you had found a 2mm replacement!
 

IsaacL

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That's great to know! Thanks for the info Eala. I'm going to add it to the OP.
 

Espionage Studio

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Any info on the clip screws? The one I picked up used recently has a less than perfect screw. Where can one get the fluorosilicone o rings? Thanks!
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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I don't want to get in trouble for hot linking, but check out knifekits and look for 4-40 screws. (I believe that is the size, hopefully someone can confirm)
 

IsaacL

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Any info on the clip screws? The one I picked up used recently has a less than perfect screw. Where can one get the fluorosilicone o rings? Thanks!

Please see the links in post #1, but here it is again (specifically in fluorosilicone).

I don't want to get in trouble for hot linking, but check out knifekits and look for 4-40 screws. (I believe that is the size, hopefully someone can confirm)

Thanks SOYCD, I have no way of checking but will add that to the OP along with an asterix.
 
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